Texan
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Want to keep the heat off the top of your head and turn the decibel level down inside the cab a notch or two at highway speeds, but also want a custom look? This is what I did for a DIY headliner solution.
x1 4x8 x 3/4" thick sheet of EPS insulated foam board (foil lined) - local big box lumber store (Lowes in my case)
x1 can spray adhesive - same big box - I had some 3M Super 77 left over from the speaker box build I did
appx. 2 yds of vinyl depending on width - sourced mine from Katzkin so it would match leather on my seats
appx. 6 sq. ft. of sound deadening material - for me it was leftover Kilmat from my audio intstall
adhesive backed velcro tape - Amazon - I used 2"x 5 yard Stronghold hook and loop
scrap cardboard to make templates out of
a few basic tools - I used a box cutter, 1" roller, and a hand stapler with 1/4" staples -I don't trust the spray glue to hold up based on my sub box experience
Started by creating some templates out of cardboard. Only needed to do 1 side and you can flip them over for the other - no difference from side to side:
Transfer that to your foam board and cut your panels. I beveled the edges of my front panels so they would fit snug all the way around. Reminder to keep up with which side faces what direction since you are cutting some things from the back side at times. Keep the foil side up on the panels (back side) and vinyl wrap the non-foiled side. Straight cuts on the rear panels worked fine. Space them out on your vinyl and cut allowing approximately 2" extra around the perimeters to roll over the sides and staple on the back. Spray adhesive the vinyl and foam board (white side), give it a few minutes to tack up, and center up the foam panel on the vinyl and stick it down. Flip it over and smooth it all out so you don't have any wrinkles, shoot another pass of spray adhesive along the edges, allow to tack, and start folding the vinyl up and over. I wasn't overly concerned with how pretty it looked since it wont be seen once installed. Even the corners don't have to be perfect since the panels are fitted to the roof. Based on my experience with this cheap spray adhesive, I didn't want to stretch the vinyl very much and I went overkill and stapled the crap out of it along the edges in hopes that it doesn't come apart over time:
Cut 2-1/2" wide strips of the Kilmat and fill in the recessed areas of the rear roof and use 2" wide strips in the front panels. Much easier to do with the roof removed (mine was hanging in the garage):
Cut your velcro or 'hook and loop' into short strips and align on the raised areas of the roof. I applied these to the rear panels first and then pressed the panels into place in the roof. Did the opposite on the fronts since they are smaller and easier to eyeball and align the panels. This velcro seems very strong, so if you think you might want to remove the panels at a later time, be conservative on how long and how many strips you use:
Align your panels, press into place with the palms of your hands (not knuckles or you will leave indentations on your foam board - ask me how I know), and that's all there is to it! So easy I plan to do the sides of the top behind the rear doors as well when I can get to it:
Hope this helps someone give it a shot as well.
x1 4x8 x 3/4" thick sheet of EPS insulated foam board (foil lined) - local big box lumber store (Lowes in my case)
x1 can spray adhesive - same big box - I had some 3M Super 77 left over from the speaker box build I did
appx. 2 yds of vinyl depending on width - sourced mine from Katzkin so it would match leather on my seats
appx. 6 sq. ft. of sound deadening material - for me it was leftover Kilmat from my audio intstall
adhesive backed velcro tape - Amazon - I used 2"x 5 yard Stronghold hook and loop
scrap cardboard to make templates out of
a few basic tools - I used a box cutter, 1" roller, and a hand stapler with 1/4" staples -I don't trust the spray glue to hold up based on my sub box experience
Started by creating some templates out of cardboard. Only needed to do 1 side and you can flip them over for the other - no difference from side to side:
Transfer that to your foam board and cut your panels. I beveled the edges of my front panels so they would fit snug all the way around. Reminder to keep up with which side faces what direction since you are cutting some things from the back side at times. Keep the foil side up on the panels (back side) and vinyl wrap the non-foiled side. Straight cuts on the rear panels worked fine. Space them out on your vinyl and cut allowing approximately 2" extra around the perimeters to roll over the sides and staple on the back. Spray adhesive the vinyl and foam board (white side), give it a few minutes to tack up, and center up the foam panel on the vinyl and stick it down. Flip it over and smooth it all out so you don't have any wrinkles, shoot another pass of spray adhesive along the edges, allow to tack, and start folding the vinyl up and over. I wasn't overly concerned with how pretty it looked since it wont be seen once installed. Even the corners don't have to be perfect since the panels are fitted to the roof. Based on my experience with this cheap spray adhesive, I didn't want to stretch the vinyl very much and I went overkill and stapled the crap out of it along the edges in hopes that it doesn't come apart over time:
Cut 2-1/2" wide strips of the Kilmat and fill in the recessed areas of the rear roof and use 2" wide strips in the front panels. Much easier to do with the roof removed (mine was hanging in the garage):
Cut your velcro or 'hook and loop' into short strips and align on the raised areas of the roof. I applied these to the rear panels first and then pressed the panels into place in the roof. Did the opposite on the fronts since they are smaller and easier to eyeball and align the panels. This velcro seems very strong, so if you think you might want to remove the panels at a later time, be conservative on how long and how many strips you use:
Align your panels, press into place with the palms of your hands (not knuckles or you will leave indentations on your foam board - ask me how I know), and that's all there is to it! So easy I plan to do the sides of the top behind the rear doors as well when I can get to it:
Hope this helps someone give it a shot as well.
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