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End link is smoked

j.o.y.ride

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I imagine the bearing is in the end link, And that is just simply unbolting the old one and putting a new one in. Or am I going to need to press the ball out?

If I just got a whole new metal cloak rod is it just a few bolts at that point or do I need a ball press?

Jeep Gladiator End link is smoked PXL_20211027_183854250
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bleda2002

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I imagine the bearing is in the end link, And that is just simply unbolting the old one and putting a new one in. Or am I going to need to press the ball out?

If I just got a whole new metal cloak rod is it just a few bolts at that point or do I need a ball press?

Jeep Gladiator End link is smoked PXL_20211027_183854250
Should just be able to change the tie rod end link.
 

Mojavematt

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Should just be able to take the nut off and knock it out with a hammer. Its not really a press fit or anything.
 

Blade1668

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A "pickle fork" tool is the cheap tool used to remove it by many. I've used on or 2 BF hammers tapping on both sides at same time popping them out.
Next question how many miles have you gone to wear out a tie rod end? The boot looks torn by something. Same as the jackass did replacing the steering gear box on mine.
 

kevman65

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Factory tie rod end should come with ball joint pressed in.

After market tie rod bar install is simple. Put on jackstands, remove wheels, remove both nuts from ball joints, will drop right out. Measure center to center of OEM tie rod and set new tie rod to same measurement, install new tie rod to torque specified in instructions. Measure toe-in/toe-out and make any necessary adjustments.
 

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Mojavematt

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I normally just need a few good hammer whacks. But a pickle fork works as well.
 

Artsifrtsi

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Factory tie rod end should come with ball joint pressed in.

After market tie rod bar install is simple. Put on jackstands, remove wheels, remove both nuts from ball joints, will drop right out. Measure center to center of OEM tie rod and set new tie rod to same measurement, install new tie rod to torque specified in instructions. Measure toe-in/toe-out and make any necessary adjustments.
Except they should never just drop out. You will need a pickle fork, a tie rod end puller, or just a hammer to tap the end the tapered bolt goes through. Remember to leave the bolt loose, but on the threads to prevent it from just dropping out. Also, take measurements of the tie-rod before you start working, whether you are just replacing the end or the whole assembly, you'll want to go back exactly where it started.
 

kevman65

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Except they should never just drop out. You will need a pickle fork, a tie rod end puller, or just a hammer to tap the end the tapered bolt goes through. Remember to leave the bolt loose, but on the threads to prevent it from just dropping out. Also, take measurements of the tie-rod before you start working, whether you are just replacing the end or the whole assembly, you'll want to go back exactly where it started.
Have you changed your tie rod bar on the JT yet? I have. No pickle fork needed. No hammer needed.
 

Renegade

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I imagine the bearing is in the end link, And that is just simply unbolting the old one and putting a new one in. Or am I going to need to press the ball out?

If I just got a whole new metal cloak rod is it just a few bolts at that point or do I need a ball press?

PXL_20211027_183854250.jpg
Is the end bad, or is it just that the boot is torn? It's even simpler to just replace that boot if you have access to a replacement. I've got several in my garage from take-off JL/JT steering systems. I would give you one if you were close.
 

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am1978

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A "pickle fork" tool is the cheap tool used to remove it by many. I've used on or 2 BF hammers tapping on both sides at same time popping them out.
Next question how many miles have you gone to wear out a tie rod end? The boot looks torn by something. Same as the jackass did replacing the steering gear box on mine.
LOL. BFH—haven’t seen that in a while.
 

rharr

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The correct way to hammer out a tappered fitting like the tie rod end is to loosen the nut most of the way but leave a few threads holding the nut. Then take a hammer and wack the side of the steering knuckle where the tie rod taper goes though. imagine wacking the outside of a donut if you had a stick through the middle. The shock of the hammer blow vibrates things enough to get the tappered bond to break loose and the tapper to drop out. The nut keeps the tie rod from dropping to the ground.

I have also seen these jeep tie rod end just drop out of the knuckle when the nut is undone.
 

bleda2002

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After looking more I think the boot is just torn.

Time for a Metalcloak! That's how it works right? $20 part goes bad so spend $450 fixing it.
Why spend 450 when you can step up to an rpm steering 2.5 ton solid 2" aluminum tie rod and spend even more. I'm dying to have an excuse to swap out my tie rod and drag link for a pair
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