Factory 2022 (almost optioned out) Rubi suspension height

[chorky]

Can somebody with a factory, or almost factory (no heavy items such as canopy, bumper/winch, etc..) please take 4 measurements for me?

I am looking for the distance between the bump stop plate on the axle, and the bump stop itself (or the bracket it connects to). Or some other measurement. Sharing pictures would also be helpful so I can duplicate the measurement.

Over the weekend I got my RLD canopy installed. I noticed before hand, that the rear lower control arms appeared 'flat' with the ground - so it had the slightest bit of rake when empty. Now that the canopy is on, it does seem to have compressed the suspension some. which makes sense as the canopy is 175 pounds. I also probably have another 40 pounds in the bed currently (813 Molle panels, a hiking pack, empty cooler, chainsaw, bottle jacks, and 2 jack stands).

I forgot to take pre-work measurements - stupid me.... and I do NOT want to take the canopy off as much as a PITA it was to get on in the first place. Please help me out

I am trying to figure out if I am already experiencing squat, or if it is not too terribly bad. Hopefully within the next 2 months I will be getting a RTT coming in. I'm assuming it's going to squat for sure at that point as the RTT will be about 150 pounds plus maybe 15 pounds of mounting hardware - hoping it will not be too bad...... Trying to decide how bad it potentially may be to determine if I will need to get a lift sooner than planned or if I can hold out.

Also...being on the topic - for those in the know (I am not) does the MOPAR 2" lift also provide higher rear spring rate for loaded trucks, or is it a factory spring rate the same as the Rubi? I would like to use the MOPAR kit if at all possible..... To avoid the good ol "not warranty" garbage dealers keep saying. And because I dont really want to go more than 2"

Help me sort out a route to go please. But mostly I really would appreciate a stock rubicon empty weight measurement. For reference, from the factory mine came with the hard top, tonneau cover, and it is almost fully optioned out - does not have ACC option. 2022 Rubi gasser - all stock (except for canopy).


Thank you. Cheers.

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[am1978]

Can somebody with a factory, or almost factory (no heavy items such as canopy, bumper/winch, etc..) please take 4 measurements for me?

I am looking for the distance between the bump stop plate on the axle, and the bump stop itself (or the bracket it connects to). Or some other measurement. Sharing pictures would also be helpful so I can duplicate the measurement.

Over the weekend I got my RLD canopy installed. I noticed before hand, that the rear lower control arms appeared 'flat' with the ground - so it had the slightest bit of rake when empty. Now that the canopy is on, it does seem to have compressed the suspension some. which makes sense as the canopy is 175 pounds. I also probably have another 40 pounds in the bed currently (813 Molle panels, a hiking pack, empty cooler, chainsaw, bottle jacks, and 2 jack stands).

I forgot to take pre-work measurements - stupid me.... and I do NOT want to take the canopy off as much as a PITA it was to get on in the first place. Please help me out

I am trying to figure out if I am already experiencing squat, or if it is not too terribly bad. Hopefully within the next 2 months I will be getting a RTT coming in. I'm assuming it's going to squat for sure at that point as the RTT will be about 150 pounds plus maybe 15 pounds of mounting hardware - hoping it will not be too bad...... Trying to decide how bad it potentially may be to determine if I will need to get a lift sooner than planned or if I can hold out.

Also...being on the topic - for those in the know (I am not) does the MOPAR 2" lift also provide higher rear spring rate for loaded trucks, or is it a factory spring rate the same as the Rubi? I would like to use the MOPAR kit if at all possible..... To avoid the good ol "not warranty" garbage dealers keep saying. And because I dont really want to go more than 2"

Help me sort out a route to go please. But mostly I really would appreciate a stock rubicon empty weight measurement. For reference, from the factory mine came with the hard top, tonneau cover, and it is almost fully optioned out - does not have ACC option.


Thank you. Cheers.

Might want to specify which engine. The diesel is heavy.

 

[chorky]

Might want to specify which engine. The diesel is heavy.

Good call - original post edited. Also currently searching for this info on the forum. I though it was already discussed but haven't fond the thread that talks about it yet.

