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Gladiator driving characteristics? Bobblehead?

gearhead22

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I purchased my gladiator used in early July of this year. It’s a rubicon and had a 2.5” spacer lift already installed. I noticed how soft the suspension was, the jeep felt wiggly and gave me the bobble head feeling, which I know is a common characteristic of jeeps. A few weeks after I installed a Metalcloak 3.5” game changer lift and was hoping it would stiffen things up and eliminate or reduce that. Upon completion and initial driving of the lift, it was definitely more firm, planted and drove like a traditional vehicle with less wiggle and bobblehead feel. A weeks went by and I decided to change the ball joints, which led into doing the wheel hubs and front brakes too. The jeep seems more wiggly again, I don’t know how to describe it. But when going down the streets around me, which aren’t very flat, the jeep just kind of wiggles side to side back and forth and my head shakes all around. As I said I know it’s somewhat common but is there any way to eliminate or greatly reduce this? I was hoping the suspension would but it appears now that it’s settled and mostly broke in, that the suspension isn’t the answer. Just a characteristic of a solid axle jeep with front and rear track bars?
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Hootbro

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What shocks were installed. Did Geometry Correction Brackets get installed? Did the rear driveshaft center support bearing get a drop spacer installed? I would also be checking track bar torque and steering end link torques on the knuckles. May also need to upgrade the steering linkage if still running the OEM stuff with that lift.

IMHO, anything above 2.5" and you are in way different territory that pushes the suspension to points you will almost never get back that "factory ride" 100%.
 
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gearhead22

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What shocks were installed. Did Geometry Correction Brackets get installed? Did the rear driveshaft center support bearing get a drop spacer installed? I would also be checking track bar torque and steering end link torques on the knuckles. May also need to upgrade the steering linkage if still running the OEM stuff with that lift.

IMHO, anything above 2.5" and you are in way different territory that pushes the suspension to points you will almost never get back that "factory ride" 100%.
Metalcloak rocksport ref shocks, no geo correction, yes carrier bearing drop, all bolts have been rechecked.
 

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I would be looking at Geo Correction Brackets then.

On my 2022 Rubicon JT, I had a Franken 2" lift on it that was a bit bouncy also. Installed a complete AEV 2.5" lift that had Geo Correction Brackets for the front and I also installed a set of Geo Correction Brackets for the rear from TeraFlex that leveled out my control arms geometry and it was about 95% back to the stable factory ride. Made a world of difference.
 

2tall

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2.5” body shocks control the bounce much better. Not cheap but very noticeable change.
 

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gearhead22

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2.5” body shocks control the bounce much better. Not cheap but very noticeable change.
From my understanding the rock port shocks are softly valved. Maybe 5100’s would have been better for on street performance but I was concerned they would be too stiff for my liking.
 

Gladiatorx2

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I had previously a Gladiator Rubicon on 37's with an AEV 2" lift w/Fox oem shocks. It rode very well but the term "bobble head " was very accurate . Especially off road.

On my current Rubicon I have the Rough Country 3.5 lift with the upgraded Nitrogen Shocks. It rides firmer, which I like and it literally has none of the bobble head feeling. This is on 37's as well.
 

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What shocks were installed. Did Geometry Correction Brackets get installed? Did the rear driveshaft center support bearing get a drop spacer installed? I would also be checking track bar torque and steering end link torques on the knuckles. May also need to upgrade the steering linkage if still running the OEM stuff with that lift.

IMHO, anything above 2.5" and you are in way different territory that pushes the suspension to points you will almost never get back that "factory ride" 100%.
I hated the factory ride . Swayed and bounced off the bumpstops front end would bounce while climbing steep as shocks were crap. I dont ever want to go back.
 
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gearhead22

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I had previously a Gladiator Rubicon on 37's with an AEV 2" lift w/Fox oem shocks. It rode very well but the term "bobble head " was very accurate . Especially off road.

On my current Rubicon I have the Rough Country 3.5 lift with the upgraded Nitrogen Shocks. It rides firmer, which I like and it literally has none of the bobble head feeling. This is on 37's as well.
I assume it’s just a characteristic of the solid front axle with track bars. On a traditional ifs set each wheel can move independently up front, on a solid axle when one side cycles the other also moves some as they’re attached via the axle.
 

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I hated the factory ride . Swayed and bounced off the bumpstops front end would bounce while climbing steep as shocks were crap. I dont ever want to go back.
That describes my 2020 Overland after I put Rubicon springs and shocks on it. I said to myself - never again. Did not like those shocks paired with those springs.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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I assume it’s just a characteristic of the solid front axle with track bars. On a traditional ifs set each wheel can move independently up front, on a solid axle when one side cycles the other also moves some as they’re attached via the axle.
Doesn't have to be that way - one end can absolutely move independently - yes, the other will "tip" but it doesn't have to go down or up. Shocks - good ones, help that a lot, as well a good sway bar setup.
Think back to the ZJ and WJ - rides like a dream, even in very rough ground. One person I know described their ZJ as a "4 wheel drive Cadillac". (that family was used to the very best)
 

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That describes my 2020 Overland after I put Rubicon springs and shocks on it. I said to myself - never again. Did not like those shocks paired with those springs.
They also wore out quite quickly. By 35k my stock Rubicon shocks and springs were bouncy bouncy to the point I realized I had to replace them. Falcon 2.2 shocks set soft and Clayton triple rate HD springs had her riding better than the day I drove off the lot.

I can't imagine why Jeep didn't spec multi rate springs for the gladiator. A soft rate helps take advantage of the articulation you enjoy with solid axles so I get that. But many users choose the gladiator for the towing and hauling advantage over the wrangler and you need a higher spring rate for that. With a heavy trailer squatting into the second spring stage benefits handling.

I believe the stock shocks were being overworked by the overly soft OEM springs. Excess heat consequent to cycling through so much stroke reduces damping performance further exacerbating wear on the suspension. Properly set up now I find the truck much more taut and planted. I'd bet if I monitored shock temperatures bed and after upgrading there would be a demonstrable improvement.

A downside depending on your sensitivity is that the truck isn't quite as smooth over minor road imperfections but in return she takes bigger hits more gracefully.
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