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AEV Dual Sport Lifts - what else is needed

chorky

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Haven't seen much discussion on this one recently unless I missed over something.

It comes with almost everything I believe. But of course adjustable track bar's are good to have.

Other than that though, anything else needed to make it just right?
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Haven't seen much discussion on this one recently unless I missed over something.

It comes with almost everything I believe. But of course adjustable track bar's are good to have.

Other than that though, anything else needed to make it just right?
You might want to consider the AEV geo corrention location brakets - helps get the right caster and pinion angle back. I used these on my Mojave when I did the AEV 2" spacer lift. Didn't do the dual sport because I want to retain the factory shocks and springs.

Also the dual sport kit comes with a rear ajustable track bar. You may want to get one for the front as well. When I put this kit on my JK, I added one to get the "poke" looking the same on both sides in the front. Lifting the vehicle moves your axles slightly to one side. And get some front brake line anchors. I didn't like that AEV wants you to ziptie the brake lines to the shock body after you remove the front brakets. I used the Teraflex brake line anchor kit instead.

AEV is a nice choice. I've used them twice for my lifts. Very happy with their products.
 

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The 2.5" Dual Sport kit should come with everything you need, outside of the steering damper upgrade. When I did mine, they did not have the new HD springs ready for market. I still think I would have gone with the standard rear springs as I don't usually have huge weight in the bed.

Its a very nice suspension system. I have enjoyed mine so far. Installed it all myself over a weekend. Just make sure you have a good large torque wrench. 190 ft lbs on the control arms is a lot to handle. And I let my local 4x4 shop retorque everything for me. The rears have some funky torque settings.
 

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Adjustable front track bar is all you need to add.
 

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Just wanted to add that I’ve installed the Dualsport lifts on three JKs and they all rode and drove better afterwards. I think AEV overall makes great products and plan to use their Mojave spacer lift here soon on my JT.
 

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Has anyone used the longer control arms from the oem 2" lift with the aev duelsport? This was my plan.
The DualSport is closer to 3" when all is said and done. I'd recommend going with stock control arms and the included geo brackets or new adjustable control arms.
 
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chorky

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You might want to consider the AEV geo corrention location brakets - helps get the right caster and pinion angle back. I used these on my Mojave when I did the AEV 2" spacer lift. Didn't do the dual sport because I want to retain the factory shocks and springs.

Also the dual sport kit comes with a rear ajustable track bar. You may want to get one for the front as well. When I put this kit on my JK, I added one to get the "poke" looking the same on both sides in the front. Lifting the vehicle moves your axles slightly to one side. And get some front brake line anchors. I didn't like that AEV wants you to ziptie the brake lines to the shock body after you remove the front brakets. I used the Teraflex brake line anchor kit instead.

AEV is a nice choice. I've used them twice for my lifts. Very happy with their products.
I'm confused here. I thought the dual sport already had geo-brackets. Their website talks about a rear track bar relocation bracket and two front control arm brackets. Am I missing something here? Not sure what other brackets would be needed? It does seem odd though that there is no relocation for the rear control arms..... Interesting they wanted you to use tiptoes for the brake lines... I dont like that at all. I thought that there was enough line for up to 3" of lift on the factory lines? Sounds like thats just pushing them too far?


The 2.5" Dual Sport kit should come with everything you need, outside of the steering damper upgrade. When I did mine, they did not have the new HD springs ready for market. I still think I would have gone with the standard rear springs as I don't usually have huge weight in the bed.

Its a very nice suspension system. I have enjoyed mine so far. Installed it all myself over a weekend. Just make sure you have a good large torque wrench. 190 ft lbs on the control arms is a lot to handle. And I let my local 4x4 shop retorque everything for me. The rears have some funky torque settings.
Probably gonna farm this one out. My body is too broken to do this work on it myself anymore. Plus recovering from a major surgery currently - gonna be 12 months just to get half way back to normal. Good to know about that 190 pounds though that seems like an awful lot.


