ShadowsPapa

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Not a happy camper. I totally wasted a lot of money.

It's not at all ready for prime time.

First - do NOT even think of touching that button with no trailer and the engine running.

That's right - no diode, it will light your cluster like the 4th of July or Christmas - and it disabled 4 functions on my jeep until I shut down and restarted.

The instructions are wrong in two places - they show it with wires facing you as you install it but it comes reversed - which is correct? The arrow points to removing a wire strap on the lower hole, it's actually the upper hole.

VERY hard to plug it in installed as it's shown, but much easier if it's reversed from the directions (installed as it comes)

Comparing this to Redarc -
Redarc single mode controller - about 136
Mopar single mode controller - over 250
Redarc dual mode controller with bezel and Ram harness with diode - under 250

So for less money you can get a dual purpose controller that has a diode in the line and won't light up your dash if you press that button without a trailer connected. Not a biggy - but if you are like me and may bump that button shifting the t-case or reaching for a window switch or whatever, it will be a problem.

What does the Mopar controller do that Recarc does not?
Nothing.

It doesn't light with headlights on, it only lights with a trailer. Which is fine because you don't need it without a trailer, right?

It doesn't integrate into the electronics in any way - it won't show on your dash or screen. It's a dumb controller just like Curt, Redarc, etc. But for about twice the money.

Obviously this was a hurry-up thing. They never tested it.

So why do we all want it? Because the control knob matches the dash! That's it.

I find zero advantage and several disadvantages.

Frankly, I'm concerned about how cheap and light the control dial is - it's a fraction of the weight and thickness of the smaller Redarc knob. I have a feeling it's not going to hold up well.

I'm still debating, especially after finding it will light up your dash and crap out if you hit the button by accident, I may still rip it out and trash it.

I'll see how I feel after a couple of days - but one more time of that fXXX thing lighting up my dash and it's out of there.

I can't believe Mopar released this overpriced cheaply made thing that doesn't even have any protection from error (like a diode)

What gives, Jeep? What a joke.

Show me an advantage this has over the Redarc controller - other than LOOKS. Seriously.

I expected something WELL MADE, with a solid control knob, not some cheap thin plastic.

And like I say - it doesn't even light with no trailer.

Where's the advantage and why did we all - including stupid ME - rush to get this thing?

Instructions are a mess -
There is no ADH code for Gladiator, that's a Wranger, etc. code. So anyone with a Gladiator is going to be confused by that including DEALERS!

The instructions show in at least SIX (6) places where the controller itself should be mounted with connectors facing you - pointing back. It comes the other way.

The instructions point to a lower hole and show removing a wire harness clip - the clip is actually in the UPPER hole and mine was a bitch to get out!
I could go on - but you see the deal - it was rushed out and the instructions were never checked, tested, etc.



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Alans17

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I’ve really been looking forward to this. Maybe I’ll wait until they work out the kinks.
 
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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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I’ve really been looking forward to this. Maybe I’ll wait until they work out the kinks.
FRankly, unless you MUST have Mopar brand, I'd go Redarc.
This is really cheaply made at the knob/control end, cheap, thin, fragile plastic.
It's got zero advantages over other controllers, none at all.
 

Mr._Bill

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I held off for a long time to see what the Mopar brake controller would be like. I feel a lot better now for giving up and buying a Curt Spectrum controller from Amazon for $135 last May. It's too bad the factory controller is such a letdown.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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I held off for a long time to see what the Mopar brake controller would be like. I feel a lot better now for giving up and buying a Curt Spectrum controller from Amazon for $135 last May. It's too bad the factory controller is such a letdown.
Big letdown.
It doesn't have the diode in the brake light wire - indicating it was never tested on a real JT with options. There is no way any test engineer, even a beta tester ever used this. I'd bet it was designed, made, and shipped - not tested.
It's mounted backwards from the instructions. No one caught that in beta testing?
The instructions are also not precise in a couple of ways (you can't insert the wires first and then mount it - at least I could not after an hour (no kidding) of trying)
It adds no features at all over the Curt or Redarc controllers.
It costs twice as much as either one of those.
The control knob itself is really fragile, IMO. Be VERY careful installing it, don't force anything and absolutely don't drop the part with the plastic light guide! It would easily snap off as it's smaller than a typical tooth pick.
For almost 300 bucks I'd expect some neat features and integration.
The Redarc does exactly anything this one does - and more if you get the dual mode version for much less.
For the price, it should integrate, the knob and plastic bits should be built at least as well as the Redarc or Curt units.
If I hadn't spent so much time trying to get it installed and make it work - I'd have ripped it out by now and tossed it in among my other stuff I can't figure out why I keep.

