Bed Tie-Downs installed

[Reddout99]

I couldn't justify the cost of bed rails, even for the DIY versions and really won't need them for my plans as a DD. I found these and installed them last night. Pretty easy and inexpensive. I just had to clean the bed liner out of the mounting spots with a 6mm tap.

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[CarsonSurfs]

I did the same thing. Works like a charm.

 

[BAT]

I couldn't justify the cost of bed rails, even for the DIY versions and really won't need them for my plans as a DD. I found these and installed them last night. Pretty easy and inexpensive. I just had to clean the bed liner out of the mounting spots with a 6mm tap.

I've got the bed rails and for what I need this is much better option. I don't have or plan to get Molle Panels and the bed rails and good tie downs that work well with them is hit or miss

 

[TestMule]

@Reddout99 Where did you find those? They look great!

 

[Reddout99]

@Reddout99 Where did you find those? They look great!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MB985GW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KSTSX6S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[JRobes]

Careful how much you tension those anchor points, it's just a small M6 nut on the inside of the bed wall's sheetmetal, and individual anchor points like you have can tear out pretty easy (seen this happen on other members vehicles).

The reason the utility rails are used is it distributes the load across all of the M6 mounting points that hold the utility rail to the bedside, and the rail itself helps reduce prying on the M6 nuts.

For light loads, probably no big deal, but I personally wouldn't throw a ratchet strap on those.

 

[Reddout99]

Careful how much you tension those anchor points, it's just a small M6 nut on the inside of the bed wall's sheetmetal, and individual anchor points like you have can tear out pretty easy (seen this happen on other members vehicles).

The reason the utility rails are used is it distributes the load across all of the M6 mounting points that hold the utility rail to the bedside, and the rail itself helps reduce prying on the M6 nuts.

For light loads, probably no big deal, but I personally wouldn't throw a ratchet strap on those.

Understood. Knowing what my use will be, I'll be using them for light loads for sure. Light duty only

 

[ChrisNLA]

I did a DIY rail system using the same hooks - mostly because I wanted to put a little more load on them. I also used those hooks in the floor of my bed to make a removable tie down system for my fridge. Very handy.

 

[TestMule]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MB985GW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KSTSX6S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Thank you!

 

[Reddout99]

Thank you!

No problem

 

[SargeDiesel]

Careful how much you tension those anchor points, it's just a small M6 nut on the inside of the bed wall's sheetmetal, and individual anchor points like you have can tear out pretty easy (seen this happen on other members vehicles).

The reason the utility rails are used is it distributes the load across all of the M6 mounting points that hold the utility rail to the bedside, and the rail itself helps reduce prying on the M6 nuts.

For light loads, probably no big deal, but I personally wouldn't throw a ratchet strap on those.

Exactly why I sacrificed the $$$ for the rails. The Teraflex bed rail kit is a reasonable option.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/tera...o2o1R6QHbW00y8_GGkRoCGcMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ebay has some cheap options as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3948644232...Rir0w76wTdi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

 

[Reddout99]

All depends on the intent I have for these, and it is just a lightweight tie down anchor, I think the other options have their purpose, but for me, this is all I'll need.
Got to be careful with some of the inexpensive rails. I've seen some that are plastic, the eBay link just says "made of a high quality material"
But, who knows, if I change my plans I could easily upgrade

 

[GHWillys]

I am considering L-Track. I have seen others post that they have used it as a cheaper alternative to the Mopar rails.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUU4A3K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=ALSBC6Q12C0CN&psc=1

 

[Casique]

I got these for mine, from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/PFCC-Tie-Dow...8f8-8051-5478681dd7db&pd_rd_i=B07ZVHL5VK&th=1

 

[JRobes]

I am considering L-Track. I have seen others post that they have used it as a cheaper alternative to the Mopar rails.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUU4A3K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=ALSBC6Q12C0CN&psc=1

L track also works fine, but my opinion still as a lightweight option. Strut pieces with a deeper (more stiff) profile do a much better job of load distribution across the entire length of the strut member.

Think of this as taking a 2x4 and spanning it across two end supports (saw horses). If you lay the board flat on the saw horses so that it's wider than tall, you can fairly easily press down in the center of the board and there is a lot of deflection/bowing. If you take that same board and rotate it 90 degrees so it's taller than wider and again press down on the board it is far more rigid and can handle a much greater load across the span.

From what I've seen with L track it would be similar to this example when compared to the Mopar utility rails or a taller profile of UniStrut. L track would give you far more anchor points, but it still wouldn't do as good of a job of sharing the load across all of the bedwall anchor points, which is the goal since each of the anchor points have a low individual capacity.

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