 

[chorky]

I also have the headliners on the hardtop - from the factory. Only stating that as it was said in another thread that they are quite heavy. I have never removed them so don't know if thats true or not....

 

[WhyNotJeep]

The headliners weigh nothing,,, I was Kidding... But i put 500 pounds in the bed of my Rubicon, gasser, non tow, when it was still factory stock and the rear went down 1 inch. I don't remember what the measurement was.

 

[chorky]

The headliners weigh nothing,,, I was Kidding... But i put 500 pounds in the bed of my Rubicon, gasser, non tow, when it was still factory stock and the rear went down 1 inch. I don't remember what the measurement was.

Ahh ok. Yeah it seems like mine went down an inch just from the canopy. I was surprised to how little space between the bump stops and the axle is even when empty.

 

[chorky]

Reviving this thread.

Looking for the following measurements for the following vehicle

Vehicle
STOCK RUBICON gas engine - it must be completely stock Rubicon - 33" tires, no lift, no gear/accessories/canopy, bone stock

Measurements
Looking for measurements from all 4 sides. Can be up to the fender lip (the split between the upper and lower fender), between axle and frame, or between frame and ground. I think measuring the split between upper and lower fender would be easiest.


I am not stock and trying to determine how much sag I already have from the canopy, MOLLE panels, and a couple goodies. I think I am still at maybe 1/4 to 1/2" rake, but definitely not the 1-1.5" of rake when it was from the factory. Really wanting to keep tabs on where it sits to determine when and what lift to settle on, and make sure its not getting too low in the rear.

 

[GEETCH]

Reviving this thread.

Looking for the following measurements for the following vehicle

Vehicle
STOCK RUBICON gas engine - it must be completely stock Rubicon - 33" tires, no lift, no gear/accessories/canopy, bone stock

Measurements
Looking for measurements from all 4 sides. Can be up to the fender lip (the split between the upper and lower fender), between axle and frame, or between frame and ground. I think measuring the split between upper and lower fender would be easiest.


I am not stock and trying to determine how much sag I already have from the canopy, MOLLE panels, and a couple goodies. I think I am still at maybe 1/4 to 1/2" rake, but definitely not the 1-1.5" of rake when it was from the factory. Really wanting to keep tabs on where it sits to determine when and what lift to settle on, and make sure its not getting too low in the rear.

I dont have the measurements your asking for, however i do understand your concern.
i have a 2021 JTR gasser myself, after installing bumper, winch, plates etc, i was hitting bump stops going over speed bumps at a slow speed (15 mph).

i ended up going with Clayton 2" springs in the rear and the 1.5" springs in the front. the rear are triple rate springs, front is a single rate, however, it did support the added weight very well.

also, i did have the 2" shock extension brackets from my Iron rock 2" spacer lift still installed, i did take out the spacers on the springs when i swapped to the claytons but left the shock extensions.

currently, i have removed all above listed components as i installed the 4.5" clayton expedition full suspension system with falcon shocks and steer damper.

point being, better rated springs will help support and stabilize the added weight.

Swapping springs, including manufacturer from MOPAR, should not void warranty, when it comes to warranties, they would have to prove that that mod caused the issue.

 

[ATL_Rubi]

Reviving this thread.

Looking for the following measurements for the following vehicle

Vehicle
STOCK RUBICON gas engine - it must be completely stock Rubicon - 33" tires, no lift, no gear/accessories/canopy, bone stock

Measurements
Looking for measurements from all 4 sides. Can be up to the fender lip (the split between the upper and lower fender), between axle and frame, or between frame and ground. I think measuring the split between upper and lower fender would be easiest.


I am not stock and trying to determine how much sag I already have from the canopy, MOLLE panels, and a couple goodies. I think I am still at maybe 1/4 to 1/2" rake, but definitely not the 1-1.5" of rake when it was from the factory. Really wanting to keep tabs on where it sits to determine when and what lift to settle on, and make sure its not getting too low in the rear.

I've got a stock, once rock crawled 23 rubi, I'll see if I can get some measurements tonight for you. As mentioned by Geetch, Clayton is killer for the price.

