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ShadowsPapa

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There is a middle ground.

Don't go ballistic Karen on them. Keep it short sweet and simple with Why they would void or deny your warranty or claim??
That's always true - no matter what. Be calm, factual, organized.

As far as backup camera - there was a similar thing happened and posted about on this, or perhaps it was another Jeep forum about the backup camera stopping after this exact sort of thing with another device made to modify settings. This is not a first by any means. It's happened before.
And my statements about electrical and such devices - stands. You start changing things, all it takes is a single bit out of place and you've done something you were not counting on. A reset may well fix things. Seems that's how another similar issue was resolved.
Yes, it can happen with programmers, and it has happened before.
I believe another person lost a display in the cluster making settings changes - and it's not what they were trying to do. But it happened.
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Dav6662

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I don’t understand why a dealership refuses to do warranty work.....don’t they get paid by the manufacturer to do warranty work? Has the manufacturer cut back on what they pay? Is it worth losing a customer over it?

i might would have less to argue about if the dealership has refused the warranty work because the manufacturer says they must...but other than that, I think it is foolish and does not make good business sense....
 

ShadowsPapa

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I don’t understand why a dealership refuses to do warranty work.....don’t they get paid by the manufacturer to do warranty work? Has the manufacturer cut back on what they pay? Is it worth losing a customer over it?

i might would have less to argue about if the dealership has refused the warranty work because the manufacturer says they must...but other than that, I think it is foolish and does not make good business sense....
It has to be WARRANTY work. If you mess around and break something, it's not warranty work. If something goes south while you are making changes, especially electrically, it may not be warranty work.
I defined warranty earlier - the fault of the manufacturer or materials.
They do get paid, but a flat rate - a limited time. If it is rated for .3 hours and they spend an hour, they EAT that. They lose money. And the pay rate may not be what they can make doing other hourly work.
They get paid - but it has to be well-defined, it must be a manufacturer defect, not consumer-caused, and they get only what's stated in the book, nothing more.
The TSB for the steering gear is a great example - the time allotted is very specific - if they have to spend another 30 minutes because you have extra stuff under there, they have a right to charge you for that. If your vehicle is stock and the TSB says 1.9 hours but it takes them 2.5 - they EAT it. They could have spent that other .6 hours making 70 bucks or more.

Warranty doesn't cover man-made issues.
So you take something in after changing settings and messing things up - how is that warranty?
They may spend 2 hours trying to figure out what happened - they can't collect for that unless it's a defect or issue with the device.
But if you take it in and the tail lights don't work - that's well-defined (unless you tapped into the wires with scotch-locks and screwed it up - then it's your baby, not a defect)
 

Jeeperjamie

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It has to be WARRANTY work. If you mess around and break something, it's not warranty work. If something goes south while you are making changes, especially electrically, it may not be warranty work.
I defined warranty earlier - the fault of the manufacturer or materials.
They do get paid, but a flat rate - a limited time. If it is rated for .3 hours and they spend an hour, they EAT that. They lose money. And the pay rate may not be what they can make doing other hourly work.
They get paid - but it has to be well-defined, it must be a manufacturer defect, not consumer-caused, and they get only what's stated in the book, nothing more.
The TSB for the steering gear is a great example - the time allotted is very specific - if they have to spend another 30 minutes because you have extra stuff under there, they have a right to charge you for that. If your vehicle is stock and the TSB says 1.9 hours but it takes them 2.5 - they EAT it. They could have spent that other .6 hours making 70 bucks or more.

Warranty doesn't cover man-made issues.
So you take something in after changing settings and messing things up - how is that warranty?
They may spend 2 hours trying to figure out what happened - they can't collect for that unless it's a defect or issue with the device.
But if you take it in and the tail lights don't work - that's well-defined (unless you tapped into the wires with scotch-locks and screwed it up - then it's your baby, not a defect)
This right here, I would suggest anyone using tuners or tapping into wires to know what your doing or getting into before you do it.
 

cgflyer

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That's always true - no matter what. Be calm, factual, organized.

