Just put in beamtechs but one question

[93civej1]

Just put in a set of beamtechs. They are oriented up and down correctly, but i notice that when screwed into the light housing, they arent 100% straight up and down for the light body. They have little screw holes in the beamtech housing itself that you can take out and clock it to another hole, but if I did that, the bulb body would be even more crooked than how they are currently. Is it normal when putting them in for the LED body to be just a hair cocked on each one say 5 to 10 degrees from being 100% up and down. There is no in between for the adjustment holes on the body. Otherwise they look good and highs and lows act normal. Didnt know if that 5 or 10 degrees from straight vertical would make any difference on each light, or maybe they are made to be that way.

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[AndyDDDee369]

Just put in a set of beamtechs. They are oriented up and down correctly, but i notice that when screwed into the light housing, they arent 100% straight up and down for the light body. They have little screw holes in the beamtech housing itself that you can take out and clock it to another hole, but if I did that, the bulb body would be even more crooked than how they are currently. Is it normal when putting them in for the LED body to be just a hair cocked on each one say 5 to 10 degrees from being 100% up and down. There is no in between for the adjustment holes on the body. Otherwise they look good and highs and lows act normal. Didnt know if that 5 or 10 degrees from straight vertical would make any difference on each light, or maybe they are made to be that way.

I have different brand LED, this is how mine looks like

 

[93civej1]

I have different brand LED, this is how mine looks like

thanks. Yours look maybe they are tilted a little to the left as well??

 

[AndyDDDee369]

thanks. Yours look maybe they are tilted a little to the left as well??

mine is centered, if your beam pattern looks good, you should be fine

 

[93civej1]

I changed all front bulbs to LED. Turn. DRL. Headlight and fog. Do you all get a faint pulsating when the truck is running? Mine seem to but quits when off. Would changing settings on my jscan stop that? It’s not a flicker just a pulsating I can faintly see

 

[jjdustr340]

I changed all front bulbs to LED. Turn. DRL. Headlight and fog. Do you all get a faint pulsating when the truck is running? Mine seem to but quits when off. Would changing settings on my jscan stop that? It’s not a flicker just a pulsating I can faintly see

There is a setting in jscan to change the headlights to LED. Several have reported success with that. At least that was the case with the JL, I’m still learning about the JT, but I’d imagine it’s the same.

 

[93civej1]

There is a setting in jscan to change the headlights to LED. Several have reported success with that. At least that was the case with the JL, I’m still learning about the JT, but I’d imagine it’s the same.

thanks I’ll actually take it out for a spin in the next night or so and see how they do outside of my garage like 4 ft from the wall.
I may not even notice a single thing then. If I still do or it gets on my nerves, I will start playing with JScan settings.

 

[93civej1]

it was still bugging me this morning after sleeping on it, and decided to go see if revving up the RPM would cause it to stop. It did enough to cause the small pulsing to stop at idle.

I decided to just go ahead and change my JSCAN setting to LED to see what would happen. Changed the low beam first and then looked. Seems to have taken it away. These are on the beamtech 10000 bulbs. Interesting. I could still see my DRL barely doing it, but maybe not as noticeable now. (they are the canbus friendly ones everyone uses).

I went ahead and changed all my settings to LED. Low, High , DRL, Turn and Fog to the LED settings in JSCAN. Look again. Not noticing any more pulsating now.

When you do change to a LED setting in JScan, are they still performing or operating at their intended peak performance on the bulbs or does it take away some of the performance of the lights?

For now changing the settings to all LED seems to be good for me.

 

[jjdustr340]

I recall with my old JKU, there was a setting in jscan to change the voltage going to the lights. Idk for sure, but that may be what the LED setting does now in the app.
For comparison, my JT has the tow package which includes a 240 amp alternator, and that may be why I’ve never had any flicker with my Beamtechs.

Out of curiosity, when at normal idle,how many volts show on the dash?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For comparison, my JT has the tow package which includes a 240 amp alternator, and that may be why I’ve never had any flicker with my Beamtechs.

Out of curiosity, when at normal idle,how many volts show on the dash?

Shouldn't matter a lick - any alternator should be sitting at or slightly above 14 volts when running. That's been normal since day 1 in the early 60s. (although over the years it's varied from about 13.8 to 14.2 for various reasons)
So unless his alternator just can't keep up (which means it's defective) all will be running at the same regulated voltage.
Your 240 will run the same voltage as a 180 (or even the 120 amp on my 4.0, or the 55 amp on my 73) IF the regulator is working and the alternator is putting out.

LEDs should actually take less power than most others.

 

[93civej1]

I’ve got the max tow package so I thought it had a higher output alternator. Who knows. I just know that what little bit of wave of lights the front had seems to be gone by changing the settings to LED. Bulbs are the 10,000 Version of the beamtechs and the rest are the canbus friendly Alla lighting that everyone uses.

 

[LordEnzo]

Led should be a lesser draw as stated. Before switching settings, system is looking for 55W draw, or close to. How the system operates is what causes the pulsating, or hyperflash with blinkers, and eventually throwing a bulb out warning. Not all canbus bulbs are perfect either, but most are fine. After changing settings, system will see all is good and less likely chance of issues. But if u run bulbs that are at or near original wattage, u shouldn't need to change settings. Been playing with leds for a few yrs now and the tech seems to change bout once yr. Also, when referring to led bulb orientation, please reference diode placement at 3 and 9 o'clock for clarity. I was about to pitch a fit bout ur first post. Luckily I read everything completely. Finally, make sure ur beam is mostly flat, a little higher on rightside is ok, but make sure the cutoff is where ur halogens were so as not to blind traffic. Best of luck.

 

[93civej1]

I recall with my old JKU, there was a setting in jscan to change the voltage going to the lights. Idk for sure, but that may be what the LED setting does now in the app.
For comparison, my JT has the tow package which includes a 240 amp alternator, and that may be why I’ve never had any flicker with my Beamtechs.

Out of curiosity, when at normal idle,how many volts show on the dash?

how do you see volts on the dash? I scrolled through my screens earlier and did not see anything?

 

[jjdustr340]

In mine, it’s the second display (the one with tire pressure) then go right to the 7th section. At least I think it’s the seventh.

 

[93civej1]

In mine, it’s the second display (the one with tire pressure) then go right to the 7th section. At least I think it’s the seventh.

I was able to finally find it. I was having brain fart earlier. I didn’t check it before changing settings in JSCAN but I checked it at idle earlier and it stayed around 14.4

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