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Ding gus

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Original plan was gray fifteen52 analogs with 35s (Already bought the wheels).
Found a set of K02s on some raceline wheels with tpms on marketplace with no miles and recent datecode cheaper than I could find 35s.
Unfortunately for my wallet I surprisingly like the raceline wheels so I may have to punt the analogs.

First impressions on this mornings commute is a much smoother rider over typical rough roads and speed tables. I was expecting a more significant power drop too especially with the manuals gearing but so far Im realy pleased.. That may change on the expressway and in heavy traffic of course.

I do suspect the TPMS may not be compatible as it was showing about 4lbs light and after about 30 min I did get an error. I may need to swap in the stocks sensors.
Heading to MOAB for white rim (from FL) in march and contemplating the AEV spacer lift. A bit worried about stuffing tires into the inner fenders but I may take that risk for some better mileage as thats going to be some significant highway miles there and back.

Hell I might even wash the new wheels and maybe the truck this weekend :).

Jeep Gladiator Another Stock Mojave on 37s (Manual) Jee
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ErrngeElise

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I lived with that tire on my 6mt for almost a full year before I got 4.88s. It was fine around town but you really find yourself in "the wrong gear" a lot and have to downshift more frequently just for mild acceleration. Its not ideal but it is workable. I really am enjoying the 4.88s now.
 

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If nothing else, throw in a 3/4 inch spacer out back to compensate for the weight of your RTT. I did the same for when I pull my trailer. It will give the rear tire a little more breathing room too. And don’t disconnect the sway bar. My 35’s barely touch with it disconnected.

Daystar-KJ09192 .75" REAR Lift Kit for 2020 Jeep Gladiator JT
https://a.co/d/bnpgJdI
 
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Ding gus

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I lived with that tire on my 6mt for almost a full year before I got 4.88s. It was fine around town but you really find yourself in "the wrong gear" a lot and have to downshift more frequently just for mild acceleration. Its not ideal but it is workable. I really am enjoying the 4.88s now.
Your statement seems in-line with what I had previously read. My typical commute is definitely really chill and not a good real world test for average driving. I'll have a go on the expressway this evening and see how it feels.

If you had to do over would you settle again on 4.88s or step up to anything else?
 

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Ding gus

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If nothing else, throw in a 3/4 inch spacer out back to compensate for the weight of your RTT. I did the same for when I pull my trailer. It will give the rear tire a little more breathing room too. And don’t disconnect the sway bar. My 35’s barely touch with it disconnected.

Daystar-KJ09192 .75" REAR Lift Kit for 2020 Jeep Gladiator JT
https://a.co/d/bnpgJdI
It looks like these work with mojave too, I'll pick up a set for now thanks!
 

ErrngeElise

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Your statement seems in-line with what I had previously read. My typical commute is definitely really chill and not a good real world test for average driving. I'll have a go on the expressway this evening and see how it feels.

If you had to do over would you settle again on 4.88s or step up to anything else?
I debated back and forth over 4.88 and 5.13s for a long time. The general consensus, as I'm sure you have read, is that for the 6MT you should bump up an extra ratio compared to the normal size with a given tire size and the 8AT. So most people recommend a 4.88 with a 37 for the 8AT and a 5.13 for the 6MT. I don't think that is bad advice if you have a heavy setup or you tow frequently or live in areas with steep grades but I think I prefer to stop at 4.88s just to keep the pinion gear size up a bit more. I've been told 5.13s end up getting fairly weak/high stressed on the pinion engagement.
But more importantly, the math suggests that 4.88s more than make up for the difference with this tire in final drive ratio. This tire is really a 36. Its not even the 36.5 the specs claim.
So in summary, I think 5.13s would have been fine, but 4.88s feel just like stock again even if I went to a true to size 37" in the future.
 

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Hell I might even wash the new wheels and maybe the truck this weekend :).
Supposed to be in the 80's Friday in Central Florida, so I'm wondering...is that a Ceco Door Co. sign reflecting in your window? Do you work for them, or Assa/Abloy? Orlando?
 
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Ding gus

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Supposed to be in the 80's Friday in Central Florida, so I'm wondering...is that a Ceco Door Co. sign reflecting in your window? Do you work for them, or Assa/Abloy? Orlando?
You have good eyes, Yes that's a Ceco sign and I do work for them. I cover south and central florida with occasional national work. Do you work in AEC industry also?
 

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Bear in mind as you get past central Texas on your way to Moab you'll be gaining altitude a good portion of the way. Moab is at around 4,000 ft but you'll have places in Colorado where you exceed that by quite a bit before you drop down into the valley. On the stock gears with 37s, hoo boy, you'll learn about 3rd & 4th gear.
 

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You have good eyes, Yes that's a Ceco sign and I do work for them. I cover south and central florida with occasional national work. Do you work in AEC industry also?
Architectural Hardware for 15 years, you probably know some of the people I worked with or competed with.

I'm also running 37's with stock gears (4.10), but with the auto. Here in Florida we can get away with it for the most part. Once we hit some elevation it becomes noticeable it's under geared. Not sure what gear you may need to keep it in on elevation climbs, but once you are out of the fuel economy RPM range and now pushing high RPM's to maintain speed, your gas mileage is going to take a huge hit.
 

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Bear in mind as you get past central Texas on your way to Moab you'll be gaining altitude a good portion of the way. Moab is at around 4,000 ft but you'll have places in Colorado where you exceed that by quite a bit before you drop down into the valley. On the stock gears with 37s, hoo boy, you'll learn about 3rd & 4th gear.
Some truth right here. My JLU has those tires and a six speed, I regeared to 5.13’s and after wheeling in Colorado and Utah if I could do it again I would go with 5.38’s

4.88’s would probably be fine in Florida but altitude plays a big part in the gear choice.
Gregj
 
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Ding gus

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Some truth right here. My JLU has those tires and a six speed, I regeared to 5.13’s and after wheeling in Colorado and Utah if I could do it again I would go with 5.38’s

4.88’s would probably be fine in Florida but altitude plays a big part in the gear choice.
Gregj
I'll probobly suffer through my first trip with the 4.10s. I don't think I'll have many future trips out west with the truck (typically motorcycle) so it will stay mainly in Florida. Leaning towards the 4.88s or maybe 5.13s most likely depends on what I find a good deal on. I passed on a new-in box set of 5.38s the other day but hadn't done enough research into the companies.

Any brand recommendations or things to avoid? I've seen some issues with Yukon around these parts.
 
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Ding gus

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Bear in mind as you get past central Texas on your way to Moab you'll be gaining altitude a good portion of the way. Moab is at around 4,000 ft but you'll have places in Colorado where you exceed that by quite a bit before you drop down into the valley. On the stock gears with 37s, hoo boy, you'll learn about 3rd & 4th gear.
Well its a great opportunity for the wife to learn to shift thats for sure :)
 

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Bear in mind as you get past central Texas on your way to Moab you'll be gaining altitude a good portion of the way. Moab is at around 4,000 ft but you'll have places in Colorado where you exceed that by quite a bit before you drop down into the valley. On the stock gears with 37s, hoo boy, you'll learn about 3rd & 4th gear.
So true!
Drove through Texas up into NM, then Colorado up to the San Juan range. My JT running 37's and 5.13's was struggling a bunch at altitudes 4K and above. I ran out of power in high range above 12,000! As in with the pedal floored, my Jeep would not climb a steep grade!
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