IMO, if you have ACC, an optioned JT - it's not usable.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Here are other downsides to the Mopar controller - aside from it never having been tested, the lack of a diode in the harness, the really cheap made knob setup, etc. -

You can't easily install this in other locations like you can Curt or Redarc as the cable is made into the control knob and is limited length. And this takes a big hole, unlike the Curt or Redarc control knob.
With Redarc, ANY Cat5 network cable will do to connect their small knob assembly to the box. You could mount the knob 20 feet from the box if you wanted.
Further, the Redarc controller can be mounted in a small hole you drill elsewhere, this can't - you are stuck putting it in the 12v outlet spot or making a big hole somewhere.
Some members have put the Redarc knob in holes they drilled themselves - 1/3 the size that this Mopar control knob requires. You have almost no choice with the mopar controller - you MUST mount it where the 12v outlet is. Redarc or Curt - YOU choose where to mount their control knobs.
I get why Mopar did that - it was always shown, advertised and marketed as going in that spot, but people who want to keep that 12 volt outlet should avoid this Mopar unit and go Curt or Redarc.

I am screwed now. I spent over 250 expecting a nicely engineered and TESTED brake controller that offered advantages over others. I ordered it from a discount seller and installed it myself.
This all means I have NO warranty. It won't work for me as it is but I have no recourse. I can't go to a dealer, I can't take it back to the parts counter showing them it's defective. I'm screwed, out over 250 and if I want to try to make it work, I have to either hack the harness myself and put in a diode or wait for Mopar to finally test the stupid thing, figure out they screwed up and come out with a new harness and then spend another 50 bucks for the harness.
In the end, 300 bucks or more and a day's work for a controller that is half the unit the Redarc controller is.
Cheaply made, piss-poor instructions, defective harness (don't push that button! - you can't manually apply trailer brakes to stop sway or whatever or it will light up your dash)
 

MarkN

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ShadowsPapa, sorry for your loss ($). Thank you for the write up! I was about to order one today until I read your post. That is disappointing. No other truck manufacturers have a problem with brake controllers. You would think after all these years that Jeep has spent developing a truck with 7k tow rating that they could figure out a brake controller. For the most part I love my JT but the brake controller issue pisses me off. I guess I ll get a Curt or Redarc. Thanks again!

Mark
 

Mkcagle

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Shadow papa, just found this thread. Thank you for the in depth review. Very eye opening. I think you have convinced me to pass on this control for now. Guess I will stay with my Prodigy RF for the time being.
 
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I'd frankly wait. Not saying they can't make this work - fix the harness, fix instructions, UNCONFUSE the dealers who are looking for a code that does not even exist for the Gladiator, and decide once and for all - which way does it face - better yet, put it in a place that at least makes sense and is accessible.
Maybe my truck is a weird exception - but I'd bet others would be frustrated trying to work around the wire bundles in my truck and mount and then plug that thing in.
If I had thought ahead, I'd have made MY OWN BRACKET and put is anyplace else than where they put it.
That still won't fix the wiring harness issue, though.
They must deal with that post-haste, stat, asap, whatever.
A controller where you can't use the manual button without shutting down the safety options and generating errors -that's bad.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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I just installed mine and everything seems to be working fine. Only thing wrong was the controller was the wrong way on the mount but it was only 2 screws to fix.
Did you start the truck and push the brake button?
If it didn't screw up the display - do you have ACC or other safety options?

I could not install mine when I switched it around on the bracket to match the instructions.

