"Drag link adjustment kit"?

[The Yeti]

Well all was good. Until I went out for a quick test drive so I could come back give it a quick alignment and center the steering wheel. Well the wheel was off quite abit. No big deal, get under it to loosen the jam nuts and give the bar a twist or 2 and check it again BUT... the passenger side jam loosened no problem the pitman side was stiff so I tried and tried and grabbed a snipe for the already big Ol' crescent wrench but nothing. So, instead of leaving it be (which wouldn't be an option in the end anyway) I decided my only option was to pop it back off and put it in the vise in a better position for leverage, to get that jamnut loosened. Of course despite trying to be delicate, the boots now are toast on both ends(Moreso on the Rh end) after trying to be care with the pickle fork to no success. AND, to top it off that jamnut is welded in place already and isn't coming loose, Overnight, I just put it on by hand last night. Antiseized the inner threads on the bar (not the jam nuts as per instructions) so FML now I have a $625 brand new part on my Jeep that I'll be needing to replace, probably sooner than later since now it's worse than when I took it back off, enough to set the traction control light on the dash. I can't expect warranty for something that's kind of my fault (other than the seized jam nut). Pretty pissed at the moment.
Anyone else who reads threads saying these jam nuts back off easily and to make sure they're good and tight. I'd have to say that fella probably weighs 60lbs soaking wet. I'm not that massive of a guy and put the jam nuts on tight enough where I can't loosen them even though they spun freely with my fingers and weren't cross threaded.
I guess I should've just left it them loose to begin with before test driving and centering the wheel and I might not have had to deal with this until I needed to do an alignment again down the line. But, regardless I now know I'm not a fan of this jam nut style set up. I initially thought it made sense and would be almost as simple as stock. I now know better. I should've researched a little more to start and my fault I guess but it pisses me off having to spend money twice, especially within hours and no miles. Mostly venting here at this point.
Found a place that I put an order in for the Yeti unit instead now for actually $100 cheaper than I paid for the APEX. Order hasn't officially gone through yet being Sunday but it says 14-21 days before it will even ship so another kick in the ass there. Gota love being in Canada when items aren't in stock.
Edit(less than a week later): Thanks to Northridge (Canada) I got my Yeti drag link yesterday and swapped it out quickly last night. After adjusting the wheel, the scanner wouldn't reset the light, but a 10 minute or so drive eventually did. Northridge hooked me up and air freighter from their Kentucky warehouse and had it to me in2 days and no extra cost. I've never purchased there before and only came across them from a google search for Jeep parts but will definately be buying from then again when needed. Also I like the style of this Yeti unit. It's similar to stock in its style but beefier and definately heavier. And NO JAM NUTS! Hopfuly it last a long time but I guess I have a spare once I figure out what boots to replace on the Apex and work on possibly getting the jam nut off somehow.

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[The Yeti]

Figured I'd just post here instead of starting a new thread.
There are no dash lights but I scanned for codes for no real reason when I was bored the other day with my Mx+ and there are current "active" codes showing for the steering (I assume the one would have been the code set before I sorted out the steering wheel alignment) and an ABS & bed light short codes. Those 2 seemed weird to me also. Do you need that special 2 plug cable for clearing codes properly on this thing too or why would they still be stored as 'current/active' but not setting dash lights?

 

[The Yeti]

I realize maybe nobody is posting because they figure this has been posted before. I've searched quite a bit and didn't find a whole lot on this particular forum or for these "trucks" posting this here for anyone that happens to stumble across this one day looking for info one day. I ended up buying the 2 plug "Y" cable adapter deal because you can only scan and not clear codes apparently on These things. I was able to clear the codes after hooking uo my Blutooth scanner to the cable. But now I have a "lost connection" history code (doesn't set a dash light but I like to see "no codes present" when I scan). The search continues to figure out what order to do everything so that one is cleared amd doesn't come back. Another note on the "Y cable" dealt tho. When unhooking/unclipping the factory plug. Look at the task at hand while laying awkwardly under the dash with the seat pushed all the way back. Once you realize to tab that needs to be "depressed" is on the back side do everything by feel. This is waaaaay easier. Once the tab is "depressed" use your other finger pr thumb to put some pressure on the plug towards the firewall. This will help make the plug slide freely out of place and then on to the next one using the same tip. Once you get there you should be able to figure out what I mean. Took me a second or 2 but this made quick work of the task at hand.

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