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All differences between Rubicon and Sport with Max Tow?

Elanachan

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Hello there. I'm getting to the point from watching various videos online that I'm starting to have an idea of what the eventual build will be once I can afford to finally get mine, and I'm trying to get a complete list of the differences between these two trim levels to figure out which one to use as a base.

Bellow is the list I have been able to come up with of mechanical equipment the sport trim lacks, I will also be putting notes for which components I would be replacing as part of my built that might make the thought of getting a Rubicon less important due to the degree of aftermarket modifications, or can be added to a sport model:

*Fox Shocks - To be swapped out for a 3 - 4 inch lift/suspension upgrade to allow for up to 40 inch tires

*Rock Rails - Door rails to be swapped out for aftermarket rails that have a step for easier access for shorter riders. Rear bumper rails might be swapped along with the bumper to something that allows a tailgate mounted spare tire carrier similar to the wranglers to allow for larger than 37" tires.

*Skid plates - Some say the factory ones are rather thin and should be upgraded?

*Front steel bumper - I've heared dealers can be talked into installing these onto sport/overland trim models, and I do like this option more or less equally with the other options I've seen so far.

*Hood - I know the Rubicon hood is available from mopar with the condition of needing to be painted. I'm not sure how much actual functionality the vents provide though.

*Differential locks - This was always the number one reason to get the Rubicon for me, and I know there are aftermarket options out there.

*Swaybar Disconnect - I've never had a vehicle that had this feature before, I also don't know if this is something that could be added to a modified sport.

*Trailcam - I've been told aftermarket options are out there.


Curious what you guys think, given the notes I've made, and if there are any performance differences that I missed.
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Lynn_F

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Highline fenders that give 1" more tire clearance, ability to get leather, ability to get 8" radio, ability to get led head/fog lights. It all depends on how many options you're going to add. Mechanically just about everything can be bought aftermarket and added to a Sport pkg except for the electronic sway bar disconnects I believe. I bought my Sport S Max Tow back in July before there were any real discounts to speak of and I'm happy with it. If I were buying now, with all of the discounts that are available, I would most likely end up with a Rubicon.
 

Rollcast

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Not performance related but...

Different interior accents.

Rubicon has 400 watt inverter.
 
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Elanachan

Elanachan

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Highline fenders that give 1" more tire clearance, ability to get leather, ability to get 8" radio, ability to get led head/fog lights. It all depends on how many options you're going to add. Mechanically just about everything can be bought aftermarket and added to a Sport pkg except for the electronic sway bar disconnects I believe. I bought my Sport S Max Tow back in July before there were any real discounts to speak of and I'm happy with it. If I were buying now, with all of the discounts that are available, I would most likely end up with a Rubicon.
Leather might be a nice to have, but not necessary, and we might do seat covers anyway, The 8.4 inch radio is available with the Sport S. I have, so far, listed what I would be swapping out on the rubicon if I got one with each of the earlier bullet points.

Are the fenders the main thing I missed?
 
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Elanachan

Elanachan

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Not performance related but...

Different interior accents.

Rubicon has 400 watt inverter.
The 400 watt inverter is available with the trail rail system.
 

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The 400 watt inverter is available with the trail rail system.
He’s talking about inside the vehicle... There is a 110 plug in the back of the center console. :like:
 

smlobx

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If you’re going to run 40’s you’ll need to re-gear or you won’t be able to get out of your own way....

Then you’ll need to upgrade your brakes etc., etc., etc.
 

ACAD_Cowboy

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Difflocks are addable via a new d44-e carrier and a wiring harness right off the mopar shelf. I posted the part numbers somewhere on here.

Swaybar disconnect is very handy from the cab but if you can use an open box wrench and a socket and ratchet handle you can completely disconnect front AND rear with about 20 minutes of crawling under.

Oem steel bumpers are an easy driveway install, 8 bolts,a floor jack, swapping some plastic. A few beers and some music and it'll be fun.

