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Loctite vs never seize

Beemer533

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Weird question I guess, but as I was putting in my new sliders today I had to pull the body mount bolts out and obviously they have a decent amount of loctite on them..

This question is really only applicable to those of us that have to deal with salt and rust, but I tend to put never seize on everything I take apart.

With things like the body mount bolts that I may need to remove in a few years which makes sense?

Probably my best bet is to just get a winter rat and avoid the issue all together lol, but I love driving the truck in the snow....
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bleda2002

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I went anti-seize instead of loctite after I disassembled mine. Sure it's possible they come loose, but given how much those threads stick and groan, I didn't want to chance breaking the nut inside again.

Also, from the factory the front pair is red loctite, the middle and rear pair are blue, or at least that's what mine were (and most people's experience).
 
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Beemer533

Beemer533

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The rear bolts for me were the hardest to get off, I had to use a breaker bar. Those appear to have blue loctite.

The front two on both sides spun right off with my impact (same impact wouldn't touch the rear).

I'm leaning towards just sticking with the never seize. I'll just check the bolts every so often I guess.
 

jerjon

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What the frush is never seize?
anti-seize?
 

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Beemer533

Beemer533

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Beemer533

Beemer533

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John in the Woods

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I did mine and used anti-seize on the bolts. Partly to fight rust. Partly to avoid the same battle someday if I want to pull them again.

Just remember to adjust your torque when adding anti-seize. The folks at @Northridge4x4 have a video on body bolts and ARB sliders, and they mention it there.
 

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Maybe you could add a lock washer to the bolts in place of the loctite.
Lock washers are pretty much useless. There's studies that have been done on lock washers, believe it or not, they suck. This was particularly hard for me to grasp as I grew up putting lock washers on everything. Now the only time I use one is if I disassemble something and if it had a lock washer I replace it, same same. Do a lock washer search for a technical analysis, there's a bunch out there, aerospace companies, fastener manufacturing, I think NASA even did a test. It's one of those things that I did because that's how it always has been done, and, I know better now. I'm just a blow hard on the internet so do your own due diligence.
 

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Tech Tim

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My understanding is that loctite does seal the threads against corrosion. A removable (blue) loctite makes sense. Was the original blue or red?
Loctite does help seal the bolt from corrosion.

My take on it is lube it or lock it...Period. Everything gets coated with either thread locker or anti-seize and if you use a proper torquing sequence you should be fine with either. Though I tend to use thread locking compound on thing that have a lot of vibration stress like suspension, just to keep things locked tight.
 

whiteglad

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After the stress put on the bolts to remove them, I changed to new grade 12.9 allen bolts and installed with high pressure chassis lube.
 
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Beemer533

Beemer533

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After the stress put on the bolts to remove them, I changed to new grade 12.9 allen bolts and installed with high pressure chassis lube.
You're talking about the body mount bolts I assume?

I was thinking about doing that. My sliders came with grade 8.8 bolts, but I couldn't get them to thread in for some reason so just put the factory bolts back in.

I may swap them out, especially since they are a bit shorter than the ones that came with the sliders due to the 3/8" brackets.
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