Diesel Rubicon Lift Quote - Fact Check this!

[gecko_rubi]

So I just got my build sheet for my JTRD and I’m planning a mild build - will use it as a commuter and for camping/overland (nothing too serious right now as that’s what the LJ is for).

I have decided I want to run 37’s as that is the best proportional tire (IMO).

Just got back from a local shop and they are stating/recommending the following:
- use a a Teraflex 3.5 lift with larger springs (4-4.5) up front to compensate for the diesel weight (since TF doesn’t make a diesel kit). They will also add a .5” spacer to help
- Method wheels will not work with 37s as they rub due to offset. Have to go with any other brand.
- They’ve never had an issue with one of their built rigs (with the TF lift) having issues with warranty work at the dealership. This is a big one.

The rest of their suggestions/comments seemed legit but these weren’t jiving. I’m not an expert but not sure this is adding up. They build a lot of Jeeps which makes me think maybe I’m not understanding as I’m still learning about the JT.

I want the warranty intact. That will be key. I keep hearing Mopar lift “should” keep the warranty so that might be the route to go (just doesn’t fit proportionally to me).

Appreciate any feedback based on experience.

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[Jocww]

You might be right, but what happens if this happens on a road trip and they deny you? This is why Im paying for the Mopar lift and also why I am having the dealer do it. I have the tools and the time to do it, but I do not have the money or the time to be dicked around because something breaks and a dealer decides they want to be an ass and say something cant or wont be warrantied on a trip because its not a Mopar part. So even if its not the height i want, or the price i want to pay. I am willing to pay it just for the peace of mind that if something does happen I can say The FUCK YOU WONT, this is a Mopar part, designed by your engineering team, installed by a Mopar dealer so fucking fix it.

 

[CerOf]

I was soured on Tera flex with bad control arm joints a number of years ago. They would not own up to it.

For probably the same $$, go Clayton.

For warranty, go mopar.

 

[QuickOne]

I was soured on Tera flex with bad control arm joints a number of years ago. They would not own up to it.

For probably the same $$, go Clayton.

For warranty, go mopar.

same. Bad track bar joints in my JL as well. clayton on my JT, and a big fan.

 

[gecko_rubi]

same. Bad track bar joints in my JL as well. clayton on my JT, and a big fan.

Thanks for the feedback. Was unfamiliar with teraflex so good to hear from some people who’ve had it.

anyone know if the comments about the method wheels are accurate? Like their bead grip concept and seen a couple on the forum using various models. Anyone had issues?

 

[gecko_rubi]

You might be right, but what happens if this happens on a road trip and they deny you? This is why Im paying for the Mopar lift and also why I am having the dealer do it. I have the tools and the time to do it, but I do not have the money or the time to be dicked around because something breaks and a dealer decides they want to be an ass and say something cant or wont be warrantied on a trip because its not a Mopar part. So even if its not the height i want, or the price i want to pay. I am willing to pay it just for the peace of mind that if something does happen I can say The FUCK YOU WONT, this is a Mopar part, designed by your engineering team, installed by a Mopar dealer so fucking fix it.

Yeah been there done that. Fighting with the dealership is not something I want to waste energy on anymore.

 

[Chris262]

Thanks for the feedback. Was unfamiliar with teraflex so good to hear from some people who’ve had it.

anyone know if the comments about the method wheels are accurate? Like their bead grip concept and seen a couple on the forum using various models. Anyone had issues?

I think they told me 4.5 backspacing recommended... If the method wheel you are looking doesn't have that option then use a spacer to get to what they recommend. As far as warranty I know where I work they don't care unless something wears prematurely due to the pinion angle being set incorrectly. Of course if a part in the kit wears out then it really isn't the dealerships problem warranty wise and I don't see how its out of line to charge you to inspect and repair the vehicle if you provide them with the replacement component.

 

[steve68]

I was soured on Tera flex with bad control arm joints a number of years ago. They would not own up to it.

For probably the same $$, go Clayton.

For warranty, go mopar.

I had TF 2.5 kit on my JKU, front springs couldnt handle a metal bumper and JCR rock rails, rode like shit and everyone could tell, was about to swap them and then the JT came out! no more TF, Clayton for the win,

 

[CrazyCooter]

Method has wheels in 4.75 and 5.78 backspace. Both will work for you depending on your goals. 5.78 to keep 12.50s right at the edge of your fender and 4.75s to push them out an inch to make inner fender clearance for extreme flexing on 37"+ tires.

I run the 4.75 on 37s becase I was building a flexy rig and I just sold my buddy the 5.78 on 35s because he wanted them inside the fenders and has very little lift.

From a shop standpoint, there's no margins in Method or Clayton and probably why they are steering you in another direction even if it not in your best interests.

Tera joints have been garbage in the past. I'm going with Metal Cloak and suspect Clayton would be equivalent reading up on their stuff.

Best thing you can do us deal with a shop that owns Jeeps and actually uses them like you will use yours.

 

[gecko_rubi]

Method has wheels in 4.75 and 5.78 backspace. Both will work for you depending on your goals. 5.78 to keep 12.50s right at the edge of your fender and 4.75s to push them out an inch to make inner fender clearance for extreme flexing on 37"+ tires.

I run the 4.75 on 37s becase I was building a flexy rig and I just sold my buddy the 5.78 on 35s because he wanted them inside the fenders and has very little lift.

