IanNubbit
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Ian
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2020
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 537
- Reaction score
- 594
- Location
- New Jersey
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 JL 2 Door Sport 6MT & 2022 JT 6MT Sport
- Occupation
- Mopar Dealer Tech
- Thread starter
- #1
First write up so hopefully I don't mess this up too bad but wanted show some decent detail here so everyone knows the little tips and tricks for these door panels that I've found after replacing so many at work due to people bending connector pins when putting doors back on (This is exactly why I'm removing them, I planned on doing this as soon as I got the truck because I can get over not having entry lighting, I'd rather the less electronics the better anyways, also one less thing to worry about when removing and installing the doors.
Tools:
-10mm socket
-Medium to long flathead screw driver and/or window crank removal tool
-Panel pry/clip removal tool (I just used a nail puller because that's what I had at the house at the time)
-Needle nose pliers (the flathead works also, but not as easy)
-T30 bit/driver
-T20 bit/driver
Preface:
This is COMPLETELY able to be undone as long as you take your time and don't go too crazy with pry tools and scratch stuff, If its a lease, you'll be able to return this to stock if you would like. I only show the Right Front door due to all 4 are identical. A couple less bolts and connectors on the rear ones, if needed I can add that to this at a future date if requested. Features you will loose if you have a Sport (Not Sport S), tiny light in door handle, and the vehicle's ability to sense the doors being open/closed. Basically the truck will think you are running with no doors 24/7. (hint hint, you automatic guys, no more auto park). Anyone other then a Sport, ummm, probably not a mod for you unless you don't like using your windows, power mirrors, or locks...
1.) First remove the two T20 screws at the bottom of the door, the two T30 screws under the arm rest, and using some form of pry tool, carefully remove the cover behind the door handle, and remove the final T30 screw.
NOTE - The T30 screws have lock-tite and tend to give a little fight when removing and installing
2.) Pull back slightly on the window crank arm to reveal the clip holding it to the window regulator. It is located between the back of the crank arm and the washer isolator before the door panel. You can also alternatively use a window crank removal tool, or if your brave pull really hard, but I highly don't recommend this at all. I included of picture of the arm out so you can understand where to look since a picture with it on is useless. The idea here is to push on the exposed end of the clip and push it and away using a flat head screw driver, so that it comes off. If your good with a pick tool, coming from the round end of the clip and pulling would also work well here.
3.) Time to pull. This is kinda tricky, but no different then any door panel for decades now. I personally don't recommend any tool but your hand and good grip here as its super easy to scratch paint, or pry in the wrong area and visably warp the panel. Start from the bottom outer corner (rear of the door). Feel for where the closest clip is and pull from as close as possible to it directly away from the door. Slowly work your way all the around the panel until its held in by nothing but the upper rain rail. Take your time, yanking really isn't needed here as long as you just apply constant force right at where the clip your working on is at. Pulling up can net you pulling a clip out of the panel which is fine, but easy to warp the panel so try and pull directly back as much as possible. If a clip does come off, just use a pry tool at the point shown below until it pops out of the door and slide it back into its spot on the panel. Every clip is the same so exact placement is not required. After all the clips are off, the door panel slides up out of the rain rail, no clips just friction, this does take a little bit of force, but I've found lifting the rear portion up first, tends to help.
4.) To remove the two cables from the handle start with the lock cable, simply pull up from the black round clip until it releases then take the end of the cable off of the pivot. For the door release cable, use needle nose pliers to squeeze the two retention tabs on the white clip holding it to the panel, while squeezing, pull the cable sheath away from the handle and then up out of its tab, and remove the cable the same as before.
5.) On only the front doors, find this connector for the ambient door handle light, pull up on the red locking tab, then squeeze the connector and pull away to release the panel fully from the door assembly.
6.) Remove all the black and white cable retention clips from the carrier assembly (the big black plate in the center of the door. This is what jeep now uses instead of a separate window regulator and rails and a water shield, this is an all in one unit that cuts down on a lot of NVH) These are easy enough to just put a finger on either side of the clip and pulling, or a trim removal tool works great as well. Also pull out the rubber pass through plug that goes into the carrier assembly.
7.) Using you 10mm socket remove 5 of the 8 bolts holding the carrier on. There's no reason to remove all 8 as you only need small access in the rear. Put your hand in the position shown, and pull back. There's a connector attached to the latch. Impossible to show, but picture included to show what your looking and feeling for. The lock tab for the plug has to get pulled back first. A pick is great for this, or some skillful hand gymnastics and a stubby screwdriver will get the job done. After the lock is released, squeeze and pull that last wire out of there. Some cable management is holding it from letting it be completely as of yet. Snake it off the clips (picture shown for reference)
8.) When pulling on the carrier, you might here a pop, look and you might find that the latch bracket that hold its to the carrier has popped off. Simply put you hand through the hole from the rubber plug and pop it back in, helps prevent a future rattle. Reinstall all 5 bolts you removed. one hole will be left open in the top inside section of the panel, this is for the screw that goes behind the door handle, don't put a 10mm bolt here.
