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HOW TO: Locking Gladiator back seat bottom or locking under seat storage

dparker1901

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I really appreciate the fact that Jeep made a way for the back of the rear seats to lock but there is VERY little space back there to put anything significant.

The basic storage bin under the seat is adequate for me size wise except the seat bottoms don’t lock in the down position. REALLY Jeep?

So, I have seen a few solutions but they were way too elaborate for my wants and they all required me to carry more keys and I HATE carrying keys.

So... here is my solution.

You will need the following tools
1. a drill & 1/4
2. a hacksaw or cutoff wheel
3. 11mm socket or box wrench
4. Set or clamps or a bench vise
5. 3lb hammer or sledge for bending the hasp

You will need to following parts:

1. Two gate gasps from Lowe’s https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-7-25-in-Steel-Hasp/50056607

2. Twelve 1/4x1.5” pan-head bolts

3. Twelve lock washers

4. Twelve 1/4” nuts

5. Eight 1/4” fender washers

6. Two Bolt padlocks for CENTER-CUTJeep key. https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bolt-lock-padlock-7032288/_/R-FHBL-7032288

1. Unzip the two zippers on each cushion on the underside of the seat.
2. There is a J-channel that attaches this flap to the back of the seat bottom. Just slide it all the way to one end and it will come apart.
3. Flip the flap up and out of the way
4. Disconnect the two cross straps. One is in the middle of the seatThe cross straps disconnect like a woman’s bra. Not trying to be crude but it’s the best example.
5. No you can carefully slide the corner of the seat cover nearest the door over the frame to expose the metal frame that we will be working with.
6. Lay the hasp on the plastic base and mark where you want the bend. You want the hineed hasp to be ver hang the plastic base by about 3/8” of an inch so there is enough clearance for the padlock keeper and bolts.
7. Using either clamps or your bench vise and the hammer bend the hasp where you want it. Fortunately this metal is pretty thought as I had to bend mine twice to get it right.
8. Place your bend hasp on the seat frame and mark where you will have yo cut off so it doesn’t push into the foam padding. You can also mark where you want to drill two holes that will go thru the hasp and thru the frame. I positioned my hasp so it was just barely touching the plastic base and not mashing it down when you drop the seat.
9. Cut off and drill hasp
10. At this point I took my pieces to a local guy for powder coating. Since I just wanted semigloss black he threw them in with another order and I had them back the next day for $20!
11. Carefully cut a slit in the base fabric of your seat.
11. Pass the bent end of your haps thru the fabrics and bolt hasp to seat frame with a lock washer on each side of the frame.
12. Using the folding hasp as a position guide position the keeper and clamp in place.
13. Drill four holes squarely thru the plastic bin using the four holes in the keeper as a template.
14. Place pan-head bolt thru keeper, thru plastic, thru fender washer and then lockwasher and snug down with a nut. I made a single metal plate instead of the fender washers but the washers will work just fine.
15. Using your saw or cutoff wheel cut the extra bolt length tight at the nut
16. Key your padlocks using your key fob per the included instructions.
17. OPTIONAL - I wanted the padlock to blend in a little more and was concerned that the padlock would rattle on every rock I drove over so I slid 1/2” shrink tube over the shackle of the padlock and using a heat gun, hair dryer I shrink it down to fit.
17. Now lock up your winch controller, recovered gear and loud items and then sit back and admire your handiwork!

Have fun!

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mountainpass

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I assume the passenger side hasp is in same location, if so by lifting in center does seat deflect enough to reach in?
 
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dparker1901

dparker1901

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Only about 1/2” max deflection. Not getting anything out with my fat fingers!
 

mountainpass

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Only about 1/2” max deflection. Not getting anything out with my fat fingers!
Thanks. I was looking at this one that is already black and wondered if you thought it would work(yes I imagine where I bend it it might lose it's coating but that part wouldn't be seen). Its longer by a couple of inches but I don't see an issue, was hoping you might look at it and see if you had any concerns. If I were to go this route and it doesn't work I could always return it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Onward-9-3-16-in-Steel-Black-Heavy-Duty-Hasp-320FBR/301847657
 
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dparker1901

dparker1901

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Thanks. I was looking at this one that is already black and wondered if you thought it would work(yes I imagine where I bend it it might lose it's coating but that part wouldn't be seen). Its longer by a couple of inches but I don't see an issue, was hoping you might look at it and see if you had any concerns. If I were to go this route and it doesn't work I could always return it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Onward-9-3-16-in-Steel-Black-Heavy-Duty-Hasp-320FBR/301847657
As long as the finish doesn’t flake when you bend it, that should work perfectly. If the tail end (the side you will bend) is too long, mark where you will drill your holes and then where the top of the seat frame is and just cut it flush with the top of the seat frame.

The other thing is that since your hasp isn’t zinc coated, like mine was, a can of black semigloss Krylon should freshen it up nicely!
 

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gryffinn

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stupid question probably - confirming, this works with key only, not unlock via fob right?
 

abe57

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Great write up. The only problem I see with the locks working off your original key would the places I would worry the most with someone getting into it is when you take the Jeep in for repairs being a dealership or other repair shops !
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