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Finally geometry brackets data

RodRecket

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1st they hang 4inches Lower as I measured them. Your not going to bend the factory brackets as they are recessed. And of course it's been discussed how many people post pictures or just run the mouth. And my ride has not changed and steering is great. I believe geometry brackets are not needed and for people that don't wheel. Because with good quality parts and installation you don't need the brackets.
I run adj CAs and AEV geo brackets and wheel! ?‍♂

Jeep Gladiator Finally geometry brackets data 20230406_134546
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Billkowski

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Have the AEV 2inch lift kit coming with the mopar longer control arms for my mojave, gunna try it without the geo brackets. We'll see, if I notice an issue, I'll get them, but would rather not spend the money if I don't have to. Really don't like the idea of lifting 2 inches and then putting something on that hangs down 2 inches.
 
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Mays9185

Mays9185

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I learned the hard way spent money I didn't need to.
 

whysoserious

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If you wheel it, you will hit stuff.
Yes sir! My 2017 (sold) JKUR. 3.5" Metal Cloak. 37" MTR's. No drop bracketry. Hit a lot of rocks on Fordyce and I wasn't wheeling the hard stuff either.
 

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EZRider

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Rancho brackets are significantly cheaper than other manufacturers (AEV, Teraflex, Metal Cloak). Could cost/quality/design of the bracket contributed to its demise? All parts will fail at some point but not all parts are created equal. I’m not saying any of the brackets are better than the other but would like to know because I am trying to decide between drop brackets and adjustable control arms. Like any mod there are pros and cons to the choice we make.
 

SoK66

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Yes sir! My 2017 (sold) JKUR. 3.5" Metal Cloak. 37" MTR's. No drop bracketry. Hit a lot of rocks on Fordyce and I wasn't wheeling the hard stuff either.
I have a 4” Teraflex long arm on my ‘09 JK. I’m only a few hours from Moab, the sliders, control arms and underside of the rig bear many rock scars courtesy of those trails. Scrapes are fine, try not to hit it so hard you bend stuff. If you bend it, hey, you wanna play, you gotta pay.
 
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Mays9185

Mays9185

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All I am saying is you don't need them to have your jeep to be correct. Of course you hit stuff but aren't we all tired of buying stuff and find out we don't need it. The brackets are fine far as quality just when a 5000lb vehicle hits a rock out come not good..
 

mx5red

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Have the AEV 2inch lift kit coming with the mopar longer control arms for my mojave, gunna try it without the geo brackets. We'll see, if I notice an issue, I'll get them, but would rather not spend the money if I don't have to. Really don't like the idea of lifting 2 inches and then putting something on that hangs down 2 inches.
You’ll notice an improvement by increasing your caster since their lifts don’t do that.
You could add geometry brackets.
You could add longer mopar lift LCAs for relatively cheap, that’s a good option. I’m not sure if the caster would be in spec if you used both the longer arms and geometry brackets.
You could get adjustable arms and have to dial it in yourself/get alignment.
I chose brackets and like how it drives.
As far as hitting things, brackets are not as low as your diffs, frame, rock sliders, belly on breakover, etc. I’ve hit them once or twice on badge trails when I basically had the whole belly hitting boulders. And those other spots hit about 50 times more often, most trips don’t touch the brackets but rip up my sliders or diff skids or whatever. There are zero situations where you would hit a geometry bracket and not also grind on your frame or rock slider, or more.
I can appreciate that people may justify other options, but do NOT believe the brackets are off limits for rock crawlers.
You already have arms so drive it and see if you like it and leave it alone if you do.?‍♂
Jeep Gladiator Finally geometry brackets data IMG_3933

Jeep Gladiator Finally geometry brackets data IMG_2012


Edit: pic is to show those brackets are the least scratched thing on the whole jeep?
 
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Billkowski

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You’ll notice an improvement by increasing your caster since their lifts don’t do that.
You could add geometry brackets.
You could add longer mopar lift LCAs for relatively cheap, that’s a good option.
You could get adjustable arms and have to dial it in yourself/get alignment.
I chose brackets and like how it drives.
As far as hitting things, brackets are not as low as your diffs, frame, rock sliders, belly on breakover, etc. I’ve hit them once or twice on badge trails when I basically had the whole belly hitting boulders. And those other spots hit about 50 times more often, most trips don’t touch the brackets but rip up my sliders or diff skids or whatever. There are zero situations where you would hit a geometry bracket and not also grind on your frame or rock slider, or more.
I can appreciate that people may justify other options, but do NOT believe the brackets are off limits for rock crawlers.
IMG_3933.jpeg

IMG_2012.jpeg
Its mostly about another 300 bucks for something I may not even notice the benefit of. I have never been as particular as others on its driving characteristics, I actually like the fact that it will never drive like a car. I am doing the longer control arms though, like you said, cheap add.
 