Adjustable front track bar is all you need to add.
That's what I thought. Any suggestions? I like how the factory components have bushings that soak up NVH. My TJ has the rock jock with JJ's and its quite noisy - I would prefer NOT to have a JJ style and prefer to have more of a factory rubber bushing style for longevity and low maintenance (getting old). Also..... I know it has a bracket for the rear but figure it would be good to just make things 'even' and have a rear adjustable track bar also..... any suggestions there?


Just wanted to add that I’ve installed the Dualsport lifts on three JKs and they all rode and drove better afterwards. I think AEV overall makes great products and plan to use their Mojave spacer lift here soon on my JT.
Great to hear. I hear this a lot. Could you please describe for me the handling comfort and drivability difference? I would love to find one locally with an AEV lift to maybe go for a ride. One thing I am curious about is if it is much stiffer. I know a lot of people do not like the 'soft' rubicon set-up but for me with my medical stuff that actually is a HUGE bonus... A much stiffer ride would really stop me from getting out as much as I do... I spoke with several people already and everyone says the AEV makes it ride a lot better but nobody so far has been able to really give me a solid comparison of Rubi suspension vs AEV suspension... Because if it makes it super stiff, that honestly could be a deal breaker - or I would have to get different shocks.

The DualSport is closer to 3" when all is said and done. I'd recommend going with stock control arms and the included geo brackets or new adjustable control arms.
Oh wow I thought I read that its closer to 2". Hmm..... I'll have to search around for some pics of before/after. I really am not sure at the moment if I even want to step up to 35's... for a couple reasons. So probably will still be on 33's at least as long as the tires are good. 3" would for sure mean I need a side step.
 
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chorky

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Thanks for all the input so far folks :beer:
 

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I'm confused here. I thought the dual sport already had geo-brackets. Their website talks about a rear track bar relocation bracket and two front control arm brackets. Am I missing something here? Not sure what other brackets would be needed? It does seem odd though that there is no relocation for the rear control arms..... Interesting they wanted you to use tiptoes for the brake lines... I dont like that at all. I thought that there was enough line for up to 3" of lift on the factory lines? Sounds like thats just pushing them too far?



That's what I thought. Any suggestions? I like how the factory components have bushings that soak up NVH. My TJ has the rock jock with JJ's and its quite noisy - I would prefer NOT to have a JJ style and prefer to have more of a factory rubber bushing style for longevity and low maintenance (getting old). Also..... I know it has a bracket for the rear but figure it would be good to just make things 'even' and have a rear adjustable track bar also..... any suggestions there?



Oh wow I thought I read that its closer to 2". Hmm..... I'll have to search around for some pics of before/after. I really am not sure at the moment if I even want to step up to 35's... for a couple reasons. So probably will still be on 33's at least as long as the tires are good. 3" would for sure mean I need a side step.
So I forgot to add that I did also replace the rear brake lines. At full droop I wasn't comfortable with how tight they were.
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I have Metalcloak adjustable trackbar up front. I currently have a gifted Evo in the rear. I've got a Metalcloak waiting to go in at some point. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it or not to replace control arms. If I do it'll be with, you guessed it, Metalcloak. Why didn't I just go Metalcloak from the get go? I don't need that insane amount of articulation and didn't want to buy a new front driveshaft. After taking it out a few times I would like a little more flex that Metalcloak's duroflex joints would provide.
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I went back and checked the measurements I took before and after. 3" increase at the front bumper, 3.25" increase at the rear bumper. Here's what mine looks like with 37s.

Jeep Gladiator AEV Dual Sport Lifts - what else is needed jeep-jpg-
 

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chorky

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So I forgot to add that I did also replace the rear brake lines. At full droop I wasn't comfortable with how tight they were.
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I have Metalcloak adjustable trackbar up front. I currently have a gifted Evo in the rear. I've got a Metalcloak waiting to go in at some point. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it or not to replace control arms. If I do it'll be with, you guessed it, Metalcloak. Why didn't I just go Metalcloak from the get go? I don't need that insane amount of articulation and didn't want to buy a new front driveshaft.
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I went back and checked the measurements I took before and after. 3" increase at the front bumper, 3.25" increase at the rear bumper. Here's what mine looks like with 37s.

