Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating

[chorky]

Is anybody using fuses rated at less amperage than the factory for their aux switches?

Switches 1 &2 I believe are 40 amps
Switches 3 & 4 I think are 15 amps

All of my items on these aux switches are less than 10 amps draw. I was considering trying to find a 10a block fuse for switches 1 & 2, and a 5a blade fuse for switches 3 & 4. But I'm not sure if those block fuses for switches 1 and 2 are specific to jeep or if any style from amazon will work.

I just dont have the need for a full 40 amps and would rather reduce the fuse to provide more accurate protection levels.

 

[ecidiego]

Is anybody using fuses rated at less amperage than the factory for their aux switches?

Switches 1 &2 I believe are 40 amps
Switches 3 & 4 I think are 15 amps

All of my items on these aux switches are less than 10 amps draw. I was considering trying to find a 10a block fuse for switches 1 & 2, and a 5a blade fuse for switches 3 & 4. But I'm not sure if those block fuses for switches 1 and 2 are specific to jeep or if any style from amazon will work.

I just dont have the need for a full 40 amps and would rather reduce the fuse to provide more accurate protection levels.

Fuses are there to protect the wire not the device. I'd leave them as is.

 

[chorky]

ect the wire not the device. I'd

I understand this. the wire I am running off of the factory aux switch wire is not capable of handling 40 amps. thus, I want to reduce the fuse to protect the wire.

 

[ecidiego]

I understand this. the wire I am running off of the factory aux switch wire is not capable of handling 40 amps. thus, I want to reduce the fuse to protect the wire.

In that case just put an inline fuse on your added wire.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is anybody using fuses rated at less amperage than the factory for their aux switches?

Switches 1 &2 I believe are 40 amps
Switches 3 & 4 I think are 15 amps

All of my items on these aux switches are less than 10 amps draw. I was considering trying to find a 10a block fuse for switches 1 & 2, and a 5a blade fuse for switches 3 & 4. But I'm not sure if those block fuses for switches 1 and 2 are specific to jeep or if any style from amazon will work.

I just dont have the need for a full 40 amps and would rather reduce the fuse to provide more accurate protection levels.

Pull a fuse, figure out what style and size it is physically, and buy one just like it in the amperage you want.

F103 and F108 are 15 amp
F92 and F93 are 40 amp

Your comment "any style" sort of confused me - Jeep uses standard fuses. The problem is that there are so many standards, it's crazy.
For example, the 12v outlet fuse is a Micro2 fuse. There are multiple sizes of that fuse. And there are fuses of the same shape.......

And there are the cartridge fuses - you call "block fuse".

Cartridge fuses ->

 

[chorky]

Pull a fuse, figure out what style and size it is physically, and buy one just like it in the amperage you want.

F103 and F108 are 15 amp
F92 and F93 are 40 amp

Your comment "any style" sort of confused me - Jeep uses standard fuses. The problem is that there are so many standards, it's crazy.
For example, the 12v outlet fuse is a Micro2 fuse. There are multiple sizes of that fuse. And there are fuses of the same shape.......

And there are the cartridge fuses - you call "block fuse".

Cartridge fuses ->

I meant to say any style of cartridge fuse - couldn't recall their name type. Are they specific to Jeep or are all cartridge fuses the same (aside from the amperage ratings)?

I believe the 15a fuses are both a micro fuse

 

[Summitdan]

Is anybody using fuses rated at less amperage than the factory for their aux switches?

Switches 1 &2 I believe are 40 amps
Switches 3 & 4 I think are 15 amps

All of my items on these aux switches are less than 10 amps draw. I was considering trying to find a 10a block fuse for switches 1 & 2, and a 5a blade fuse for switches 3 & 4. But I'm not sure if those block fuses for switches 1 and 2 are specific to jeep or if any style from amazon will work.

I just dont have the need for a full 40 amps and would rather reduce the fuse to provide more accurate protection levels.

I just use appropriate inline fuses for the items attached to my aux switches, but obviously don’t exceed the max amp ratings on the 40 or 15amp switches.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I prefer to skip the inline fuses when-ever possible. Yet another thing to deal with, another holder out there. If something stops working I want one fuse to look at so I can see why he's wanting to match the fuse to his wiring.
And when you connect wires like I have - I prefer home runs to my junction terminal block. Wire leaves that screw and goes directly to the item it serves. Inline fuse holders are cheap - and cheaply made and it's two more connections in a line. One in - one out. Meh, not for me. Reminds me of the 1970s and my teen years installing cheap fog lights and radios.
Sorry, it's just me. One fuse, correctly sized. One place to look, fewer fuses to keep on hand. It allows the wires to be secured and wrapped.
Personal preference. It's just how I've done things.

