Clayton 3.5 overland plus help

[Newlife]

I’m about to start installing the Clayton lift and running into a math issue with the control arms. I have tried googling and I’d just call them and ask but they are closed for two more hours.
Can someone help me out with the “recommended” arm lengths. The .401, .116 numbers are throwing me off. I get that it’s just under 20.5 for the front uppers. But I just want to make sure because the alignment shop is around 45 minutes away.

Or possibly someone that installed the same arms might have written down what they set them to would be awesome.

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[hjdca]

When I installed my Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus kit, I measured the uppers and lowers exactly, many times. After installation, I ended up with 6.0 deg. caster. I wanted a little more caster to avoid any loose or wobble feeling, so, a few weeks after the installation, I shortened the front upper arms by 1/2 a turn and lengthened the front lower arms by half a turn. That gave me approx. 6.8 deg. Caster. Now after 25K miles or so, I feel that is perfect. So, based on my experience, use the 3.5" column attached below, measure exactly, and shorten the upper front control arms by 1/2 a turn, and lengthen the lower control arms by half a turn. When torquing to spec, Mark the lock nuts with a paint pen, so, you know they have not come loose.
For the rear, I recommend you use the Rock Jock or comparable driveshaft carrier spacer. It is easy to install and will lower your rear drive shaft a little to give you a better angle. With the stock rear drive shaft, you want to make sure the angle looks acceptable at full articulation.
Good Luck, it is a great kit, and will not squeak or sag with weight. Remember to torque the control arms to spec when the truck is sitting on the ground and not on jacks or a lift. Clayton arm lengths, and decimal to fraction charts below:

Here are some decimal to Fraction charts to help you:

 

[Newlife]

Well day one of headache has begun. Installed the springs and everything went smoothly. Go to take off the front trac bar and the axle shifted no big deal will correct when I put the new on one. Remove the driver lower control arm and the whole axle jumps way out of spec. To where the new control arm doesn’t line up at all. Front to back or side to side with the lca set at 24.5 per Clayton instructions and running it out half a turn. So now dead in the water until I can get a buddy to come help push the axle back and over tomorrow. The plus side I got to spend 4 un interrupted hours of working on the jeep with my daughter. And I got a new impact.

 

[CDNGladiator]

Are you doing the control arms under vehicle weight? I just did the 2.5 last month and didn't have much shift But I did the arms last with the vehicle on the ground.

 

[Randonexplosion]

Ratchet straps can be a big help pulling things into place to get bolts in, for the control arms as well as the track bar.

 

[Boostnu]

The front track bar you can get someone to start the vehicle and turn the wheel slightly until you can get the bolt in and then straighten it back center.

 

[Newlife]

Are you doing the control arms under vehicle weight? I just did the 2.5 last month and didn't have much shift But I did the arms last with the vehicle on the ground.

No that was part of the problem. Clayton’s instructions have you doing it while it up in the air. Had I spent 5 more minutes watching jk gears and gadgets video I would have seen just to do the springs, bumpstops, shocks, and sway bar on all 4 corners. Then put it down and do the arms and trac bars I’d have saved a lot of time. But it will all be back together tomorrow. I should have known too when I did the long travel on our 4Runner the rear axle did the same thing and it took two of us to get it back in.

 

[Rubi_Rue2021]

Well day one of headache has begun. Installed the springs and everything went smoothly. Go to take off the front trac bar and the axle shifted no big deal will correct when I put the new on one. Remove the driver lower control arm and the whole axle jumps way out of spec. To where the new control arm doesn’t line up at all. Front to back or side to side with the lca set at 24.5 per Clayton instructions and running it out half a turn. So now dead in the water until I can get a buddy to come help push the axle back and over tomorrow. The plus side I got to spend 4 un interrupted hours of working on the jeep with my daughter. And I got a new impact.

I am actually in the process just as you however I have the 2.5 kit. Did you try using ratchet straps? That is what I used and it helped me my actual did not shift big time but enough to need them.
Finished the front. Still have to do the steering stabilizer tie rod end drag link though. Then onto the rear.

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