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Repair Rear Defogger Tabs on Hardtop

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Tortooga Custom Works

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I went to take the roof off, touched this and it broke.

It's the passenger side bus bar for the rear window defroster on the hardtop.
I think I just need to resolder it on.

IMG_0795.JPG


EDIT 2019-08-06:
I tried two different kits to fix this, the first was from PepBoys and is readily available. It is the Permatex 09117 Complete Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit. It has bits to fix even the lines on the defroster.
The issue with this kit is that the activator is just a wipe. You can't get enough onto an area - I feel. I'm not a pro.
Anyway, I followed the instructions, but within about 6 hours it had separated again.

Then I found this kit, which is only has liquid activator in a vial and the conductive epoxy.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Loctite/LT21351.html

This kit worked perfectly because I was able to actually "apply" the activator exactly where I needed it.
The epoxy got a strong hold, and I think even more of a hold than from the factory.

All is well. It works again!
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Hootbro

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SleepyJeep

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Lot of suggestions on that thread but as @Hootbro said looks like they use some kinda epoxy conductive glue that doesn't always work LOL. Maybe, you are better off just soldering it. I just feel like going to the dealership to get the entire rear window replaced for that is kinda too much.
 
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oh wow. I didn't even think to check the jl forum.

I'm going to just try and solder tonight. The stuff on it looks like solder, so i'm going to try heating that up and sticking it back on.
 
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I read some of that thread. I take it back. I won't use solder. I'll actually just get the Mopar® Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit. Part number: 04549275AB.
 

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Soldering that connection is a VERY tough thing to do. The contact conductor on the window is very thin and easily wicked off. I would recommend having the dealership warranty replace it. It should not be breaking off that easy.

Aaron
 

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Will that kit work for re-installing the connector?
there is a tube of the epoxy in the kit, along with other bits to actually fix the defrosting strips themselves.
That epoxy is what you use to fix the connector.
 
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Soldering that connection is a VERY tough thing to do. The contact conductor on the window is very thin and easily wicked off. I would recommend having the dealership warranty replace it. It should not be breaking off that easy.

Aaron
Yea, I won’t solder it. The epoxy seems like the way to go, and there a lot of good experiences fixing it with the epoxy.
 

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I read some of that thread. I take it back. I won't use solder. I'll actually just get the Mopar® Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit. Part number: 04549275AB.
So I got a kit from PepBoys, the Permatex 09117 Complete Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit.

The instructions are a doozy. I don't think I followed them very well. In particular it says to add just a "drop" of the epoxy to the tab and then hold the tab down against the glass. I couldn't quite get a "drop" - I may have put too much. I don't know. It held for a few hours, but then separated again.

I'm going to get the mopar kit for the sake of trying it. If I fail with that one, I'll just mention it when I go for an oil change soon.

I noticed that the center of the glass does not frost up as much, the sliding window that is. The sides fog up and get a lot more wet. So I'll be fine with it not working for a bit anyway.
 
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Ok I lied... I found this at etrailer.com: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Loctite/LT21351.html

I ordered that. The activator is actual it's own separate container of liquid. In the permatex kit the activator was a wipe, which I think made it difficult to really get it where you needed it.

I'm also thinking that the next time I try this I'll remove the hardtop and having it laying on it's back... I think. Considering my laziness, probably not. But maybe I will.
 

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I you try to solder and you over heat the glass, the glass will shatter. The heat differential if to great will shatter solving the loose connecter.
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