Is anyone towing a travel trailer on 37¿

[Scratch]

What has been your experience?
I'm looking to pull my 4700 lbs travel trailer and I'm going to need tires before the snow gets here. I was going to go from 35s to 37s before I got the trailer. Now I'm not so sure.
Thanks
Scratch

Sponsored

 

[Shadowmaker]

It has 37s, 5.13s and tow from 2,500~7,000 feet. It is a workout over 65mph running a higher RPM. Camper weighs in around 4,000lbs at 19feet.

 

[Glad_he_ate]

I'd imagine a regear will be needed.

 

[Joey_espo]

37 with 4:10 no problem

 

[Scratch]

37 with 4:10 no problem

What size wheels are you running on that? Looks good!

 

[Scratch]

It has 37s, 5.13s and tow from 2,500~7,000 feet. It is a workout over 65mph running a higher RPM. Camper weighs in around 4,000lbs at 19feet.

What did you mean it's a workout over 65 running a higher RPM. Are you happy with the 5.13s or do you wish you went 4.88s

 

[Shadowmaker]

What did you mean it's a workout over 65 running a higher RPM. Are you happy with the 5.13s or do you wish you went 4.88s

Totally happy I went 5.13s when it comes to towing. The gears and the transmission make strong work of some of the passes out here. I was running a JKU with 5.13s with the same camper. I would have never been able to drive the JKU the way I drive the JT.

Open out west Interstates - It runs most efficiently at high RPMs which equals manual shifting and running in 4th or 5th. I get it up to 6th/7th when at lower elevations running on flat sections. I keep it around 65 for someone is going to run me down. Think of a screaming goat and this is what it is like for 6-8 hours. Up around 75 your hair starts getting wiry and standing up with your knuckles turning white.

Two Lanes - at sub 65 is darned manageable.

Again, this is at 2,000-7,000 feet. I would bet at lower levels and less windy areas, it would be just fine. The 3.6 needs some torque when towing.

Around town, I love it! I only tow about 6-12 times a year.

 

[DMNDBK RTLR]

Still on 4.10's, Firestone Destination MT2, 37_12.50_17. Will probably re-gear, but this works for now.

 

[MrZappo]

Mojave on 4/10's here ...

You will need helper springs or air bags ... And I'm on the stock 33's ...

And by "works" I think people mean that they arrived unscathed and the truck didn't explode into a pile of molten metal ...

These vehicles are not great tow vehicles ... Even on stock tires ... The suspension (on mojave at least) is mushy by design and will be very low in the back with minimal tongue weight .. ..

As far as 37's ? I Honestly I cant imagine it ... On 33's with 4.10 this thing is running mid RPM's for hours ... Doable yep ... And the truck handles it decently ... And I live in flatlands ...

I would be hard pressed to even try running this thing with a 4000 pound trailer up any serious hills ... Yes it will do it but it does not feel happy ...

37's ? well, sure people do it ... If high RPM's for hours in end is something that doesn't bother you, than go for it ... It bothers me ...

 

[DMNDBK RTLR]

A well-setup WDH helps with the mush the previous poster commented on. I am thinking about trying bags as well, not for squat, but for helping absorb some of the bounce over bumps while towing. Everybody has opinions about what "works" and what doesn't. Sometimes, people get very passionate about their opinions and feel that because that is "truth" to them, it must apply to everyone the same...

When changing axle ratio, there will be a slight improvement in available torque multiplication, though it is not a very discernible change at road speed. Ultimately, engine RPM at load will be based on a somewhat "peaky" torque curve from the Pstar V6. Changing axle ratio will allow you to ride in gear 7 instead of 5, but engine RPM will stay closely the same. Combined (transmission, axle, tire diameter) ratio is what determines engine RPM, for a given load, relative to vehicle speed. The real drawback when running larger tires is the added unsprung weight. This will add load to an engine that doesn't have a ton of surplus capacity to begin with.

My "truth" is that the engine isn't great for towing, suspension isn't amazing for pulling a moderate load, but the SAE certifications say it is safe, and I roll at my own pace based on comfort/experience/etc... Is it a compromise? Yes. Just as driving a JT is a compromise vs a JL 2-door for crawling, or even my RZR Turbo S...

Disclaimer: As this is a journey for most of us, all at different stages in the journey, I will likely grow into a bigger, dedicated tow rig as my family chooses a larger camper. However, what I have now works for me/mine, and we have a blast doing it together as a family. If your choice is to listen to someone who encourages you to live and learn, or listen to someone who infers that towing a 5k load on 37's is going to explode into a pile of molten metal, I'd recommend experimenting for yourself.. but ultimately don't live life based on fear.

No bags and my truck sits level with 5k lb load w/EQ4 WDH (driveway is a slight incline.)

 

[hjdca]

5:13s with 37's allows you to use more gears while accelerating which greatly improves performance - stoplight to stoplight - vs. 4:10 gears for example. It also allows you to use your high gears for hwy cruising. These lower gears give you great torque multiplication while accelerating. If you commit to getting a light set of 37's with light rims, you can minimize the weight penalty and get the appropriate set of towing gears for the win !

 

[Scratch]

Finally got to a point where I couldn't wait any longer for tires. Unfortunately I could not find any 37 available. My tire guy suggested we get what we can find! I ll drive with the 35s through the winter and maybe put these on the JL when I have more choices in 37 available.

 

[Coldtoes]

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I'd begin here and start a new thread if recommended.

While waiting on my JTR to ship I have been planning and would like your feedback. I intend to run 37" KM3s, and a Mopar lift. I will also be getting a travel trailer (~4,500lbs dry) to tow. My plan is to keep my stock tires/rims and put them on when towing (guessing 4-6 x a year) to reduce unsprung mass, for breaking/handling/safety and also reduce strain on the driveline components when towing.

Based off of reading the 22+ page thread on regearing, I would like to regear with 5.13s. However, when swapping to stock 33s (only for towing), will the 5.13s be too low? I am wondering if I should stick with 4.88s instead. Thoughts? Thanks!

Yes I know many drive on 37s with no regear, and some even tow with that. I am choosing not to.

 

[M3r1c4]

This is exactly what I need to do except for the mountains. I am not seeing much on here about using the Diesel. I know about the "normal" heat issues, but I would like to know regarding 37s and gears. Some say no gears needed with Diesel and .........But not many talk towing.

Sponsored