As far as backup camera - there was a similar thing happened and posted about on this, or perhaps it was another Jeep forum about the backup camera stopping after this exact sort of thing with another device made to modify settings. This is not a first by any means. It's happened before.
And my statements about electrical and such devices - stands. You start changing things, all it takes is a single bit out of place and you've done something you were not counting on. A reset may well fix things. Seems that's how another similar issue was resolved.
Yes, it can happen with programmers, and it has happened before.
I believe another person lost a display in the cluster making settings changes - and it's not what they were trying to do. But it happened.
I replied to this thread that it happened to mine after I installed an unlocked PCM and a Superchips Traildash2, I had other issues including flashing check engine light, ESS was not working correctly and I had very rough running in all 97 octane tunes. I uninstalled both and put my factory PCM back in, the backup camera worked as it should...I will say that with the TD2 and unlocked PCM, the backup camera worked, it just didn't come on in reverse, but I could still select it from the
 

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cgflyer

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This right here, I would suggest anyone using tuners or tapping into wires to know what your doing or getting into before you do it.
I agree, I have a couple of wires tapped now, no issues yet, but I understand that I could end up eating some labor charges if issues arise...
 

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So how are you supposed to calibrate the speedo? And by putting a lift or larger tires on you modify something. Don’t they have to show that your modification caused the issue?
 

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I replied to this thread that it happened to mine after I installed an unlocked PCM and a Superchips Traildash2, I had other issues including flashing check engine light, ESS was not working correctly and I had very rough running in all 97 octane tunes. I uninstalled both and put my factory PCM back in, the backup camera worked as it should...I will say that with the TD2 and unlocked PCM, the backup camera worked, it just didn't come on in reverse, but I could still select it from the
There was another, though. I thought there was also one about not seeing the economy reading or something else in the cluster itself after some messing with settings.
 

ShadowsPapa

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So how are you supposed to calibrate the speedo? And by putting a lift or larger tires on you modify something. Don’t they have to show that your modification caused the issue?
There's where it could get sticky............ let's say they work with it and find it's working fine after they do a reset. Then it's not a broken device necessarily.
I know - that gets sort of gray as one dealer here will change your settings for different tires (their accessories guy) or they'll sell you a device so you can do it yourself.

The original dealer in all of this was really off the mark when saying "any electrical" as that's a huge blanket statement covering anything from a physical connector to LED tail lights or headlights, turn signal operations, the NAV radio just plain dying (like happened with my wife's GC)
That was just plain WRONG.
But - if they go in and fix what was done to cause the camera to not work - assuming here for sake of argument, and find it wasn't a defect -then the dealer could do a good will thing, or charge for the fix.
But to say - no more electrical warranty. Naw - so what happens if the relay for the rear window defrost dies? Nothing at all to do with anything else at all - they'd have to cover it.

So I say the answer is two part - the dealer is blowing smoke or has their head up - well, in a dark warm place, but maybe the issue of the camera was caused by a device or consumer error.
That's where an honest discussion needs to be held.
If I were the dealer, I'd see what it took to fix it and it not a lot, I'd probably just say here ya go, enjoy. I've done a lot of repairs for free, though, just because.
 

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So how are you supposed to calibrate the speedo? And by putting a lift or larger tires on you modify something. Don’t they have to show that your modification caused the issue?
JScan can do it and it doesn't leave a trace. Only things like Superchips, which is a tuner also, leave a trace. Other tuners do as well. JScan does not leave a trace so the dealership will not know if you have or haven't done anything
 

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ShadowsPapa

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JScan can do it and it doesn't leave a trace. Only things like Superchips, which is a tuner also, leave a trace. Other tuners do as well. JScan does not leave a trace so the dealership will not know if you have or haven't done anything
Speaking of jscan - I bought thinking I was going to use it for proximity lock addition AND setting tire sizes to ensure accuracy - especially when running the Rubicon take-offs.
So I did a test today, driving several miles with both.
I set my GPS up as a speedometer, logging distance, time, miles and more.
I set the miles to 0 on the GPS when my JT trip meter A hit a certain point. I drove over 13 miles and in the end, the miles on the truck and the miles on the GPS lines up to the tenth of a mile and the mph indicators followed each other exactly although the analog dial on the right - the physical speedometer always seemed to read a bit above even accounting for parallax. But the digital readouts on the truck and the GPS lined up absolutely perfectly in both speed and distance traveled over 13+ miles.
In short, my JT is spot-on.
So I don't get to plug in that cable and mess with tire sizes after-all.
 

