Locking Storage under the rear seats with base plastic divider. Less than $20

jonaandcaleb

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Last year when going topless and doorless, I was always puzzled that the [bottom] rear seats didn't lock down. I didn't keep anything in plain view and kept all 4 locking compartments locked (glovebox/dash/2 rear seat backs). It always worried that if someone would simply lift up the rear seats they would have access to all that air that I kept in there when topless/doorless. When topped and doored, I kept some towing accessories, straps, and some other things. I emptied it when doorless/topless but seems like I always needed something I left behind when it was emptied. I always thought there was a way to lock this and after combing through some pictures and forums I came up with an idea.

Here's what you need:
-2 Plunger locks. $11 & and keyed alike. These are what you see in wood/glass cases at stores. I bought them from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPPQ4XZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Metal strip around a foot long. I used a 3ft aluminum piece I bought from Lowes for $8
-bolts/washers/nuts (I some laying around but at Lowe's they are around $2 a bag)

Thanks to @dparker1901 for some pictures which helped me get to the seat bracket of the bottom of the backseats.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...t-bottom-or-locking-under-seat-storage.37234/

Some instructions:
1) Take the seat cover apart based on dparker1901's instructions.
2) Make some metal strips. I did mine at 5" long.
3) You will need to drill 2 holes into this strip and the seat bracket in the seat. These will need to be somewhat close together to get to the flat part of the seat bracket. I placed washers on the bolt, put the bolt through the bracket I just made, then 2-3 washers on the bolt, then placed it through the seat bracket with a final washer and nut on the end. The 2-3 washers was to fill the void between the raised part of the seat bracket. Make sure you tighten this down firmly.
4) Put seat cover back together making a hole for the bracket to come out.
5) Carefully lay the seat down. More than likely it will touch and you will have to bend it towards the center of the truck. This helps the angle of the storage tray below.
6) Put some tape down where the strap is going to lay on the tray. I put some outside of the tray, then back inside. and then going to the other side to check to make sure the tape was in alignment with the bracket. I did this by putting a light inside the storage tray and opening the other seat up and looking through. Kept adjusting this until I got it exactly the way I wanted it.
7) Drill the hole for the pin lock based on the centring it on tape you just placed. I drilled an 1/2" hole then sanded it out with a Dremel. I wanted it to be as tight as possible to help hold it, as I know the screws wouldn't be holding much. Put in the pin lock.
8) Now you need to drill the hole for the pin into the bracket. A little trick I did was put toothpaste on the pin, put the seat down, push the pin until it hit the bracket. Then when you lift up the seat a dab of toothpaste is left exactly where to drill the hole. I did drill mine a little bigger so it would slide easier and not bind.
9) Test it out to make sure it works. If it doesn't, you can again go to the otherside of the truck and look to see what's wrong. Most of the time you can just make the hole slightly bigger.

Pretty please with how it turned out. Pictures attached.

outside lock when locked.jpg


outside lock.jpg


lock in place.jpg


bracket in seat.jpg


Bracket.jpg
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A 2

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Last year when going topless and doorless, I was always puzzled that the [bottom] rear seats didn't lock down. I didn't keep anything in plain view and kept all 4 locking compartments locked (glovebox/dash/2 rear seat backs). It always worried that if someone would simply lift up the rear seats they would have access to all that air that I kept in there when topless/doorless. When topped and doored, I kept some towing accessories, straps, and some other things. I emptied it when doorless/topless but seems like I always needed something I left behind when it was emptied. I always thought there was a way to lock this and after combing through some pictures and forums I came up with an idea.

Here's what you need:
-2 Plunger locks. $11 & and keyed alike. These are what you see in wood/glass cases at stores. I bought them from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPPQ4XZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Metal strip around a foot long. I used a 3ft aluminum piece I bought from Lowes for $8
-bolts/washers/nuts (I some laying around but at Lowe's they are around $2 a bag)

Thanks to @dparker1901 for some pictures which helped me get to the seat bracket of the bottom of the backseats.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...t-bottom-or-locking-under-seat-storage.37234/