 

[chorky]

I dont have the measurements your asking for, however i do understand your concern.
i have a 2021 JTR gasser myself, after installing bumper, winch, plates etc, i was hitting bump stops going over speed bumps at a slow speed (15 mph).

i ended up going with Clayton 2" springs in the rear and the 1.5" springs in the front. the rear are triple rate springs, front is a single rate, however, it did support the added weight very well.

also, i did have the 2" shock extension brackets from my Iron rock 2" spacer lift still installed, i did take out the spacers on the springs when i swapped to the claytons but left the shock extensions.

currently, i have removed all above listed components as i installed the 4.5" clayton expedition full suspension system with falcon shocks and steer damper.

point being, better rated springs will help support and stabilize the added weight.

Swapping springs, including manufacturer from MOPAR, should not void warranty, when it comes to warranties, they would have to prove that that mod caused the issue.

yeah I just dont want to give a dealer reason to put up a fight like that since there is only one dealer within 4 hours of me and theres plenty of folks here who have had issues like that. So just trying to figure out the best way to minimize that potential situation. I doubt my dealer would do such a thing. but still it can be a big risk.

when you had just the clayton springs in, did it actually give you lift or did it just out you back to a stock height? What other items did you have on board all the time to cause that much sag?

I did speak with someone yesterday about lifts who is very well known in the ‘overland’ off road Jeep community who said that the bushings clayton and metalcloak uses, though good off road, do not hold up to salt and mag chloride road spray. They highly recommend not using them. Its the first ai heard of this and caught me way off guard.

the same person also recomended a 3.5” lift saying that with all the added components, a 3.5” lift will usually net around 2-2.5”. Although I understand, is honestly frustrating to me for reasons stated in other posts. It would be super helpful if manufacturers could provide a ‘minimum lift height’ spec, or specify what their lift will achieve with xxx amount of weight (sorta like what AEV does).

The main issue for me is I really dont want such a lift that makes it hard to get into the truck. That was a main reason i sold my last truck. But having a few more inches to not scrape bottom would be nice. I also dont plan on any larger than 35” tires, and really do not want to be in a position of needing a aftermarket front drive shaft. So what I dont want to have happen is spend 4-5K on a lift from clayton or metalcloak and have it sit way higher than I want or need and then realizing i need additional components like a drive shaft, or reduce off camber stability (like how my TJ is). Which is why I, in another post, talked about considering the mopar lift and later swapping out for aev or dobinson springs if sagging occurred. But this method was also said to ‘not do’

I've got a stock, once rock crawled 23 rubi, I'll see if I can get some measurements tonight for you. As mentioned by Geetch, Clayton is killer for the price.

thank you this would be super awesome!! Im real curious to see what adding various components does to measured height.

 

[ATL_Rubi]

yeah I just dont want to give a dealer reason to put up a fight like that since there is only one dealer within 4 hours of me and theres plenty of folks here who have had issues like that. So just trying to figure out the best way to minimize that potential situation. I doubt my dealer would do such a thing. but still it can be a big risk.

when you had just the clayton springs in, did it actually give you lift or did it just out you back to a stock height? What other items did you have on board all the time to cause that much sag?

I did speak with someone yesterday about lifts who is very well known in the ‘overland’ off road Jeep community who said that the bushings clayton and metalcloak uses, though good off road, do not hold up to salt and mag chloride road spray. They highly recommend not using them. Its the first ai heard of this and caught me way off guard.

the same person also recomended a 3.5” lift saying that with all the added components, a 3.5” lift will usually net around 2-2.5”. Although I understand, is honestly frustrating to me for reasons stated in other posts. It would be super helpful if manufacturers could provide a ‘minimum lift height’ spec, or specify what their lift will achieve with xxx amount of weight (sorta like what AEV does).