From a shop standpoint, there's no margins in Method or Clayton and probably why they are steering you in another direction even if it not in your best interests.

Tera joints have been garbage in the past. I'm going with Metal Cloak and suspect Clayton would be equivalent reading up on their stuff.

Best thing you can do us deal with a shop that owns Jeeps and actually uses them like you will use yours.

Method has wheels in 4.75 and 5.78 backspace. Both will work for you depending on your goals. 5.78 to keep 12.50s right at the edge of your fender and 4.75s to push them out an inch to make inner fender clearance for extreme flexing on 37"+ tires.

I run the 4.75 on 37s becase I was building a flexy rig and I just sold my buddy the 5.78 on 35s because he wanted them inside the fenders and has very little lift.

From a shop standpoint, there's no margins in Method or Clayton and probably why they are steering you in another direction even if it not in your best interests.

Tera joints have been garbage in the past. I'm going with Metal Cloak and suspect Clayton would be equivalent reading up on their stuff.

Best thing you can do us deal with a shop that owns Jeeps and actually uses them like you will use yours.

Good to know! This shop has a lot of lifted (not built, just lifted) Jeeps and they all use the same combo of wheels and lift so your comment about the margins is making more sense. Clayton was actually what I was leaning towards as another option.

Appreciate the insight on the methods.

 

[Dougstdig]

Another thing to keep in mind. As I was told Friday at the Jeep dealer in Gainesville, FL, if it’s not mopar they will void the warrantee on the whole vehicle. Once you’re in their system as being voided you’re screwed. (With leaks and other potential issues on a new vehicle I think it’s a better idea to keep it as long as your stomach can take it.) Even if it’s a teraflex level kit to keep the diesel from bottoming out? Yep.

I watched a YT video today and the fella said his post settled measurements were from 2.5 to 3 inches at each wheel with the Mopar lift. With a 2 inch puck at each front corner this should yield between .5 and 1 inch greater up travel. This was on the 3.6. I’ve found NO vids or posts on the oil burner with the diesel molar lift yet.

Also…I don’t buy teraflex’s idea of placing 4.5 coils in the front. This may work for a static (parking lot) photo, but once you get that weight in motion you’re talking different physics. For example, a 180lb. Man jogging exerts approximately 500lbs of force on each foot when it lands. If you don’t increase the spring rate it won’t work.

 

[Mac]

4-4.5” springs with a .5” spacer seems like a lot to run 37s even with the diesel weight.
I wouldn’t worry too much about Jeep warranty the parts used in the lift and associated with it don’t generally cause problems the warranty would cover. I would go with the Mopar lift as it is made for the diesel and seems like a good match for the type of use you listed.

 

[Jocww]

Another thing to keep in mind. As I was told Friday at the Jeep dealer in Gainesville, FL, if it’s not mopar they will void the warrantee on the whole vehicle. Once you’re in their system as being voided you’re screwed. (With leaks and other potential issues on a new vehicle I think it’s a better idea to keep it as long as your stomach can take it.) Even if it’s a teraflex level kit to keep the diesel from bottoming out? Yep.

I watched a YT video today and the fella said his post settled measurements were from 2.5 to 3 inches at each wheel with the Mopar lift. With a 2 inch puck at each front corner this should yield between .5 and 1 inch greater up travel. This was on the 3.6. I’ve found NO vids or posts on the oil burner with the diesel molar lift yet.

Also…I don’t buy teraflex’s idea of placing 4.5 coils in the front. This may work for a static (parking lot) photo, but once you get that weight in motion you’re talking different physics. For example, a 180lb. Man jogging exerts approximately 500lbs of force on each foot when it lands. If you don’t increase the spring rate it won’t work.

If you search my posts you can see that I did this lift and has done me well. Ive done Windrock, Moab, and Rubicon, with no Ill effects. I just did Pismo and it did ok. Some bottoming out, not much though.

 

[bleda2002]

Another thing to keep in mind. As I was told Friday at the Jeep dealer in Gainesville, FL, if it’s not mopar they will void the warrantee on the whole vehicle. Once you’re in their system as being voided you’re screwed. (With leaks and other potential issues on a new vehicle I think it’s a better idea to keep it as long as your stomach can take it.) Even if it’s a teraflex level kit to keep the diesel from bottoming out? Yep.

They literally can't not void the warranty for the whole vehicle from a lift (assuming it's not some monster 6+ thing). They won't warranty the new suspension, but you changed that anyways so who cares. They can only void systems the lift affects so suspension and possibly pinion if you were set incorrectly and even then it's not permanent as if you return to stock and get it fixed you are covered again. If that's what that dealer told you I'd not bother using them as they are just looking for excuses to get the higher customer rate instead of warranty rate on repairs.

The main reason they cam void the whole warranty is for suspected submersion since that will screw the electrical system.

 

[Jocww]

They literally can't not void the warranty for the whole vehicle from a lift (assuming it's not some monster 6+ thing). They won't warranty the new suspension, but you changed that anyways so who cares. They can only void systems the lift affects so suspension and possibly pinion if you were set incorrectly and even then it's not permanent as if you return to stock and get it fixed you are covered again. If that's what that dealer told you I'd not bother using them as they are just looking for excuses to get the higher customer rate instead of warranty rate on repairs.

The main reason they cam void the whole warranty is for suspected submersion since that will screw the electrical system.

guess you havent had a shitty dealer before....

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