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HTXGladiator

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Dealer/sales manager called. FCA is aware of the issue with D to C status change, But the supply chain manager is on vacation this week, so they won't have any response until Monday at the earliest. I work for a 15-20 million dollar a year company, when someone is on vacation, we don't make customers wait. We cover for them and provide answers. Apparently FCA is not capable of this. Fingers crossed I can provide an update on this come Monday.
yeah....1 man, a supply chain team, does not make. Odd excuse
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LongTimeListener

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Dealer/sales manager called. FCA is aware of the issue with D to C status change, But the supply chain manager is on vacation this week, so they won't have any response until Monday at the earliest. I work for a 15-20 million dollar a year company, when someone is on vacation, we don't make customers wait. We cover for them and provide answers. Apparently FCA is not capable of this. Fingers crossed I can provide an update on this come Monday.
I see this isn't your first Jeep, so why are you surprised by this? :LOL:
 

Thorn-Engineering

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yeah....1 man, a supply chain team, does not make. Odd excuse
I have been finding myself wondering if this whole process would have gone any differently if I would have never posted on here or reached out to FCA chat..... If I find out my order was canceled by the plant and I'm starting over, maybe I'll have to test that route. Then again, it's more than likely just a coincidence and I'm not being punished for my involvement. I just have the gift/ability to put together a combination of options that's virtually impossible to build :)
 

HTXGladiator

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I have been finding myself wondering if this whole process would have gone any differently if I would have never posted on here or reached out to FCA chat..... If I find out my order was canceled by the plant and I'm starting over, maybe I'll have to test that route. Then again, it's more than likely just a coincidence and I'm not being punished for my involvement. I just have the gift/ability to put together a combination of options that's virtually impossible to build :)
Sting Gray, saddle brown leather int., Manual Tranny, 8.4" uconnect/stereo package, tow package, aux switch package, tonnau cover, black hard top Rubicon. Pretty standard (literally) if you ask me. I don't get it. No steel bumpers, no painted tops or flares, no LEDs, no safety group no trail rail, no bed liner.
 

Thorn-Engineering

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Sting Gray, saddle brown leather int., Manual Tranny, 8.4" uconnect/stereo package, tow package, aux switch package, tonnau cover, black hard top Rubicon. Pretty standard (literally) if you ask me. I don't get it. No steel bumpers, no painted tops or flares, no LEDs, no safety group no trail rail, no bed liner.
Jason, please don't steal my thunder and having the super power/ability :)
 

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HTXGladiator

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Jason, please don't steal my thunder and having the super power/ability :)
haha....I just saw your signature with the build features. Our trucks are almost opposites in every way (same transmission, radio and switches). seems like 1 of us would be moving quicker.
 

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I'm a average size American so 5'-10", 200 lbs, and a size 10 shoe. I actually like the pedal spacing and I haven't found myself needing a dead pedal. The longest drive to date has only been 90 miles and most of my driving is short highway, country roads and the occasional 50 mile round trip to town.
Good to hear, we are roughly the same dimensionally. I had other issues with the MT JT but that's largely due to the fact that I'm used to the VW GTI MT which is a whole different animal. I'll have to go test drive it again before I order.

I would be willing to bet the size of the brake pedal is the same between automatic and manual versions of a vehicle on most high production vehicles. I'd also bet that some safety or government group has determined the size of the brake pedal needs to be at least a certain size.

I own 30+, 10+ and a 4 year old manual transmission vehicles. The only one with a smaller brake pedal was built in 1983. I've gotten used to driving all three at 6'2" and a size 9 shoe.
It makes sense that they would use the same size brake pedal for economy of scale reasons. I guess I may have never even seen, much less driven, both an automatic and manual version of the same car/truck/van/etc. All of my brake pedals to date (1982-2017 model years) have always been the smaller square brake pedals that are roughly the same size as the clutch pedal. I guess with the limited space down there it just seemed like the jeep would benefit from the smaller pedal.
 

MonkeySkunks

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One more question. Never done any off-roading or rock crawling but started doing some reading up on it given that I've become infatuated with a jeep.

My understanding is with an MT sometimes you start the truck in gear without the clutch to slowly crawl over stuff utilizing the starter. Sounds like BS to me but I've seen it in plenty places so I assume it's true. How does that work with push button start where you need to depress the clutch to start the vehicle?
 

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One more question. Never done any off-roading or rock crawling but started doing some reading up on it given that I've become infatuated with a jeep.

