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Anyone installed a Rusty's Truss Kit?

Benbean66

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I feel it's a little on the pricey side, but that's an awesome looking kit. I'll be following along to see if anyone has installed one as well.
 

Rusty PW

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I've been looking at the Rusty's truss kit too. As it checks all the boxes. 👍
 

NERokToy

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I like the rusty's design better, but it looks like Barnes offers 3/16 parts for much cheaper
 

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CrazyCooter

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I like really Artec as it looks like they designed theirs with more angles and reached down closer to the center of the axle tubes. It also looks to fit the areas around the control arm mounts better. May require additional bumps stop spacing if a person isn't already running more spacer than required as standard on most lifts.

The Barnes truss just looks cheesy with a lot of gaps around the control arm mounts and is pretty tall also. It is the cheapest though......

The Rusty's truss is the lowest profile of the 3, but lacks the multiple angles for strength over the Artec. If you look at the pics, it looks like they also supply a sleeve to fit around the passenger tube? Interesting.

I'm thinking Rusty's might be my choice out of these because we're really just trying to add strength to the right tube and my truck is a diesel, so thinking I need all the clearance I can get? I don't think the 1/8 vs 3/16" really come into play here as the rest of the housing is plenty weak? The M210 front axle isn't anything that will take the serious abuse in comparison to a 1 ton axle in a vehicle that would be getting trashed.
 

Artec

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I would like to point out a few features of our truss. We have engineered multiple bends in our truss kits as well as dimpled holes to increase the strength and reduce weight since consumers are growing more and more weight conscious of their builds. Doing those features on the truss's we were able to use a lighter material to help keep the weight down over our previous generation of trusses that used 3/16 while actually increasing the strength with the thinner material. We also pulled down the front and back plates along the tubes to the center line of the axle tubes to distribute the heat along the center of the tubes while welding to reduce the risk of warping the housing.
 

CrazyCooter

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I would like to point out a few features of our truss. We have engineered multiple bends in our truss kits as well as dimpled holes to increase the strength and reduce weight since consumers are growing more and more weight conscious of their builds. Doing those features on the truss's we were able to use a lighter material to help keep the weight down over our previous generation of trusses that used 3/16 while actually increasing the strength with the thinner material. We also pulled down the front and back plates along the tubes to the center line of the axle tubes to distribute the heat along the center of the tubes while welding to reduce the risk of warping the housing.
Thanks for popping in here for additional info!

As I mentioned in my post, I can appreciate the thought and execution that has gone into your truss offering. While I'm not a engineer by title, I do have a firm understanding of how these additional features add strength and reduction in the possibility of pulling the tube as the metal shrinks from welding.

Can you comment on possible clearance issues and/or required bump stop spacing if one were to add your truss? It's on my list of "To Do" since I like to drive at a brisk pace on medium terrain.
 

Artec

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We have not added any bump stop extensions on our JT Rubi Diesel with RK 3.5" coils with 37.'s the truss has only come into contact with the frame side trackbar bolt . When we were blasting through the dunes at sand hollow and completely bottomed out the suspension If the bolt was installed in the reverse direction with the bolt head towards the front of the Jeep it would have cleared but there is ample clearance around the oil pan. .
 

CrazyCooter

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We have not added any bump stop extensions on our JT Rubi Diesel with RK 3.5" coils with 37.'s the truss has only come into contact with the frame side trackbar bolt . When we were blasting through the dunes at sand hollow and completely bottomed out the suspension If the bolt was installed in the reverse direction with the bolt head towards the front of the Jeep it would have cleared but there is ample clearance around the oil pan. .
So to clarify......

Do you have a bump stop spacer installed at all? Or do you have a 1, 2, 3, or 4" spacer as supplied by most manufacturers? I ask because I manufacture my own stops for every vehicle I build to optimize available up travel as I feel it's most important with my style of low CG go fast builds.

It certainly looks like on my ecodiesel truck that with zero bump spacer added, I'd have 4" up travel not including bump compression of an extra 1-1.5". On my truck, I measure 7.5" to the oil pan from the tube. From the pics, your truss looks to adds possibly 3" to the tube height? My math says the truss will crash into the pan without a bump spacer installed. Even with my current 1" spacer and aftermarket longer bump cushion, it may still contact on a hard strait hit.

3.6l gas trucks have even more suspension up travel due to the shorter bumps tubes, but they may have more room in the oil pan area? I don't have one here to measure currently.

Not trying to pick apart your product, but many of us are fine tuning to get every last 1/4" of travel and would find this data useful. Could you add the truss dimensions to your site so we can make an educated decision? I want to truss my own truck and I've already built up an estimate for one of my clients, but can't sell it or pull the trigger without first due diligence.

If clearance "could" be an issue, this could give you guys the opportunity to make a revision in your design to appeal to more of us?

I'm not asking for you to tell us what spacer is required as your instructions clearly state that it is up to the end user to determine clearance issue.
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