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Ham radio install

Recalcitrant270

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I just got the radio I am going to install (Icom 5100a deluxe) and trying to decide on whether or not to run 10 Ga. wire from the battery into the cab or use the 30 amp accessory switch. Anybody using one of their accessory switches to power a radio and how is the result? Thoughts and opinions welcomed.
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Vicegrips

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Seems like you'll need 13A for the radio at max transmit. I haven't installed a rig yet, but I made sure the aux switch package was on the truck. I plan on using the aux switch facility as it's fused and rated to carry the load of such a transmitter. I understand the switches can be programmed to provide different on/off remember settings through starts and such. I also have one of these that I might use for something with lower power requirements. -KJ1M
 
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Recalcitrant270

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Seems like you'll need 13A for the radio at max transmit. I haven't installed a rig yet, but I made sure the aux switch package was on the truck. I plan on using the aux switch facility as it's fused and rated to carry the load of such a transmitter. I understand the switches can be programmed to provide different on/off remember settings through starts and such. I also have one of these that I might use for something with lower power requirements. -KJ1M
I will probably install a small CB radio as well at some point which is why I was thinking the 30 amp but I can always change it. Do you have a D-Star radio? -KO4FDQ
 

Vicegrips

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No D-Star at the moment. I'll be shopping for a new radio to put in the truck. You doing a hood mount for antenna, or another solution? I still have temp plate, so I'm not anxious to cut stuff up yet.
 

AggieJeep

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I will probably install a small CB radio as well at some point which is why I was thinking the 30 amp but I can always change it. Do you have a D-Star radio? -KO4FDQ
A CB will not take 30 amps. You can use aux 3 or 4 for that and save 1 and 2 for heavier loads.
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wannajeep

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30A is going to be overkill, but I can't recall if other aux switches are rated any lower.

In the past Jeeps I've done CB/ham installs running 20 gauge wire direct to the battery, via the rubber grommet in the upper driver's side corner of the engine bay, where the wiper washer fluid tube goes through. This was a PITA to access from the inside of the cab, but with enough cursing and body twisting, you could fish the wires into the cabin.

Since you have the aux switches, I'd opt for those, because of the ease of installation alone.

The harder part might be finding space in the cabin to mount the 5100 :) Thinking a Ram style mount on the dashboard tray might be the way to go.

73 and enjoy your new rig.
 

Jay Gatsby

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I installed a 5100A in my JT. I recommend using Icom's own power cable, either the OPC-347 or OPC-1132 or similar and run it through the firewall to the battery. Connect positive to battery, negative to one of the grounding posts in the egine compartment next to battery or close to radio. Ran my cable through rubber boot on passenger side firewall. While connecting radio to AUX switch is convenient, it's not ideal. If you have radio problems, having a direct connection to battery simplifies troubleshooting.
 
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Recalcitrant270

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No D-Star at the moment. I'll be shopping for a new radio to put in the truck. You doing a hood mount for antenna, or another solution? I still have temp plate, so I'm not anxious to cut stuff up yet.
I made this for the antenna the other day.

antennamount.jpg
 
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Recalcitrant270

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I installed a 5100A in my JT. I recommend using Icom's own power cable, either the OPC-347 or OPC-1132 or similar and run it through the firewall to the battery. Connect positive to battery, negative to one of the grounding posts in the egine compartment next to battery or close to radio. Ran my cable through rubber boot on passenger side firewall. While connecting radio to AUX switch is convenient, it's not ideal. If you have radio problems, having a direct connection to battery simplifies troubleshooting.
Have any pictures would love to see your setup.
 
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Recalcitrant270

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30A is going to be overkill, but I can't recall if other aux switches are rated any lower.

In the past Jeeps I've done CB/ham installs running 20 gauge wire direct to the battery, via the rubber grommet in the upper driver's side corner of the engine bay, where the wiper washer fluid tube goes through. This was a PITA to access from the inside of the cab, but with enough cursing and body twisting, you could fish the wires into the cabin.

Since you have the aux switches, I'd opt for those, because of the ease of installation alone.

The harder part might be finding space in the cabin to mount the 5100 :) Thinking a Ram style mount on the dashboard tray might be the way to go.

73 and enjoy your new rig.
I ordered the CB bar from [Banned Site] (way-a-life remove the dashes) so will mount it above the mirror. I was going to get a overhead molle panel but didn't want to drill into the Jeep. I think at some point I will get the molle panel and mod it to connect to the CB Bar instead of drilling into the front bar. I plan on mounting the head unit to a ram bar dash mount.
 

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I might suggest a vector offroad rail system that you can mount direct to the upper dash, in factory locations (no drilling/ modifications) and then mount the radio to an attachment to that. They can combine with 67 design mounts for phone, table and other accessories. see below
Jeep Gladiator Ham radio install Vector-Bar
. that is what I will eventually do for phone and tablet (for using GIAI GPS)
 

sarguy1941

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If you have aux switches in the pasenger area where the switch wires are there is a battery and ignition lead. Both fused. I used the battery for my FTM400 and the ignition for the CB. I think the manual said 15 and 30 for fuses but double check.
 

AggieJeep

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From the manual.
Jeep Gladiator Ham radio install 1595801619568


The aux wiring for battery and ignition is only 10 amps. A CB is very little current draw but a HAM rig often needs much more. Always consult the specs for the equipment involved.

Best practice is to go to the battery rather than through an aux power system like this. Comms power should be a dedicated facility. RF is tricky and should a radio begin leaking or inducing RF into the power lead, strange things can happen. With all in good working order, power from an aux lead will work just fine. Let the system develop an RF hiccup and you may find yourself wondering why your lockers disengaged unexpectedly.
 
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eaglerugby04

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So I got a magnetic antenna for my other cars yesterday. Decided to test on the JT just to see. There was absolutly nowhere it would work, lol. With no roof, and the hood and my diamondback HD being aluminum there was no usable surface at all. Getting one mounted on here is going to be interesting, that is for sure
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