My understanding is with an MT sometimes you start the truck in gear without the clutch to slowly crawl over stuff utilizing the starter. Sounds like BS to me but I've seen it in plenty places so I assume it's true. How does that work with push button start where you need to depress the clutch to start the vehicle?
In 4-lo, you don’t need the clutch to start the Jeep. Aside from that, I’m not sure the starter is utilized to roll forward, it’s simply the engine torque benefitting from the low gears. I could be entirely wrong on that last part ‍♂
 

MonkeySkunks

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In 4-lo, you don’t need the clutch to start the Jeep. Aside from that, I’m not sure the starter is utilized to roll forward, it’s simply the engine torque benefitting from the low gears. I could be entirely wrong on that last part ‍♂
No clutch need in 4-lo makes sense.

I'll take your word for how it actually works. I was under the impression without the clutch engaged that the engine wouldn't actually turn over and you'd just be using the starter to turn the engine. Sounded like the exact opposite of push starting it. Seems like it would make a hell of a racket and burn your starter up which is why it sounded like BS to me. Sometimes you just need to try something rather than think about it for it to make sense.
 

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Thorn-Engineering

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No clutch need in 4-lo makes sense.

I'll take your word for how it actually works. I was under the impression without the clutch engaged that the engine wouldn't actually turn over and you'd just be using the starter to turn the engine. Sounded like the exact opposite of push starting it. Seems like it would make a hell of a racket and burn your starter up which is why it sounded like BS to me. Sometimes you just need to try something rather than think about it for it to make sense.
It takes practice and skill off road with a M/T. Personally I prefer a manual in ALL driving conditions (even traffic). But it will take some getting used to. Ultimately you will be a better driver and much more connected to the ground. Driving and automatic is like rock climbing with welding gloves on in my opinion.
 

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One more question. Never done any off-roading or rock crawling but started doing some reading up on it given that I've become infatuated with a jeep.

My understanding is with an MT sometimes you start the truck in gear without the clutch to slowly crawl over stuff utilizing the starter. Sounds like BS to me but I've seen it in plenty places so I assume it's true. How does that work with push button start where you need to depress the clutch to start the vehicle?
My 02 Tacoma had a factory clutch override switch designed for that purpose. I used it once in 4 low on a rock face start and it made some fucked up noises and barley scooted forwards. From then on I just started it normally and slipped the clutch a little if it was tough to get going again. Factory low should idle along decent with taps of the gas when it bogs down.

I eventually added a inchworm doubler 6-1 to my Tacoma and never stalled again. The rubicon shouldn’t have any low range issues as it already has a very low range Tcase 4-1. Or an aftermarket transfer case could be added to a sport.


I don’t know how Jeep works as I haven’t received mine yet. I would guess you would need a Tazer computer to disable the clutch sensor. Or permanently disable the sensor on the pedal end.
 

Thorn-Engineering

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Good to hear, we are roughly the same dimensionally. I had other issues with the MT JT but that's largely due to the fact that I'm used to the VW GTI MT which is a whole different animal. I'll have to go test drive it again before I order.


It makes sense that they would use the same size brake pedal for economy of scale reasons. I guess I may have never even seen, much less driven, both an automatic and manual version of the same car/truck/van/etc. All of my brake pedals to date (1982-2017 model years) have always been the smaller square brake pedals that are roughly the same size as the clutch pedal. I guess with the limited space down there it just seemed like the jeep would benefit from the smaller pedal.
My JKUR has a smaller brake pedal. Just goes to show I don't really pay attention and just drive it.
MVIMG_20190822_154549.jpg


There is a pic of the pedals on a Gladiator way back in this thread. Apparently it's a different setup then the JKUR?!
 

Hootbro

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Dealer/sales manager called. FCA is aware of the issue with D to C status change, But the supply chain manager is on vacation this week, so they won't have any response until Monday at the earliest. I work for a 15-20 million dollar a year company, when someone is on vacation, we don't make customers wait. We cover for them and provide answers. Apparently FCA is not capable of this. Fingers crossed I can provide an update on this come Monday.
I would not count on FCA getting back to you next week on their own and your dealer will have to follow up again.
 

MonkeySkunks

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Interesting that you post that photo. The sole on my boots sticks out the side a similar amount to yours. I found the edges of my boots rubbing/catching on the brake pedal and had to actually think about my feet. Granted I only drove it around the block so I assume muscle memory would adjust fairly easily but it felt very awkward for the test drive. Almost like my feet were four sizes bigger than when I got to the dealership.

Swapping out the rubber on the pedal should be pretty easy assuming it doesn't have a full length metal backing.
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