Jeeperjamie

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Speaking of jscan - I bought thinking I was going to use it for proximity lock addition AND setting tire sizes to ensure accuracy - especially when running the Rubicon take-offs.
So I did a test today, driving several miles with both.
I set my GPS up as a speedometer, logging distance, time, miles and more.
I set the miles to 0 on the GPS when my JT trip meter A hit a certain point. I drove over 13 miles and in the end, the miles on the truck and the miles on the GPS lines up to the tenth of a mile and the mph indicators followed each other exactly although the analog dial on the right - the physical speedometer always seemed to read a bit above even accounting for parallax. But the digital readouts on the truck and the GPS lined up absolutely perfectly in both speed and distance traveled over 13+ miles.
In short, my JT is spot-on.
So I don't get to plug in that cable and mess with tire sizes after-all.
That's awesome, wish mine was like that, which I added 35's, but mine was off by 4 mph when comparing it to the speed and I can't remember what it was as far the miles go but it was off enough for me to want to change it.
 

Dav6662

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Speaking of jscan - I bought thinking I was going to use it for proximity lock addition AND setting tire sizes to ensure accuracy - especially when running the Rubicon take-offs.
So I did a test today, driving several miles with both.
I set my GPS up as a speedometer, logging distance, time, miles and more.
I set the miles to 0 on the GPS when my JT trip meter A hit a certain point. I drove over 13 miles and in the end, the miles on the truck and the miles on the GPS lines up to the tenth of a mile and the mph indicators followed each other exactly although the analog dial on the right - the physical speedometer always seemed to read a bit above even accounting for parallax. But the digital readouts on the truck and the GPS lined up absolutely perfectly in both speed and distance traveled over 13+ miles.
In short, my JT is spot-on.
So I don't get to plug in that cable and mess with tire sizes after-all.
Was your phone plugged into the Jeep? Ie iPhone plugged in with CarPlay? I ask because I was excited when I picked up my newly lifted Jeep...went from stock to 35s.......I pulled up my speedo app and everything was perfectly I sync...then someone told me to unplug it from vehicle and disconnect it from BT and I was now about 2-3 mph off........
 

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I'd also like to add that in order to reject a warranty claim, they will need to actually identify what was wrong in the first place. I have had success with asking how they know what is wrong without fixing it. After the issue was fixed, the motivator for rejecting the warranty (not having to do an exceptionally PITA repair) was gone, and it processed like a standard claim.

Particularly with electrical issues, poor connections is often the issue- maybe a bent pin, plug that isn't seated correctly, pinched wire, etc. If you look through my post history, I talk about a shop who legitimately messed up with the AMP power steps install. Ultimately, it took a Jeep electrician the better part of a week to fix the electrical, which the shop was initially going to pay for. Wasn't really disputed. However, the electrician found several pins that weren't fully set, a loose plug, and some other stuff that was in no way related to the steps. They elected to process all of it as a warranty, as they couldn't say in good faith that the other wiring issues weren't contributing to the issue.

Granted, I have a great dealership, and they are the exception, but the point still stands to make them do the repair before they decide it wasn't warranty.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Was your phone plugged into the Jeep? Ie iPhone plugged in with CarPlay? I ask because I was excited when I picked up my newly lifted Jeep...went from stock to 35s.......I pulled up my speedo app and everything was perfectly I sync...then someone told me to unplug it from vehicle and disconnect it from BT and I was now about 2-3 mph off........
I used a dedicated GPS on the windshield, my phone was sitting on the cup holder beside me, not plugged in.
Everything matched. I set the cruise for a couple of miles twice to keep a really steady speed and it lined up fine. Set speed was 45 one time, 55 the other. Both the digital speedometer display on the dash and the Garmin and phone (android) GPS lined up.
When I started the GPS tracking, the trip A read 262.
262 + 13.5 = 275.5


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