The main issue for me is I really dont want such a lift that makes it hard to get into the truck. That was a main reason i sold my last truck. But having a few more inches to not scrape bottom would be nice. I also dont plan on any larger than 35” tires, and really do not want to be in a position of needing a aftermarket front drive shaft. So what I dont want to have happen is spend 4-5K on a lift from clayton or metalcloak and have it sit way higher than I want or need and then realizing i need additional components like a drive shaft, or reduce off camber stability (like how my TJ is). Which is why I, in another post, talked about considering the mopar lift and later swapping out for aev or dobinson springs if sagging occurred. But this method was also said to ‘not do’



thank you this would be super awesome!! Im real curious to see what adding various components does to measured height.

To confirm, what PSI are you currently running? I am at 34-35 cold depending on the day. Might not drastically alter the measurements, but would be good to know if we are far off.

 

[chorky]

To confirm, what PSI are you currently running? I am at 34-35 cold depending on the day. Might not drastically alter the measurements, but would be good to know if we are far off.

same actually. I have them set to 35

 

[GEETCH]

yeah I just dont want to give a dealer reason to put up a fight like that since there is only one dealer within 4 hours of me and theres plenty of folks here who have had issues like that. So just trying to figure out the best way to minimize that potential situation. I doubt my dealer would do such a thing. but still it can be a big risk.

when you had just the clayton springs in, did it actually give you lift or did it just out you back to a stock height? What other items did you have on board all the time to cause that much sag?

I did speak with someone yesterday about lifts who is very well known in the ‘overland’ off road Jeep community who said that the bushings clayton and metalcloak uses, though good off road, do not hold up to salt and mag chloride road spray. They highly recommend not using them. Its the first ai heard of this and caught me way off guard.

the same person also recomended a 3.5” lift saying that with all the added components, a 3.5” lift will usually net around 2-2.5”. Although I understand, is honestly frustrating to me for reasons stated in other posts. It would be super helpful if manufacturers could provide a ‘minimum lift height’ spec, or specify what their lift will achieve with xxx amount of weight (sorta like what AEV does).

The main issue for me is I really dont want such a lift that makes it hard to get into the truck. That was a main reason i sold my last truck. But having a few more inches to not scrape bottom would be nice. I also dont plan on any larger than 35” tires, and really do not want to be in a position of needing a aftermarket front drive shaft. So what I dont want to have happen is spend 4-5K on a lift from clayton or metalcloak and have it sit way higher than I want or need and then realizing i need additional components like a drive shaft, or reduce off camber stability (like how my TJ is). Which is why I, in another post, talked about considering the mopar lift and later swapping out for aev or dobinson springs if sagging occurred. But this method was also said to ‘not do’



thank you this would be super awesome!! Im real curious to see what adding various components does to measured height.

The clayton springs gave a slight lift, but supported the weight much better. It’s not that i really sagged so much, it’s when going over things like pot holes, speed bumps etc it was very soft and easy to hit bump stops. Off roading was much worse, sounded like I was beating the crap out of it lol.
but the Clayton springs did extremely well at minimizing that.
I have a winch and steel front bumper, 180 lbs
The full belly skid I run is steel and is 240 lbs, the box of gear I keep in rhe bed is 120 lbs and I’m 210lbs
Probably keep about 40lbs inside the cab as well.

 

[chorky]

The clayton springs gave a slight lift, but supported the weight much better. It’s not that i really sagged so much, it’s when going over things like pot holes, speed bumps etc it was very soft and easy to hit bump stops. Off roading was much worse, sounded like I was beating the crap out of it lol.
but the Clayton springs did extremely well at minimizing that.
I have a winch and steel front bumper, 180 lbs
The full belly skid I run is steel and is 240 lbs, the box of gear I keep in rhe bed is 120 lbs and I’m 210lbs
Probably keep about 40lbs inside the cab as well.

so was that the 2.5” springs then?? I have seen lots of other posts saying their 3.5” lift gave closer to 4” and the 2.5 over 3”. Maybe those were with no additional weight. once finished my rig will probably be around 500 pounds over stock.

 

[GEETCH]

so was that the 2.5” springs then?? I have seen lots of other posts saying their 3.5” lift gave closer to 4” and the 2.5 over 3”. Maybe those were with no additional weight. once finished my rig will probably be around 500 pounds over stock.

Yes was the 2,5” it is a little taller than posted size for sure but barely moved with the weight, like I said supports it well.

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