ShadowsPapa
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
- Threads
- 180
- Messages
- 29,422
- Reaction score
- 34,994
- Location
- Runnells, Iowa
- Vehicle(s)
- '22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
- Occupation
- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
- Vehicle Showcase
- 3
- Thread starter
- #1
ESY4002B - used only on 67-69 AMC Rambler American and the SC/Rambler. Since most of the American series were budget cars, most had vacuum wipers. That makes the 4002B difficult to find in any condition at all, let alone with a mounting plate that had NO rust thanks to some joker shooting on two coats of VERY heavy white enamel years ago. I spent a long time getting the paint off and the wiring pigtail was iffy (that's the one I am looking for and would pay a very fair price for!) but it turned out great.
All plating of clear, yellow and black zinc done by me. These SC/Rambler owners are picky about the finish and know they didn't have bright zinc back then so don't want that ultra-blinding shine on the yellow zinc.
This one is complete and shipped out today.
The customer or someone tried scraping some of the paint off. Thankfully, they quit or gave up! Never use mechanical means like scraping or sanding. You forever change the surface of the substrate and it will never plate the same as it originally looked and any "damaged" surfaces will show up in the final finish.
I dislike working with paint removers and on this paint, the paint remover didn't work so well, so I normally use electrolysis to loosen it up. I use the process to de-rust parts anyway, paint loosening or removal is just a nice side-effect. You can see the commutator/brush end plate down in the bucket.
Mounting plate after electrolysis and a go at it with paint remover............. used paint remover on it again to get the rest off.
After the acid bath to remove all traces of zinc plating (and any rust not removed by electrolysis, but there was pretty much no rust on this one)
One of the pole shoe screws simply refused to come out. Rust and age. So I clamped it onto my drill press bed and drilled it out. Hit dead center so the screw head popped off leaving the threaded part in the pole shoe which I was able to extract without too much trouble.
Field windings removed - you can see the rust inside the motor frame and the two piece pole shoe screw laying there next to the upper winding.
Pretty rusty inside so I mounted it on my lathe and cleaned it up inside, removed all paint with electrolysis and paint remover, then into the acid bath to remove the tough rust and all traces of zinc plating.
Parts zinc plated, now to the electrical part - restore the field windings, re-cover the leads with cloth insulation, rivet the bronze bushings back in place with brass semi-tubular rivets, etc.
Brush holder riveted back onto motor end plate -
New reproduction mounting plate to firewall seal, re-riveted the brass ground strap to the mounting plate.
He was missing the park cam/eccentric assembly and I happened to have some decent parts, and a couple of NOS (New, Old Stock) parts I'd grabbed at a swap meet and got him all set up, it's ready to install. Those park eccentrics are rare and some guy on eBay is asking $100 for 'em. That's the pieces on the end of the output crank.
Park tested and the park angle checked and is right on spec.
This is the type of car it's going into.............. it would look very much like this -
All plating of clear, yellow and black zinc done by me. These SC/Rambler owners are picky about the finish and know they didn't have bright zinc back then so don't want that ultra-blinding shine on the yellow zinc.
This one is complete and shipped out today.
The customer or someone tried scraping some of the paint off. Thankfully, they quit or gave up! Never use mechanical means like scraping or sanding. You forever change the surface of the substrate and it will never plate the same as it originally looked and any "damaged" surfaces will show up in the final finish.
I dislike working with paint removers and on this paint, the paint remover didn't work so well, so I normally use electrolysis to loosen it up. I use the process to de-rust parts anyway, paint loosening or removal is just a nice side-effect. You can see the commutator/brush end plate down in the bucket.
Mounting plate after electrolysis and a go at it with paint remover............. used paint remover on it again to get the rest off.
After the acid bath to remove all traces of zinc plating (and any rust not removed by electrolysis, but there was pretty much no rust on this one)
One of the pole shoe screws simply refused to come out. Rust and age. So I clamped it onto my drill press bed and drilled it out. Hit dead center so the screw head popped off leaving the threaded part in the pole shoe which I was able to extract without too much trouble.
Field windings removed - you can see the rust inside the motor frame and the two piece pole shoe screw laying there next to the upper winding.
Pretty rusty inside so I mounted it on my lathe and cleaned it up inside, removed all paint with electrolysis and paint remover, then into the acid bath to remove the tough rust and all traces of zinc plating.
Parts zinc plated, now to the electrical part - restore the field windings, re-cover the leads with cloth insulation, rivet the bronze bushings back in place with brass semi-tubular rivets, etc.
Brush holder riveted back onto motor end plate -
New reproduction mounting plate to firewall seal, re-riveted the brass ground strap to the mounting plate.
He was missing the park cam/eccentric assembly and I happened to have some decent parts, and a couple of NOS (New, Old Stock) parts I'd grabbed at a swap meet and got him all set up, it's ready to install. Those park eccentrics are rare and some guy on eBay is asking $100 for 'em. That's the pieces on the end of the output crank.
Park tested and the park angle checked and is right on spec.
This is the type of car it's going into.............. it would look very much like this -
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