 

[Summitdan]

I prefer to skip the inline fuses when-ever possible. Yet another thing to deal with, another holder out there. If something stops working I want one fuse to look at so I can see why he's wanting to match the fuse to his wiring.
And when you connect wires like I have - I prefer home runs to my junction terminal block. Wire leaves that screw and goes directly to the item it serves. Inline fuse holders are cheap - and cheaply made and it's two more connections in a line. One in - one out. Meh, not for me. Reminds me of the 1970s and my teen years installing cheap fog lights and radios.
Sorry, it's just me. One fuse, correctly sized. One place to look, fewer fuses to keep on hand. It allows the wires to be secured and wrapped.
Personal preference. It's just how I've done things.

I get that, and agree to an extent. I do think wiring can be done cleanly and well, even with them. I’d prefer to have easily found bus fuses for accessories, so I know I can find the right one easily. That’s just me though. I have yet to have an inline holder fail, but I’m careful with my wire management.

 

[chorky]

I prefer to skip the inline fuses when-ever possible. Yet another thing to deal with, another holder out there. If something stops working I want one fuse to look at so I can see why he's wanting to match the fuse to his wiring.
And when you connect wires like I have - I prefer home runs to my junction terminal block. Wire leaves that screw and goes directly to the item it serves. Inline fuse holders are cheap - and cheaply made and it's two more connections in a line. One in - one out. Meh, not for me. Reminds me of the 1970s and my teen years installing cheap fog lights and radios.
Sorry, it's just me. One fuse, correctly sized. One place to look, fewer fuses to keep on hand. It allows the wires to be secured and wrapped.
Personal preference. It's just how I've done things.

I get that, and agree to an extent. I do think wiring can be done cleanly and well, even with them. I’d prefer to have easily found bus fuses for accessories, so I know I can find the right one easily. That’s just me though. I have yet to have an inline holder fail, but I’m careful with my wire management.

I think it depends on the application. For example, I have a block fuse buss I'm building for my bed accessories that powers the compressor and switch block fed from a single 4 ga wire. But then there's a negative buss bar for all the grounds to have a central point. And everything between is connectors (thanks to ShadowsPapa) instead of crimp connectors. It looks and feels much more professional and is much easier to work with. But some things of course will still go directly to the battery + and -

But for this purpose, since there is a fuse holder already in the main distribution box I would prefer to just find appropriate sized fuses. I figure I need 15a fuses for the cartritage style ones, and 5a for the mini-fuses. I will have to see the specific style or type of cartridge style Jeep uses here for the Aux switches that are normally 40 amps. Maybe Bennie @AllMoparParts.com knows??

 

[AllMoparParts.com]

I think it depends on the application. For example, I have a block fuse buss I'm building for my bed accessories that powers the compressor and switch block fed from a single 4 ga wire. But then there's a negative buss bar for all the grounds to have a central point. And everything between is connectors (thanks to ShadowsPapa) instead of crimp connectors. It looks and feels much more professional and is much easier to work with. But some things of course will still go directly to the battery + and -

But for this purpose, since there is a fuse holder already in the main distribution box I would prefer to just find appropriate sized fuses. I figure I need 15a fuses for the cartritage style ones, and 5a for the mini-fuses. I will have to see the specific style or type of cartridge style Jeep uses here for the Aux switches that are normally 40 amps. Maybe Bennie @AllMoparParts.com knows??

This info does not seem to be documented anywhere but from photos they appear to be Regular/ATO?

- Benny

 

[ecidiego]

This info does not seem to be documented anywhere but from photos they appear to be Regular/ATO?

- Benny

That's the addon Aux Switch package. People who have them from the factory have everything integrated in the PDC.

 

[sharpsicle]

Not sure why you'd intentionally downgrade the capability of the switches. If you are adding smaller lines to a switch, like your example through a bus bar, fusing each line would be a better approach.

I mean, no point reinventing the wheel.

 

[AllMoparParts.com]

That's the addon Aux Switch package. People who have them from the factory have everything integrated in the PDC.

Got it. When looking at OE I came up with the same doc shown here
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/POWER-DISTRIBUTION-CENTER---AUXILIARY-LAYOUT.pdf

According to the Google machine this is what an M Case fuse looks like

Let me know if there was any additional info we were looking for

- Benny

 

[chorky]

Not sure why you'd intentionally downgrade the capability of the switches. If you are adding smaller lines to a switch, like your example through a bus bar, fusing each line would be a better approach.

I mean, no point reinventing the wheel.

I am not using a buss bar for any item on the Aux switches. I do not need 40 amps for aux 1 or 2. Having a fuse wait until it hits 40 amps to blow could cause a fire. I want to protect the weakest link which is a small wire at about 5 amp capacity. My first posts sounded a little confusing.

Got it. When looking at OE I came up with the same doc shown here
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/POWER-DISTRIBUTION-CENTER---AUXILIARY-LAYOUT.pdf

According to the Google machine this is what an M Case fuse looks like

Let me know if there was any additional info we were looking for

- Benny

so do these have a specific ‘size’ class or distinction then? Or can I just get a 15 amp M case fuse? it might be a little trial and error.

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