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Pat2Alaska

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Clarification - know that the back rail has to be removed.

Do the side ones need to go as well?
Here's a pix. Not sure if you remove the end cap if the rail could stay on or not. Have more detailed pix on my build page - Glad Grandpa...
railside.jpeg
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Br4hm4

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After shipping I am still at over $1k with the TAX15 code.... now I have to decide if I like it that much. lol. The flat rate shipping code would have saved me another $120.
 

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Clarification - know that the back rail has to be removed.

Do the side ones need to go as well?
I was able to do the install with only removing the front ones and then adapting it to the current side rail.
 

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Could the front trail rail be reinstalled using spacers to clear the hinges?
 

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The question would be why. What would you use it for?
To facilitate securing items to the back of the bed? I don't have a particular scenario in mind, but if I wanted to retain an existing trail rail system, is there a reason why it wouldn't work?

Also regarding the issues with the rivet nuts and tool breakage, would aluminum or stainless steel rivet nuts work and possibly stress the tool less due to the softer metal?
 

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Pat2Alaska

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To facilitate securing items to the back of the bed? I don't have a particular scenario in mind, but if I wanted to retain an existing trail rail system, is there a reason why it wouldn't work?

Also regarding the issues with the rivet nuts and tool breakage, would aluminum or stainless steel rivet nuts work and possibly stress the tool less due to the softer metal?
I’m thinking it would be very hard to get to the front rail with the Upper Decker on.
 

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To facilitate securing items to the back of the bed? I don't have a particular scenario in mind, but if I wanted to retain an existing trail rail system, is there a reason why it wouldn't work?

Also regarding the issues with the rivet nuts and tool breakage, would aluminum or stainless steel rivet nuts work and possibly stress the tool less due to the softer metal?
I think you should be fine with the rivet nut tool, just take your time and keep the insert as straight as possible. I busted my 4mm mandrel installing the nutsert for clips that hold the upper decker down when it is closed, on that side, one has been sufficient. On the other side, I decide to just use two self tapping screws which seem to be the better option anyway. Everywhere else, the nutserts went in easy with the tool.
 

Pat2Alaska

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thickliner1.jpeg
I think you should be fine with the rivet nut tool, just take your time and keep the insert as straight as possible. I busted my 4mm mandrel installing the nutsert for clips that hold the upper decker down when it is closed, on that side, one has been sufficient. On the other side, I decide to just use two self tapping screws which seem to be the better option anyway. Everywhere else, the nutserts went in easy with the tool.
Also make sure if you have the bedliner to clean some of it off if it is too thick......
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