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jav_eee

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Went to hidden falls a couple of weeks back. While I didn’t do the hard, badass trails I did do some that I thought were pretty gnarly for a first-timer.

that being said, I did not drag my geo brackets at all but I DID drag on the rear LCA mounts. Several times.
 

Wolf Island Diver

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I took my AEV brackets up Potts Mt. in Va. (there’s a Mall at the top of the mountain). It’s supposedly the hardest trail in the state with lots of rock gardens. It’s not Gladiator friendly. It breaks heavily modified rigs. I ran it alone. I scraped up a few things under the truck on 37s. Yes, the brackets got dinged and scratched.

Jeep Gladiator Finally geometry brackets data 1701019676182


Here’s another thing to think about. Some people (me) prefer these brackets for a secondary reason other than being sacrificial: I get to keep running stock control arms that ARE NOT adjustable. I greatly prefer this to adjustable control arms because I’ve had multiple adjustable lower control arms fail on past Jeeps with long arm lifts, at the threaded adjuster. This happened with zero outside evidence of a problem, they were lubricated and the lock nut was tight and checked routinely. I’m a maintenance obsessive. I don’t live in the northeast where they frequently salt the roads. I will always run non-adjustable control arms if I can. I wish more manufactures (any?) would simply set the length for caster and make their LCAs non-adjustable. If you have adjustable control arms, you should take them off and inspect them regularly. I don’t have to worry about any of that with my stock control arms.

I DO have to worry about the FAD which anyone not running aftermarket axles should be much more concerned with than drop brackets. I remember the good old days when part of the whole off roading thing was applying skill to avoid the more sensitive parts of a vehicle rather than fruitlessly trying to eliminate every dangly bit on your rig.
 

Wolf Island Diver

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You’ll notice an improvement by increasing your caster since their lifts don’t do that.
You could add geometry brackets.
You could add longer mopar lift LCAs for relatively cheap, that’s a good option. I’m not sure if the caster would be in spec if you used both the longer arms and geometry brackets.
You could get adjustable arms and have to dial it in yourself/get alignment.
I chose brackets and like how it drives.
As far as hitting things, brackets are not as low as your diffs, frame, rock sliders, belly on breakover, etc. I’ve hit them once or twice on badge trails when I basically had the whole belly hitting boulders. And those other spots hit about 50 times more often, most trips don’t touch the brackets but rip up my sliders or diff skids or whatever. There are zero situations where you would hit a geometry bracket and not also grind on your frame or rock slider, or more.
I can appreciate that people may justify other options, but do NOT believe the brackets are off limits for rock crawlers.
You already have arms so drive it and see if you like it and leave it alone if you do.?‍♂
IMG_3933.jpeg

IMG_2012.jpeg
Probably just heading to the mall. SMH
 
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Mays9185

Mays9185

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You’ll notice an improvement by increasing your caster since their lifts don’t do that.
You could add geometry brackets.
You could add longer mopar lift LCAs for relatively cheap, that’s a good option. I’m not sure if the caster would be in spec if you used both the longer arms and geometry brackets.
You could get adjustable arms and have to dial it in yourself/get alignment.
I chose brackets and like how it drives.
As far as hitting things, brackets are not as low as your diffs, frame, rock sliders, belly on breakover, etc. I’ve hit them once or twice on badge trails when I basically had the whole belly hitting boulders. And those other spots hit about 50 times more often, most trips don’t touch the brackets but rip up my sliders or diff skids or whatever. There are zero situations where you would hit a geometry bracket and not also grind on your frame or rock slider, or more.
I can appreciate that people may justify other options, but do NOT believe the brackets are off limits for rock crawlers.
You already have arms so drive it and see if you like it and leave it alone if you do.?‍♂
IMG_3933.jpeg

IMG_2012.jpeg
It's the break over point where the brackets will get hit. This is what everyone forgets about.
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