IF you have adaptive cruise and/or collision avoidance, etc. - start it and press that button and see what happens.
My guess is you don't have any safety options if you say it works fine.
 

Pitch

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I have adaptive cruise control and it worked fine. No christmas tree on the dash when I push the manual button. Started it and pressed the button and had no problems. No lights on the controller unless I'm hooked to my trailer. Green light when I do not have brakes applied, red light when I apply brake with the pedal or the manual button. I'm still waiting on hitch parts so I won't be able to take it for a drive until next week.
 
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I have adaptive cruise control and it worked fine. No christmas tree on the dash when I push the manual button. Started it and pressed the button and had no problems. No lights on the controller unless I'm hooked to my trailer. Green light when I do not have brakes applied, red light when I apply brake with the pedal or the manual button. I'm still waiting on hitch parts so I won't be able to take it for a drive until next week.
That's weird because at least two of us have problems.
I wonder if they shipped the WRONG harness with some of these?
I don't suppose you noticed if there was a diode in the wiring harness supplied?

It's normal to have no light on the controller with no trailer connected.
But it's not normal to push the button and have dash/cluster errors and features of the truck disabled.
At least 2 of us have seen this problem and we aren't first time controller installers.
These simply plug in so it's not like you can wire it incorrectly in any way.
 

Stevevdbh

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Not a happy camper. I totally wasted a lot of money.

It's not at all ready for prime time.

First - do NOT even think of touching that button with no trailer and the engine running.

That's right - no diode, it will light your cluster like the 4th of July or Christmas - and it disabled 4 functions on my jeep until I shut down and restarted.

The instructions are wrong in two places - they show it with wires facing you as you install it but it comes reversed - which is correct? The arrow points to removing a wire strap on the lower hole, it's actually the upper hole.

VERY hard to plug it in installed as it's shown, but much easier if it's reversed from the directions (installed as it comes)

Comparing this to Redarc -
Redarc single mode controller - about 136
Mopar single mode controller - over 250
Redarc dual mode controller with bezel and Ram harness with diode - under 250

So for less money you can get a dual purpose controller that has a diode in the line and won't light up your dash if you press that button without a trailer connected. Not a biggy - but if you are like me and may bump that button shifting the t-case or reaching for a window switch or whatever, it will be a problem.

What does the Mopar controller do that Recarc does not?
Nothing.

It doesn't light with headlights on, it only lights with a trailer. Which is fine because you don't need it without a trailer, right?

It doesn't integrate into the electronics in any way - it won't show on your dash or screen. It's a dumb controller just like Curt, Redarc, etc. But for about twice the money.

Obviously this was a hurry-up thing. They never tested it.

So why do we all want it? Because the control knob matches the dash! That's it.

I find zero advantage and several disadvantages.

Frankly, I'm concerned about how cheap and light the control dial is - it's a fraction of the weight and thickness of the smaller Redarc knob. I have a feeling it's not going to hold up well.

I'm still debating, especially after finding it will light up your dash and crap out if you hit the button by accident, I may still rip it out and trash it.

I'll see how I feel after a couple of days - but one more time of that fXXX thing lighting up my dash and it's out of there.

I can't believe Mopar released this overpriced cheaply made thing that doesn't even have any protection from error (like a diode)

What gives, Jeep? What a joke.

Show me an advantage this has over the Redarc controller - other than LOOKS. Seriously.

I expected something WELL MADE, with a solid control knob, not some cheap thin plastic.

And like I say - it doesn't even light with no trailer.

Where's the advantage and why did we all - including stupid ME - rush to get this thing?

Instructions are a mess -
There is no ADH code for Gladiator, that's a Wranger, etc. code. So anyone with a Gladiator is going to be confused by that including DEALERS!

The instructions show in at least SIX (6) places where the controller itself should be mounted with connectors facing you - pointing back. It comes the other way.

The instructions point to a lower hole and show removing a wire harness clip - the clip is actually in the UPPER hole and mine was a bitch to get out!
I could go on - but you see the deal - it was rushed out and the instructions were never checked, tested, etc.
Thanks for the write up.
 

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