Having trouble removing the main battery. Help. Please.

[Jabakkarabbit]

I did a search and it seems as though I'm in the running for least mechanically inclined dude on the forum. Battery died and bought a new one. Unbolted a few bolts and hit a dead end so I tried Youtube. There are no Jeep Gladiator battery removal videos...only aux batteries.

But there are enough similarities between the Wrangler and Gladiator that I figured out I was doing it wrong. Apparently you need to only take off one nut from each terminal.

On the positive, there is a small bar that seems to be holding the terminal in place even when you loosen the bolt. How do I get it off? It also seems to be held in place by a bracket to keep it from wiggling so I'm stuck and need to get all this done before morning.

In the Wrangler vid, there was a plastic clip holding the positive also, but I don't think the Gladiator battery has that.

Ugh!

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[KVJ]

Watch the whole video

Good luck
@Jabakkarabbit

 

[Lunentucker]

What you want starts around 4:30
You don't have to remove the air box and all. Just do the battery removal.

 

[Gatorized]

The Aux and Main batteries are in parallel so be sure the positive clamp is wrapped to prevent it hitting ground while it is disconnected… or you could blow the $$$ fuse at N3.

 

[Jabakkarabbit]

I did something wrong for sure.

Got the plastic clip loose and switched batteries.

Hop in the Jeep. Hit the button. POWER!!! It worked!

Then, I notice the radio, instead of the red tint on my Rubicon 8" radio, it's now blue. And Sirius XM is missing. Completely. And the back-up camera doesn't come up at all.

The phone contacts are still there and the phone is still pared though. I was gonna post pics, but you get the idea.

Where did I mess up?

 

[Jabakkarabbit]

I didn't wrap the positive, and when I unbolted all the cables on the negative, they touched and sparked. How do I fix this mess?

 

[Mr._Bill]

The Uconnect 8.4 can take up to 24 hours to return to normal operation after being reset (power loss). Just hope you didn't blow the big fuse mentioned earlier. They are expensive to replace.

 

[Jabakkarabbit]

I'll know in the morning then. For now, instead of worrying, I'll just take comfort in the long reset.

 

[Lunentucker]

Yeah. That stuff takes some time to come back. You can change your color settings on the screen later if it doesn't.

 

[jebiruph]

I didn't wrap the positive, and when I unbolted all the cables on the negative, they touched and sparked. How do I fix this mess?

If you got sparks from the positive cable, there's almost no way you didn't blow the N3 fuse. If that's the case, it will run for a while until the aux battery runs down and then your stranded. Here's a link that explains it. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...on-and-ess-n3-fuse-warning.66247/post-1401203

 

[Lunentucker]

If you got sparks from the positive cable, there's almost no way you didn't blow the N3 fuse. If that's the case, it will run for a while until the aux battery runs down and then your stranded. Here's a link that explains it. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...on-and-ess-n3-fuse-warning.66247/post-1401203

Well I learned something new.
I had no idea that the N terminals all have fuses under them.




Side note, I swear I've heard that guy telling a story about a boat ride.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you got sparks from the positive cable, there's almost no way you didn't blow the N3 fuse. If that's the case, it will run for a while until the aux battery runs down and then your stranded. Here's a link that explains it. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...on-and-ess-n3-fuse-warning.66247/post-1401203

I think he was referring to the negative terminal cable sparking. It will spark!

>> I unbolted all the cables on the negative, they touched and sparked. <<

Yes, when the negative cables touch the negative post, it will definitely spark. That isn't a problem.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well I learned something new.
I had no idea that the N terminals all have fuses under them.




Side note, I swear I've heard that guy telling a story about a boat ride.

Not all do. N1 and N2 do not - they go straight to the bus, unfused.
N4 is empty - nothing connected to it. There's a fuse but the terminal is empty, it's an auxiliary connection if you need extra power from the PDC, fused at 150.
N8 is connected directly to alternator output, unfused.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'll know in the morning then. For now, instead of worrying, I'll just take comfort in the long reset.

As long as you protected the positive cable from touching anything, you are fine.
It's very normal to have the NEGATIVE cable spark if or when it touches at the battery negative terminal. That is because there is always a small draw.
Taking the ground cable off the negative main battery post then letting it touch the negative battery terminal again after a bit you will get sparks.
It's the positive you really must be watchful of.
My bet - you are fine.

 

[Jabakkarabbit]

Yeah, it was the negative that sparked. Positive just kinda stayed in the red rubbery protector.

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