KurtP

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took me forever to get around to getting this installed. schedule at work for my buddy and I was crazy with lots of travel. I finally gave up and dropped the truck at Bull Run to have installed there while i was traveling. im not on the forums much these days…the ROI on my time is just not there. I try to be responsive to questions via DM, so thats generally a better way to get something answered.

bluf- would i do this again: yes. Its great to have TQ, and it drives like a big V8.

combined with @DAVECS1 tuning, it feels very Rand Rover-esque in terms of drivability. There is no feeling of build up or rush of boost. It just hits and goes. It appears I am not hitting full boost targets, and I didnt expect to on my initial file on account of the exhaust. Im sending Dave an exhaust so he can tweak the files. For there to be no drivability issues on a first cut of a tune file is amazing. So, again, hats off to Dave and his expertise.

why i chose magnuson:

there are 3 primary types of blowers used today: whipple/twinscrew, tvs, and centrifugal. of these, centrifual is the least thermally efficient and whipple the most efficient. Assuming all else is equal and appropriately sized, you get 12°IAT increase per psi with a whipple, 13° on a TVS, and 13.5-14° on a centrifugal. Centrifugals also are generally limited to air to air IC’s vs A2W. Pd blowers will make more tq, and assuming the centri isnt over sized (and many are) the peak hp is the same.

the other big advantage of the TVS over the Centri (and to a lesser extent even over the whipple) is the bottom end tq hit. Put simply- what i want out of these blowers is area under the curve and a deep well of tq, and nothing beats a TVS for that.

the other issues i have with centris is the packaging. I think hamburgers has a sealed airbox now, but i dont want to have to drop the alternator down in the engine bay of an off road vehicle.

the side car set up of the Magnuson maximizes the space available for larger blower and substantially larger intercooler brick than other designs would, so thats a plus. combine that with Sealed airbox, deep well of TQ, and stock alternator location; and its the best packaging/application for a truck imo.

next steps for me are maximizing efficiency further. AWE has built me a secondary coolant reservoir for more HX coolant, i have a high GPM pump to keep IC brick temps lower, heat wrap for the cold side lines, and a FI systems interchiller to run HX coolant through a box cooled by the AC. l

overall happy with the set up combined with Dave’s excellent tuning. I think it’s the best combination available on the market.
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Chance575

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Ditch that black belt and get a gates green belt. Less slippage, I’m surprised the kit didn’t come with it. I’d also look at some meth injection just to keep IAT down. it would be easy to keep a tank in the bed.


link to gates belt, just figure the ribs and length.

https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-t...otive-micro-v-belts.p.8555-000000-000000.html



dug put a old pic of my magnumson Jeep. Probably one of the first ones ever. First to install one on a srt8 at home

F1FF4179-9078-418D-A968-88E020F935E1.png
 
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Chance575

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I ran a small shot of meth for years with no issues on no tune. I didn’t want a issue with running out of meth and adding additional timing for it. run 51% meth water blend, no fire hazards temps stay down and pistons/ spark plugs will get cleaner.
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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cool. I understand how it works, i just have no desire to spray meth on a daily driven camping truck. I dont want afr’s affected at elevation, i dont want to deal with a fluid tank.
 
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Gladiator847

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How much was the install labor?
 
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KurtP

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Green belts are good stuff, but man I would ve hard pressed to see how this would slip at 13 psi with the pulley wrap they have designed in. That setup qould be good for way more on way faster engines. You can only hit so hard with this trans in stock form.
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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Green belts are good stuff, but man I would ve hard pressed to see how this would slip at 13 psi with the pulley wrap they have designed in. That setup qould be good for way more on way faster engines. You can only hit so hard with this trans in stock form.
yeah thats my take too. I know green belts are better on high tq, especially if you’re really trying to spin it to the limit, but i cant see it being needed here.
 