Jeep Gladiator AEV Dual Sport Lifts - what else is needed jeep-jpg-

Yeah I hear alll day every day metalcloak is the way to go because their bushings are amazing. Haven't seen them in person but that's probably the way I will go as well. Some day I will get their components for the TJ too. But, to my understanding the reason AEV does the brackets is to negate the need for new control arms. I get doing trac bars of course (and brake lines - which ones did you go with?), but what benefit does adjustable control arms give if the brackets from AEV allow for correct geometry in the first place? Maybe the brackets get the geometry 'close' but not the sweet spot?

Your rig looks awesome!! Its interesting your even pushing over 3" in the rear. What springs did you opt for? The regulars, or the HD's? Kinda looks like 35's will be needed.... 33's would probably look funny given how yours sits on 37's. Looks like I will have to for sure get a side step first before a lift/tires.
 

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I had it on my JKU. Loved the ride. Get the Geo-correction brackets for the front if not included. The only other thing I purchased was a new steering damper and quick disconnects.
 

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For the ride, I would best describe it as well controlled. Less body roll, less pitch and dive, more responsive handling, but definitely not harsh. Sort of like how many German cars manage to have well controlled body motions without being harsh. Not that it by any means will make your JT into a BMW, but in my opinion it rode better in every possible way. In my opinion most Jeeps don’t get a lot of attention paid to their driving dynamics because they are Jeeps, AEV seems to put in the work.
 

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Yeah I hear alll day every day metalcloak is the way to go because their bushings are amazing. Haven't seen them in person but that's probably the way I will go as well. Some day I will get their components for the TJ too. But, to my understanding the reason AEV does the brackets is to negate the need for new control arms. I get doing trac bars of course (and brake lines - which ones did you go with?), but what benefit does adjustable control arms give if the brackets from AEV allow for correct geometry in the first place? Maybe the brackets get the geometry 'close' but not the sweet spot?

Your rig looks awesome!! Its interesting your even pushing over 3" in the rear. What springs did you opt for? The regulars, or the HD's? Kinda looks like 35's will be needed.... 33's would probably look funny given how yours sits on 37's. Looks like I will have to for sure get a side step first before a lift/tires.
Metalcloack control arms for the sake of their flexibility vs stock. The geometry correction brackets work great with the stock control arms though. Brake lines were of course Metalcloak 🤣 (my club is a big fan of them and our shop is a dealer and gets them for a good price). I've read somewhere that the AEV is targeted towards overlanders so they give you a little more lift than advertised for when you load it down with racks, rooftop tents, and other heavy overloading stuff. Measurements taken when installed, things could have settled by then, haven't taken any measurements since install. Those are regular springs, I ordered/installed a few months before the HD came out.
 
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chorky

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So I forgot to add that I did also replace the rear brake lines. At full droop I wasn't comfortable with how tight they were.
-
I have Metalcloak adjustable trackbar up front. I currently have a gifted Evo in the rear. I've got a Metalcloak waiting to go in at some point. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it or not to replace control arms. If I do it'll be with, you guessed it, Metalcloak. Why didn't I just go Metalcloak from the get go? I don't need that insane amount of articulation and didn't want to buy a new front driveshaft. After taking it out a few times I would like a little more flex that Metalcloak's duroflex joints would provide.
-
I went back and checked the measurements I took before and after. 3" increase at the front bumper, 3.25" increase at the rear bumper. Here's what mine looks like with 37s.

Jeep Gladiator AEV Dual Sport Lifts - what else is needed jeep-jpg-

With it being slightly over 3" up front did you not need a new front drive shaft?
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