Some instructions:
1) Take the seat cover apart based on dparker1901's instructions.
2) Make some metal strips. I did mine at 5" long.
3) You will need to drill 2 holes into this strip and the seat bracket in the seat. These will need to be somewhat close together to get to the flat part of the seat bracket. I placed washers on the bolt, put the bolt through the bracket I just made, then 2-3 washers on the bolt, then placed it through the seat bracket with a final washer and nut on the end. The 2-3 washers was to fill the void between the raised part of the seat bracket. Make sure you tighten this down firmly.
4) Put seat cover back together making a hole for the bracket to come out.
5) Carefully lay the seat down. More than likely it will touch and you will have to bend it towards the center of the truck. This helps the angle of the storage tray below.
6) Put some tape down where the strap is going to lay on the tray. I put some outside of the tray, then back inside. and then going to the other side to check to make sure the tape was in alignment with the bracket. I did this by putting a light inside the storage tray and opening the other seat up and looking through. Kept adjusting this until I got it exactly the way I wanted it.
7) Drill the hole for the pin lock based on the centring it on tape you just placed. I drilled an 1/2" hole then sanded it out with a Dremel. I wanted it to be as tight as possible to help hold it, as I know the screws wouldn't be holding much. Put in the pin lock.
8) Now you need to drill the hole for the pin into the bracket. A little trick I did was put toothpaste on the pin, put the seat down, push the pin until it hit the bracket. Then when you lift up the seat a dab of toothpaste is left exactly where to drill the hole. I did drill mine a little bigger so it would slide easier and not bind.
9) Test it out to make sure it works. If it doesn't, you can again go to the otherside of the truck and look to see what's wrong. Most of the time you can just make the hole slightly bigger.

Pretty please with how it turned out. Pictures attached.

outside lock when locked.jpg


outside lock.jpg


lock in place.jpg


bracket in seat.jpg


Bracket.jpg
Nice work. I was trying to figure this out with a barrel lock. Great job!
 

Kevin_D

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A little trick I did was put toothpaste on the pin, put the seat down, push the pin until it hit the bracket. Then when you lift up the seat a dab of toothpaste is left exactly where to drill the hole.
Lipstick works very well for something like this, too.

I might just have to look into this.
Thanks!

Kevin
 
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jonaandcaleb

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Lipstick works very well for something like this, too.

I might just have to look into this.
Thanks!

Kevin
Cool-never thought about lipstick. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

Trippin01

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Completely awesome!
 
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jonaandcaleb

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@jonaandcaleb

Such a great idea I had to steal it.

20210406_190513.jpg
Cool! It looks great! Is it stealing if you admit to it? :)

It's so simple and it works. I want to put something on the metal bars that are coming from the seats. Right now they don't feel great when you hit your head on them or scratch your arm on them. Thinking PlastiDip.
 

gerky18

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Cool! It looks great! Is it stealing if you admit to it? :)

It's so simple and it works. I want to put something on the metal bars that are coming from the seats. Right now they don't feel great when you hit your head on them or scratch your arm on them. Thinking PlastiDip.
I had the same concern but of course, it was right after I drilled all the holes and past the point of no return. I tried to round off the corners as much as possible but still thinking of ways to soften the blow when I ultimately hit it as well.
 

Pescatoral Pursuit

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gerky18

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This is a great solution!

Could this be done at the front of the seat instead of the side so that the latch is inboard and not the first thing you come in contact with reaching in?

Or if one were to use the hinge in this hack and bend it to the inside instead, it would alleviate the rigid tab:

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...t-bottom-or-locking-under-seat-storage.37234/

The only issue with doing it in the front of the seat would be an attachment point on the bottom of the seat. On the side, it is the seat frame that lines up reasonably well with the edge of the plastic surround.

I was trying to think of another way to keep the large-ish piece of metal out of the way, but as I use it more I have gotten used to it.
 
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jonaandcaleb

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Basically what @gerky18 said, not really a good place to anchor to the seat frame. I have also got use to mine as well. After some time with it I have gotten use to it and I really loved it throughout the summer/top off season. It was super sturdy and no one bothered it. So far so good!
 

fst96se

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Absolutely fantastic idea! Great execution. Now I need to work up my courage to try this out myself. :)
 

Simple Man

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Just a thought and I haven't even looked at the rear (skeleton) part of the seat

you mention that someone could brake the plastic with a lot of force, but I wonder if .. within the skeleton part of the seat you could bolt or weld a permeant piece of steel to accept the plunge lock?

then maybe weld a piece of steel from the floor just inside the plastic and once the plung lock is in place it binds the two together.


I love fabricating and might look into this
 
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