itsdapk

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took me forever to get around to getting this installed. schedule at work for my buddy and I was crazy with lots of travel. I finally gave up and dropped the truck at Bull Run to have installed there while i was traveling. im not on the forums much these days…the ROI on my time is just not there. I try to be responsive to questions via DM, so thats generally a better way to get something answered.

bluf- would i do this again: yes. Its great to have TQ, and it drives like a big V8.

combined with @DAVECS1 tuning, it feels very Rand Rover-esque in terms of drivability. There is no feeling of build up or rush of boost. It just hits and goes. It appears I am not hitting full boost targets, and I didnt expect to on my initial file on account of the exhaust. Im sending Dave an exhaust so he can tweak the files. For there to be no drivability issues on a first cut of a tune file is amazing. So, again, hats off to Dave and his expertise.

why i chose magnuson:

there are 3 primary types of blowers used today: whipple/twinscrew, tvs, and centrifugal. of these, centrifual is the least thermally efficient and whipple the most efficient. Assuming all else is equal and appropriately sized, you get 12°IAT increase per psi with a whipple, 13° on a TVS, and 13.5-14° on a centrifugal. Centrifugals also are generally limited to air to air IC’s vs A2W. Pd blowers will make more tq, and assuming the centri isnt over sized (and many are) the peak hp is the same.

the other big advantage of the TVS over the Centri (and to a lesser extent even over the whipple) is the bottom end tq hit. Put simply- what i want out of these blowers is area under the curve and a deep well of tq, and nothing beats a TVS for that.

the other issues i have with centris is the packaging. I think hamburgers has a sealed airbox now, but i dont want to have to drop the alternator down in the engine bay of an off road vehicle.

the side car set up of the Magnuson maximizes the space available for larger blower and substantially larger intercooler brick than other designs would, so thats a plus. combine that with Sealed airbox, deep well of TQ, and stock alternator location; and its the best packaging/application for a truck imo.

next steps for me are maximizing efficiency further. AWE has built me a secondary coolant reservoir for more HX coolant, i have a high GPM pump to keep IC brick temps lower, heat wrap for the cold side lines, and a FI systems interchiller to run HX coolant through a box cooled by the AC. l

overall happy with the set up combined with Dave’s excellent tuning. I think it’s the best combination available on the market.
Why it's better is in your opinion. I have several people that removed the same charger and replaced with ours. I'm sorry but heatsoak will always kill power with a roots style when compared to a centrifugal. I visit several hundred shops a year and all state the Hamburger's Supercharger is the best driving kit out there.
Exodus 4x4 tried our kit out even though they mostly do hemi swaps. Check out their review.
 

DAVECS1

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The centrifugal kit will drive better out of the box because there is a basic lack of understanding on how to properly calibrate the 2018-21 3.6L in the jeep products. So adding boost after power enrichment comes on, makes things much more simple and failsafe. You will make power when you really ask for power and you will have slightly elevated cruise which is not bad.

Positive displacement will give you the ability to bring in elevated power levels off idle. The big snag is thereis no template for how to modify the programming for a 40% increase in airflow off idle. In short it messes with A BUNCH of cht.

Now if you are able to harness this airflow and utilize it. It now gives you the ability to pull higher gears in cruise and eliminate backshifting at part throttle. Smoother ride, and a true alternative to gearing down.

With that said I do not believe there is a PD out of the box with that capability right now do to the calibration limitations.

I do offer a calibration for the 18-20 auto machines that will allow you to take advantage of all the things stated above.
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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Why it's better is in your opinion. I have several people that removed the same charger and replaced with ours. I'm sorry but heatsoak will always kill power with a roots style when compared to a centrifugal. I visit several hundred shops a year and all state the Hamburger's Supercharger is the best driving kit out there.
Exodus 4x4 tried our kit out even though they mostly do hemi swaps. Check out their review.
Sure. We can say my opinion on drivability, but that being true, how many shops you visit is an irrelevant statistic also. What consideration did you give exodus for the kit? Did they pay anything for it at all? 🤷🏼‍♂️

