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Auxiliary Switch Wiring

SC Doberman

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My Mojave has the factory Auxiliary Switches. I noticed that under the hood the wires for these are tucked behind the battery ready to go. Does someone make a terminal block that mounts nice and clean for these to connect to? Thanks.
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ShadowsPapa

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Heck, for 10 bucks, make your own, keep it small and simple and compact.

No offense intended for those who use the big commercial versions - they are just too big and bulky and expensive for what they do. They take up space (and money I used for other stuff)
I had to keep it low profile (the screws are low and recessed into the acrylic) to clear the hood struts (redline tuning - they barely clear the stock fender bolt heads as it is)

Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary Switch Wiring 20221109_160600_HDR


Before I added the 12v outlet and my winch solenoid bracket and snow plow fuse.............
I can add or remove something by sticking a screwdriver through the holes that line up above each screw, but nothing can accidentally otherwise touch them due to the cover.
I have a position for each of the 4 aux switches and 2 for grounds (left end - the left two are connected by a brass piece)

Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary Switch Wiring 20220730_140937_HDR



Tiny, takes little room, isn't in the way of anything and I didn't spend 40 or 50 bucks for something I could make in minutes.

With the protective cover off -

Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary Switch Wiring terminal-block
 

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bd100

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2 for grounds (left end - the left two are connected by a brass piece)
If you start putting serious current through the grounds then it'll be worth it to run two dedicated wires instead of sharing one wire.

I made a panel like yours without the cover. It has already been a worthwhile addition as I added and moved around lights.
 

Mr._Bill

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There's plenty of room under there, in the gas engine models. I have the Simple Aux board, the Redline Struts, a Winch Solenoid, and a Smart Isolator, along with room for all the excess wire.
 

ShadowsPapa

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There's plenty of room under there, in the gas engine models. I have the Simple Aux board, the Redline Struts, a Winch Solenoid, and a Smart Isolator, along with room for all the excess wire.
Referring to what comments?
 

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I did a DIY version as well. A piece of ABS, Fastronix terminal block, and thumb nuts (makes connecting and reconfiguring very quick without tools). Also mounted winch solenoid on the side of the bent ABS.
Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary Switch Wiring 20220919_152708


Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary Switch Wiring 20220919_152716
 

ShadowsPapa

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Your comment implying that there wasn't enough room for the Simple Aux board and Redline struts to peacefully coexist.
No, I commented that I had to use the lower profile screws and recess them in mine as the stock bolts would not clear with my setup.

This is what I said - and it's very true. I tried and the struts hit. I used putty to check clearance.

I had to keep it low profile (the screws are low and recessed into the acrylic) to clear the hood struts (redline tuning - they barely clear the stock fender bolt heads as it is)
With the thin mounting bracket of the commercial version, it's possible there's clearance but can't be a lot because like I said, I used putty to measure it. With the factory bolts holding my system in place, the struts hit the bolts solidly. I absolutely could not use them. The putty was smashed to nothing. With the button head screws recessed like I have them, there's clearance.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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If you start putting serious current through the grounds then it'll be worth it to run two dedicated wires instead of sharing one wire.
Absolutely - agreed 100%
The ground for my bed power (12v outlet and USB charger, etc.) is direct to the fender ground stud.
And if I had to add anything taking more power, I'd add a second ground wire at the least.
That's a good point.
 
 



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