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Broken body mount weld

davetha

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Hey,
Some of you may know that the welded nut snapped off the body of my Gladiator while trying to remove the bolt on the rear passenger side. The dealer doesn't want to touch it, so the next option is to pull it apart, possibly drill a little hole in the tub and extract it that way.

Anyway. I'm trying to find the OEM part numbers but I'm struggling to find all of them that I need. I'd like to try to get everything, or more than I need due to shipping delays etc..

The best I've found is.. https://www.dodgeparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-body-hold-down-cushion-68328257ac

So #5 is the Body Hold Down Cushion - Mopar (68328257AC)

I *think* I need the long bolt in #10, and it probably wouldn't hurt to get all of the rubber/poly mounts as well.

Does anyone have an exploded view with the part numbers, or know of the part numbers etc..?

I'm going to keep looking. Was hoping to just get the mopar OEM replacements.
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whiteglad

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The stock bolt is M12x1.75x200, or a bit longer when you add washers. Also get a high grade nut. You can go to grade 8 1/2" x 8"+ if you prefer to the metric and assuming it will go through the body mount cushions, etc. I would just get what I need in grade 12.9 allen head from McMaster Carr. First, hold the bolt head with vise grips and use a cut off wheel or sawzall (you will ruin a blade because the bolt is hard) to cut off the head. Then hammer the bolt up to dimple the floor where you need a hole, probably 1.5", and cut it with a hole saw.. Good luck and I hope these suggestions help.
 
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davetha

davetha

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You are a saint!. I was intending on doing what you mentioned. The actual welding I'm not going to do, as I don't trust myself doing it. I have a processional high end welder that will be doing the actual welds.

From that info your sent, it allowed me to find this. https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/v...6-gas/frame-bumper-and-fascia--body-hold-down which is the parts breakdown on everything there. I'll take a bolt + all of the bushings in case they were melted. We'll also get a high grade bolt for the tub.
 
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davetha

davetha

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The stock bolt is M12x1.75x200, or a bit longer when you add washers. Also get a high grade nut. You can go to grade 8 1/2" x 8"+ if you prefer to the metric and assuming it will go through the body mount cushions, etc. I would just get what I need in grade 12.9 allen head from McMaster Carr. First, hold the bolt head with vise grips and use a cut off wheel or sawzall (you will ruin a blade because the bolt is hard) to cut off the head. Then hammer the bolt up to dimple the floor where you need a hole, probably 1.5", and cut it with a hole saw.. Good luck and I hope these suggestions help.
Have you gone through a similar experience? I just finished ordering most of the parts and they should be here next week. I went safe and bought the rubber bushings just in case they are damaged. Thanks for the advice.
 

whiteglad

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Not this specific problem, but I did consider the possibilities before removing the body mount bolts to install my Rock Hard sliders. You could do a search for body mount bolts on you tube to see what others have done. One shows the "nut" clearly but I would not do the repair as they did it. If you don't use heat, you should not damage the cushions. On my Gladiator, the front bolts were the hardest to turn, and the rears came out easily.
 

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whiteglad

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If you have a friend who is a good welder, there is a chance you could find the right location on the body tub, use the hole saw, and he could re-weld the "nut" to the tub. However, this brings up a fire danger, and would probably damage the cushions. Because of the electronics, make sure the welder has a good ground nearby.
 

SwampNut

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The dealer doesn't want to touch it
So they denied that it was an original defect? Or you just let it go? I've got the same problem, Jeep Cares told me to take it to the dealer for diagnosis.
 
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davetha

davetha

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So they denied that it was an original defect? Or you just let it go? I've got the same problem, Jeep Cares told me to take it to the dealer for diagnosis.
Jeep Cares was actually accommodating. The dealer didn't want to deal with it because they aren't certified to fix welds like this. I ended up bringing it to someone who could and Jeep cut me a check for the cost.

Was yours a rear one that broke?
 

SwampNut

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Oh, what an awesome result and response from Jeep! Mine are both middle ones. BUT...I haven't taken off the others. I started with the rear driver, and it wouldn't budge. I didn't want to just keep getting a bigger wrench. So I went after the middle one, and it started to come out, then was spinning. I thought that maybe it was one of those tabbed bolts like other stuff under the body, so I thought maybe I just didn't hold it right. I tried the passenger side middle, and same problem! So now I'd like to see about having it fixed, and having whatever shop fixes it loosen the others.
 

whiteglad

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On mine, the rear bolts were easy, the middles were quite tight, but the front ones had red Loctite and were gorilla tight the whole way out. You might as well try the other 4 bolts, and if you remove them, put them back with grease on the threads. Then go to the dealership.
 

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davetha

davetha

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I have a picture of mine somewhere. It was only welded at one edge and had a tack on the other side. That mixed with the red loctite makes a bad combination.

Per their internal documentation you must heat the bolts with an induction heater until it's glowing orange to get the bolts out.
 

whiteglad

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Heating the bolts that much will destroy their heat treat. They won't be grade 10.9 any more.
 

Factoid

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Gang, red loctite melts at 500 degrees. No reason to heat it beyond that and that will not change the metallurgical properties of the bolt.

Anyway, really glad to hear the dealers are willing to repair!
 

SoCalGladiator

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Not this specific problem, but I did consider the possibilities before removing the body mount bolts to install my Rock Hard sliders. You could do a search for body mount bolts on you tube to see what others have done. One shows the "nut" clearly but I would not do the repair as they did it. If you don't use heat, you should not damage the cushions. On my Gladiator, the front bolts were the hardest to turn, and the rears came out easily.
Can you send link to that video where it shows the nuts? I just had a nut break free while removing the body mount bolts, got it put back together by tack welding it in place but would love to see a diagram of the nut
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