-the tvs makes more tq where most of us want it. You cannot argue that a centri kit matches the tq output

-“heat soak” Let’s talk data. Post the data from your thermal management testing showing pre and post IC temps and at what boost level; and what data you have for the same off the magnuson.

the opinion of what people like better is subjective; the facts arent. a centri blower is less efficient than a TVS. You may have windows in the RPM range where your absolute IAT’s are lower, but thats because you arent making any boost that has to be cooled in the first place.
 

itsdapk

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Sure. We can say my opinion on drivability, but that being true, how many shops you visit is an irrelevant statistic also. What consideration did you give exodus for the kit? Did they pay anything for it at all? 🤷🏼‍♂️

-the tvs makes more tq where most of us want it. You cannot argue that a centri kit matches the tq output

-“heat soak” Let’s talk data. Post the data from your thermal management testing showing pre and post IC temps and at what boost level.
Exodus paid full price because that's how they do unbiased opinions.
Again most people are basing information on only their own vehicles which they have driven.
I wish we could show more data but unfortunately we are fairly small division of a larger company that builds 200 (Camaros, Syclones, Silverado 800-1050hp) vehicles a year all with powertrain warranties mind you.
I also recently visited one of the top Maggie shops on the east coast and they stated that our kits were the best driving kits out there. ;)

Did you end up doing forged pistons after your mishap with your kit?
 

itsdapk

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The centrifugal kit will drive better out of the box because there is a basic lack of understanding on how to properly calibrate the 2018-21 3.6L in the jeep products. So adding boost after power enrichment comes on, makes things much more simple and failsafe. You will make power when you really ask for power and you will have slightly elevated cruise which is not bad.

Positive displacement will give you the ability to bring in elevated power levels off idle. The big snag is thereis no template for how to modify the programming for a 40% increase in airflow off idle. In short it messes with A BUNCH of cht.

Now if you are able to harness this airflow and utilize it. It now gives you the ability to pull higher gears in cruise and eliminate backshifting at part throttle. Smoother ride, and a true alternative to gearing down.

With that said I do not believe there is a PD out of the box with that capability right now do to the calibration limitations.

I do offer a calibration for the 18-20 auto machines that will allow you to take advantage of all the things stated above.
Not everyone has access to a good tuner like you out there. ;)
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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Exodus paid full price because that's how they do unbiased opinions.
Again most people are basing information on only their own vehicles which they have driven.
I wish we could show more data but unfortunately we are fairly small division of a larger company that builds 200 (Camaros, Syclones, Silverado 800-1050hp) vehicles a year all with powertrain warranties mind you.
I also recently visited one of the top Maggie shops on the east coast and they stated that our kits were the best driving kits out there. ;)

Did you end up doing forged pistons after your mishap with your kit?
cmon man. stop talking shit. Seriously. I havent had a “mishap” with my kit. Magnuson has issues burning out cats from their early factory tunes. Ive never used anything other than Dave’s.

you’re making a lot of claims, so you either need to post the data or say you dont have it. It’s as simple as that.

lab testing has shown that centri’s heat up the air more per psi than a TVS assuming appropriate sizing for the application. Theres no data that shows the cooling system of the Magnuson or Edebrock TVS kits cannot adequately compensate for IAT, in fact the opposite shows true.

a/w intercoolers pull out more heat than a/a units do, and it means we can plumb to the AC unit if we want to.

so again, post your thermal management data for pre and post IC IATs, and at what boost, or whatever back to back pulls you have. If you dont have the data, you shouldn't be making the claims. Dave has shared Magnuson thermal info before and Edelbrock shared their data. Heat management isnt an issue in either application.

so to recap:
-Dave’s file gives me excellent drivability
-heat isnt an issue
-it makes more tq
-it doesnt relocate my alternator down lower in the engine bay…

why would i want your kit? If people like it, and it seems many do, then great. Im glad theyre happy. But theres no empirical reason for for it.
 
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