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Extension for the factory trailer brake wiring harness?

JAsh1967

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I finally realized where I've got my brake controller mounted is not exactly the best, if I ever need to manually activate the trailer brakes (left side by the door, down low, so I have to lean down to activate.)

I don't want to buy a new controller that might mount similar to the MOPAR brake controller, so I'm looking at moving the controller up to the top of the dash. The problem is, the wiring harness that came with the controller isn't long enough to get any further than JUST to the top of the dash by the drivers' door (I'm planning to use some command hook wiring / lighting clips to keep the wire "neat" up the side of the dash.)

I know I could use some crimp connectors and wire to extend the wiring harness (I'd extend the one that came with the brake controller, easier to replace if I screw up,) but I want "neat," and I want to be able to disconnect it easily (and getting under the dash a bit isn't "easy" enough!) when I don't need the controller.

So, has anyone found / sourced / homemade an extension for the wiring harness? If so, where?
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ShadowsPapa

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I finally realized where I've got my brake controller mounted is not exactly the best, if I ever need to manually activate the trailer brakes (left side by the door, down low, so I have to lean down to activate.)

I don't want to buy a new controller that might mount similar to the MOPAR brake controller, so I'm looking at moving the controller up to the top of the dash. The problem is, the wiring harness that came with the controller isn't long enough to get any further than JUST to the top of the dash by the drivers' door (I'm planning to use some command hook wiring / lighting clips to keep the wire "neat" up the side of the dash.)

I know I could use some crimp connectors and wire to extend the wiring harness (I'd extend the one that came with the brake controller, easier to replace if I screw up,) but I want "neat," and I want to be able to disconnect it easily (and getting under the dash a bit isn't "easy" enough!) when I don't need the controller.

So, has anyone found / sourced / homemade an extension for the wiring harness? If so, where?
Send me the harness and I'll extend the wires for you - the length you want, and it will be neat.
 
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JAsh1967

JAsh1967

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What controller do you have? There may be simple ways to do this if all you're trying to do is move the button.
I probably should've put that in the post, shouldn't I? ?

It's a Tekonsha Prodigy P3, so it's not a "button" unit like the MOPAR or Redarc controllers.
 

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JAsh1967

JAsh1967

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The worst of it is, all I need is a female and male connector, either the ones Tekonsha uses or the ones Jeep uses! I can MAKE the bloody thing! But yeah, I think I'm going to end up picking up some wire of the right gauge and crimp connectors...
 
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JAsh1967

JAsh1967

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Hmm, I wonder if I have any of the cable sleeve material from my PC case-modding days? It'd clean up the wires on that a fair bit.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I have rolls of most common gauges.......... and my thought is to do what we do with wiper switch harnesses - flat sheath. It makes it like a ribbon cable and protects the wires inside. Just one idea, there's a lot of ways to go..

One can use silicone wires for extreme flexibility and heat resistance. Since the one wire is strictly for brake circuit signal, it could actually be a smaller gauge to save "thickness" since it carries no real current. The current carrying wires are the hot lead and the one that goes back to the trailer connector.

Jeep Gladiator Extension for the factory trailer brake wiring harness? 1714070690988-jz
 

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JAsh1967

JAsh1967

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I have rolls of most common gauges.......... and my thought is to do what we do with wiper switch harnesses - flat sheath. It makes it like a ribbon cable and protects the wires inside. Just one idea, there's a lot of ways to go..

One can use silicone wires for extreme flexibility and heat resistance. Since the one wire is strictly for brake circuit signal, it could actually be a smaller gauge to save "thickness" since it carries no real current. The current carrying wires are the hot lead and the one that goes back to the trailer connector.
That looks nice! When I ran the current harness up the side of the dash, just to see how far it would get, the wire did seem to bend fairly easily (and it's mostly a straight shot, anyways,) and I suspect the wire is just stranded (not sure of the gauge though.)
 

ShadowsPapa

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That looks nice! When I ran the current harness up the side of the dash, just to see how far it would get, the wire did seem to bend fairly easily (and it's mostly a straight shot, anyways,) and I suspect the wire is just stranded (not sure of the gauge though.)
Yeah, it will be stranded wire.
Depending on my needs, what I'm building a harness for, or the restoration I'm doing, the deal with silicone wire is the insulation isn't PVC or similar, it's silicone and extremely flexible, and the wire has more strands for the same gauge. It doesn't kink or hold shape.
Not needed in your case - yours is a one and done install, no high heat and you'd prefer the wires stay put once shaped. .
The flat jacket situation would be nice - keeping the wires all together, black, flat, etc.
 

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i Have the Tekonsha P3 and their harness for the JT. I was able to run the harness through the console and into the infotainment center and have it exit in the spare space where the extra Aux buttons would go. Had to remove the inner “cup” in that space and cut a hole in the back of it to run the plug inside that connects to the P3. It’s still a tight fit, and I can barely get it plugged in, but the location is perfect. When you shove the P3 in that space the shifter just barely clears it in Park. I do wish the harness was a little longer for ease of connecting/disconnecting, but it works.
 

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Maybe I need to grab the parts and make up 3 or 4 of these.
can't do much else for another 3 weeks or so, light duty by doc's "recommendations", and that's pretty light duty.
It's also easy enough to use the parts/shells supplied and make 'em longer, too.
 

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I went with the Curt Spectrum brake controller. I used the included tape to attach the knob to the dash near the Start button. Everything else is hidden under the dash below the steering column. I ran the wire for the knob under the edge of the panel, it's barely visible.
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