9.) Going back to the removed door panel. Pull all 4 clips, 2 for the disconnected plug and a plug still connected (no need to disconnect this because we are just taking it off anyways) and 2 just holding the wires to the carrier. Snake the wire out of the crossing retainers at the top of the panel (pictured). Then using a flat blade/pick/or small pry tool, push up where shown and gently pull on the harness to release one side of the ambient light retainers, repeat on the opposite side.
10.) Next lets go down to the bottom front corner of the door and remove the "soccer mom's don't like exposed connectors and door straps" cover. Unplug the excessive and massive connector that makes me want to to do this entire project to start with, and remove the door strap from the retainer on the body side. Looking at the footman loop holding the strap to the door, using a T30 bit, I find it's easiest to remove the upper bolt completely, and only loose the lower one enough to slide the strap out the top. No need to completely remove the loop.
11.) Hooray! look at that useless harness just to illuminate (very dimly) a door handle and tell your truck your passenger forgot to close the door enough. You can of course do whatever you want from here, I personally installed some paracord straps as I've personally seen them be significantly more secure then nylon straps, although the OEM strap is nice these days. Mopar does sell just the strap separately if that's the route you'd rather go. You could also do this mod completely free by pulling the stitches, or just cutting the door harness sleeve from the door strap itself. No matter what you do, its that ever so slightly lighter of a door (it's not, but maybe that will help you convince a S-O to do this lol), and one less step top removing the doors.
*The next steps are all just assembly, but there is some tips you might want/need to help make it go a little smoother.*
12.) Before putting the panel back on, ensure you have all the clips fully seated back on the panel and none are left in the door, I go over this in step 3. There is also a hole left over from removing the rubber plug, while there is basically no real reason to plug this back up besides very very minor noise and very very very minor water resistance to the back side of the door panel (it really isn't needed) either put some form of tape over the hole. I include a picture of what Jeep does for the hole for mirror wiring if you had that. Or feel free to remove the rubber plug from the removed harness if you have no intention to put it back on or resell it. I just left mine open.
13.) Slide the door panel back like it came from the top into the rain rail, make sure its fully seated. Starting at the top, look at both front and back, and make sure the clip is lining up to the hole. these clips don't require much force to put back it, it should easily pop in with just some firm pressure from the palm of your hand. Smacking it right away like a hammer is a good way to miss a hole and bend a clip. take your time, push one in at a time, after you got them all in, then go ahead and smack for good measure and give it a good "that ain't going anywhere" so it never comes out
14.) Side your E-Clip back onto the handle like shown, and align it to the window crank as you desire making sure to not forget the spacer washer.
That's it, let me know if you guys. have any questions
Tools:
-10mm socket
-Medium to long flathead screw driver and/or window crank removal tool
-Panel pry/clip removal tool (I just used a nail puller because that's what I had at the house at the time)
-Needle nose pliers (the flathead works also, but not as easy)
-T30 bit/driver
-T20 bit/driver
Preface:
This is COMPLETELY able to be undone as long as you take your time and don't go too crazy with pry tools and scratch stuff, If its a lease, you'll be able to return this to stock if you would like. I only show the Right Front door due to all 4 are identical. A couple less bolts and connectors on the rear ones, if needed I can add that to this at a future date if requested. Features you will loose if you have a Sport (Not Sport S), tiny light in door handle, and the vehicle's ability to sense the doors being open/closed. Basically the truck will think you are running with no doors 24/7. (hint hint, you automatic guys, no more auto park). Anyone other then a Sport, ummm, probably not a mod for you unless you don't like using your windows, power mirrors, or locks...
1.) First remove the two T20 screws at the bottom of the door, the two T30 screws under the arm rest, and using some form of pry tool, carefully remove the cover behind the door handle, and remove the final T30 screw.
NOTE - The T30 screws have lock-tite and tend to give a little fight when removing and installing
2.) Pull back slightly on the window crank arm to reveal the clip holding it to the window regulator. It is located between the back of the crank arm and the washer isolator before the door panel. You can also alternatively use a window crank removal tool, or if your brave pull really hard, but I highly don't recommend this at all. I included of picture of the arm out so you can understand where to look since a picture with it on is useless. The idea here is to push on the exposed end of the clip and push it and away using a flat head screw driver, so that it comes off. If your good with a pick tool, coming from the round end of the clip and pulling would also work well here.
