tweak89
Well-Known Member
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This past week I installed a set of Mopar splash guards. As some may know, the Sport S with Max Tow is apparently different when it comes to the rear fender liner goes. Brands like Weathertech state the their rear splash guards DO NOT work with the Sport S Max Tow, but do not really show/tell why. I even called and they didn't have an answer. Mopar doesn't state that that there is a different part for Max Tow, so I picked up a set from my local Jeep dealership. But, lo and behold, the rear was significantly different. The difference? The Max Tow version of the fender liner is "smoother" than the ones used for all other models. Why? Who knows. Maybe the same reason they fill in the gap between the fender and bumper for the Max Tow package. Anyway, now you know! I had to order the correct parts for the rear and got them exchanged a few days later.
So, installation is pretty straightforward. Unlike some youtube videos I have seen, the latest versions of these use plastic rivets instead of reusing the push fasteners and do require some drilling. I did have to buy a plastic rivet tool, got mine off of Amazon for $25. You can do it without, but I opted to do it with the correct tool.
The front set requires 1 new hole (1/4" drill) to be drilled. You remove the existing plastic rivets and one push in fastener. AS you can see, I have nerf bars and they DO NOT interfere. They are the Rough Country nerf bars (Identical to the N-Fab bars).
The rear set requires 3 new holes (1/4" drill) and re-uses 1 hole. The single push fastener is replaced with a plastic rivet. As you can see the profile of the fender liner is pretty "smooth" or flat. All other models of the JT have a "hump" for lack of a better term hat occurs about halfway in towards the wheel well. It creats about a 1" stand off from the fender liner. In the image below the you can imagine that stand off right where the innermost rivet is.
Take note, that if you are using a standard drill and /or a rivet tool you will need to remove the rear wheel to get enough room to drill the the inner hole and use the rivet tool.
I
So, installation is pretty straightforward. Unlike some youtube videos I have seen, the latest versions of these use plastic rivets instead of reusing the push fasteners and do require some drilling. I did have to buy a plastic rivet tool, got mine off of Amazon for $25. You can do it without, but I opted to do it with the correct tool.
The front set requires 1 new hole (1/4" drill) to be drilled. You remove the existing plastic rivets and one push in fastener. AS you can see, I have nerf bars and they DO NOT interfere. They are the Rough Country nerf bars (Identical to the N-Fab bars).
The rear set requires 3 new holes (1/4" drill) and re-uses 1 hole. The single push fastener is replaced with a plastic rivet. As you can see the profile of the fender liner is pretty "smooth" or flat. All other models of the JT have a "hump" for lack of a better term hat occurs about halfway in towards the wheel well. It creats about a 1" stand off from the fender liner. In the image below the you can imagine that stand off right where the innermost rivet is.
Take note, that if you are using a standard drill and /or a rivet tool you will need to remove the rear wheel to get enough room to drill the the inner hole and use the rivet tool.
I
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