3"+ lift, depending on whos lift is also a very doable in the driveway job. In 8 hours I threw a lift with shocks and springs in plus rotors, pads and full caliper rebuild all around. Now Im a trooper and don't expect anyone else go nuts like I did but as long as you aren't relocating brackets it can be a quick and fun project. A solid day and you'd be rolling like rock star for saturday night.

40's is a lot of tire. Never mind regearing to keep your acceleration at factory rates, 40s are heavy and will impart a negative aspect to unsprung weight, fuel economy and general on road dynamics. I'm sure a few people are going to say you dont need to regear, the automatic is great but the reality is even with 4.10's your time to speed and throttle to speed, aka the ability to leave a light and the ability to pass are gonna are gonna be murdered. Gearing will help that get back to stock so it moves like it should.

But 40's are heavy, I'd want to up size the brakes and look at steering assist options. Gyroscopic forces being what they are, the stock kit won't give you what you want.

Other than that a gladiator sitting on 40" MT's with some butch bumpers and skids & armor will look real tough.

For reference a buddy has a jku on 40's with a 3.5" lift, dana 60's under it.

It'll put the top rail of the bed at about 5' from ground.

2008-jeep-wrangler-jku-x-4dr-4x4-the-wontonjk-07.jpeg
 

whiteglad

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I don''t know if the Rubi has the same brakes as the max tow, but I have the latter and its brakes are huge.
 

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PyrPatriot

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It has 300-500lbs less in payload. 1100-1300 for Rubicons vs 1400-1700 for Sports. 765lbs less towing. The difference comes from the rear springs being stiffer on the Sport/Max Tow.

Also doesn't the Rubicon have a different transfer case/lower gearing?

If you really want to know ALL the differences, spend a few hours looking at replacement OEM/Mopar parts. I was surprised to find some parts I assumed to be the same for both, like axle tubes, to be different part numbers.
 

whiteglad

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True, the transfer cases are different, 2.72 for everything except Rubicon which is 4:1. After having the 4:1 for a few years, I wanted to go back to the 2.72 which is better for the types of trails I take, especially with 4.10 diffs and the 8 speed auto.
 

ACAD_Cowboy

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It has 300-500lbs less in payload. 1100-1300 for Rubicons vs 1400-1700 for Sports. 765lbs less towing. The difference comes from the rear springs being stiffer on the Sport/Max Tow.

Also doesn't the Rubicon have a different transfer case/lower gearing?

If you really want to know ALL the differences, spend a few hours looking at replacement OEM/Mopar parts. I was surprised to find some parts I assumed to be the same for both, like axle tubes, to be different part numbers.
The payload and towing differences come from the fixed GVWR limit and the equipment differences between the two, not simply springs etc.
 

ACAD_Cowboy

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True, the transfer cases are different, 2.72 for everything except Rubicon which is 4:1. After having the 4:1 for a few years, I wanted to go back to the 2.72 which is better for the types of trails I take, especially with 4.10 diffs and the 8 speed auto.
The NVG241OR (rock trac) rubicon transfer case is a brute with the 4:1 low range. It is deep, real deep. Is it too deep? Hard to say. I happen to like low range and high gears for passable but trying conditions. A neat trick is the 2Low selector from Teraflex , https://teraflex.com/shop_items/jk-241or-2low-2wd-low-range-shift-sector-kit , lets you select 2H-4H-N-2L-4L for all the benefits of low range and differential lockers in rear wheel drive for far better steering and all the grunt.

Myself I'd rather have 4:1 versus excessive wheel spin at bad times. But my trails aren't your trails so its your choice.
 

JRobes

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I think recently someone posted that they got the 8.4" Uconnect on their sport S and it got them the in-cab usb ports on the back of the center console, I may be mistaken though.

You also don't get the footwell interior ambient lights on the sport/sport S, but do on the overland/rubicon.

Seats covers are also obviously different, not sure if the foam padding is actually different though. Rubi also gets the molle seat back panels.

Exterior badging is different.

I'm pretty sure all models have all the same skids as the Rubicon except for the front-most one that protects the Rubicon's sway bar disconnect.

The hood vents on the Rubi are more for show; they have a drain hole in them for water, but don't do much if anything for ventilation.
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