3.) Time to pull. This is kinda tricky, but no different then any door panel for decades now. I personally don't recommend any tool but your hand and good grip here as its super easy to scratch paint, or pry in the wrong area and visably warp the panel. Start from the bottom outer corner (rear of the door). Feel for where the closest clip is and pull from as close as possible to it directly away from the door. Slowly work your way all the around the panel until its held in by nothing but the upper rain rail. Take your time, yanking really isn't needed here as long as you just apply constant force right at where the clip your working on is at. Pulling up can net you pulling a clip out of the panel which is fine, but easy to warp the panel so try and pull directly back as much as possible. If a clip does come off, just use a pry tool at the point shown below until it pops out of the door and slide it back into its spot on the panel. Every clip is the same so exact placement is not required. After all the clips are off, the door panel slides up out of the rain rail, no clips just friction, this does take a little bit of force, but I've found lifting the rear portion up first, tends to help.
4.) To remove the two cables from the handle start with the lock cable, simply pull up from the black round clip until it releases then take the end of the cable off of the pivot. For the door release cable, use needle nose pliers to squeeze the two retention tabs on the white clip holding it to the panel, while squeezing, pull the cable sheath away from the handle and then up out of its tab, and remove the cable the same as before.
5.) On only the front doors, find this connector for the ambient door handle light, pull up on the red locking tab, then squeeze the connector and pull away to release the panel fully from the door assembly.
6.) Remove all the black and white cable retention clips from the carrier assembly (the big black plate in the center of the door. This is what jeep now uses instead of a separate window regulator and rails and a water shield, this is an all in one unit that cuts down on a lot of NVH) These are easy enough to just put a finger on either side of the clip and pulling, or a trim removal tool works great as well. Also pull out the rubber pass through plug that goes into the carrier assembly.
7.) Using you 10mm socket remove 5 of the 8 bolts holding the carrier on. There's no reason to remove all 8 as you only need small access in the rear. Put your hand in the position shown, and pull back. There's a connector attached to the latch. Impossible to show, but picture included to show what your looking and feeling for. The lock tab for the plug has to get pulled back first. A pick is great for this, or some skillful hand gymnastics and a stubby screwdriver will get the job done. After the lock is released, squeeze and pull that last wire out of there. Some cable management is holding it from letting it be completely as of yet. Snake it off the clips (picture shown for reference)
8.) When pulling on the carrier, you might here a pop, look and you might find that the latch bracket that hold its to the carrier has popped off. Simply put you hand through the hole from the rubber plug and pop it back in, helps prevent a future rattle. Reinstall all 5 bolts you removed. one hole will be left open in the top inside section of the panel, this is for the screw that goes behind the door handle, don't put a 10mm bolt here.
9.) Going back to the removed door panel. Pull all 4 clips, 2 for the disconnected plug and a plug still connected (no need to disconnect this because we are just taking it off anyways) and 2 just holding the wires to the carrier. Snake the wire out of the crossing retainers at the top of the panel (pictured). Then using a flat blade/pick/or small pry tool, push up where shown and gently pull on the harness to release one side of the ambient light retainers, repeat on the opposite side.
10.) Next lets go down to the bottom front corner of the door and remove the "soccer mom's don't like exposed connectors and door straps" cover. Unplug the excessive and massive connector that makes me want to to do this entire project to start with, and remove the door strap from the retainer on the body side. Looking at the footman loop holding the strap to the door, using a T30 bit, I find it's easiest to remove the upper bolt completely, and only loose the lower one enough to slide the strap out the top. No need to completely remove the loop.
11.) Hooray! look at that useless harness just to illuminate (very dimly) a door handle and tell your truck your passenger forgot to close the door enough. You can of course do whatever you want from here, I personally installed some paracord straps as I've personally seen them be significantly more secure then nylon straps, although the OEM strap is nice these days. Mopar does sell just the strap separately if that's the route you'd rather go. You could also do this mod completely free by pulling the stitches, or just cutting the door harness sleeve from the door strap itself. No matter what you do, its that ever so slightly lighter of a door (it's not, but maybe that will help you convince a S-O to do this lol), and one less step top removing the doors.
*The next steps are all just assembly, but there is some tips you might want/need to help make it go a little smoother.*
12.) Before putting the panel back on, ensure you have all the clips fully seated back on the panel and none are left in the door, I go over this in step 3. There is also a hole left over from removing the rubber plug, while there is basically no real reason to plug this back up besides very very minor noise and very very very minor water resistance to the back side of the door panel (it really isn't needed) either put some form of tape over the hole. I include a picture of what Jeep does for the hole for mirror wiring if you had that. Or feel free to remove the rubber plug from the removed harness if you have no intention to put it back on or resell it. I just left mine open.
13.) Slide the door panel back like it came from the top into the rain rail, make sure its fully seated. Starting at the top, look at both front and back, and make sure the clip is lining up to the hole. these clips don't require much force to put back it, it should easily pop in with just some firm pressure from the palm of your hand. Smacking it right away like a hammer is a good way to miss a hole and bend a clip. take your time, push one in at a time, after you got them all in, then go ahead and smack for good measure and give it a good "that ain't going anywhere" so it never comes out
14.) Side your E-Clip back onto the handle like shown, and align it to the window crank as you desire making sure to not forget the spacer washer.
That's it, let me know if you guys. have any questions
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