Mopar Lift Kit Question

LoJac963

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Hoping someone can help me as I'm in the middle of this install.

You can see on the instructions, step 22 shows N being Right or Passenger and M being Left or Driver side. Each of those parts even have L and R molded into them.

However, moving to step 23, it shows N going on the driver side and M going on the passenger side which is opposite of step 22. Am I crazy or do those directly contradict each other?

I have the parts installed currently as step 22 says since it specifically says right and left and I matched up part numbers from the inventory sheet to double check everything. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

instructions.jpg



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dcjeep

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Hoping someone can help me as I'm in the middle of this install.

You can see on the instructions, step 22 shows N being Right or Passenger and M being Left or Driver side. Each of those parts even have L and R molded into them.

However, moving to step 23, it shows N going on the driver side and M going on the passenger side which is opposite of step 22. Am I crazy or do those directly contradict each other?

I have the parts installed currently as step 22 says since it specifically says right and left and I matched up part numbers from the inventory sheet to double check everything. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

instructions.jpg
I took it as if I'm in the driver's seat left is driver side and right is passenger side. I believe with the shape of the mold it can only go one way. If done correctly each spring should slightly bow towards the wheel. So left spring would bow towards the left and right to the right respectively. How'd you like installing the bump stop extension by the way?
 

Under-Pressure

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Your not going crazy. I did a triple verify also & you have it correct.
 
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LoJac963

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I took it as if I'm in the driver's seat left is driver side and right is passenger side. I believe with the shape of the mold it can only go one way. If done correctly each spring should slightly bow towards the wheel. So left spring would bow towards the left and right to the right respectively. How'd you like installing the bump stop extension by the way?
That's how I did it, right to passenger, left to driver as step 22 said. The driver side spring definitely bowed out but the passenger not so much. I spent over an hour checking EVERYTHING and could not find anything wrong so I moved on. Bump stops were annoying but I actually had a large strap wrench I used to really get them cranked down. Definitely added time to the install, I only got the front done yesterday. On to the rear today which I'm assuming will be much easier. Torquing the LCAs was ridiculous though.....

Your not going crazy. I did a triple verify also & you have it correct.
Thanks for your confirmation!
 
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LoJac963

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Forgot to add, did you guys loosen the UCA bolts? I did not and am glad I didn't after struggling to torque the LCAs. Did that change anything NOT loosening the bolts. I feel like the passenger lower shock mount I had to force to the side into the bracket along with the passenger swar bar end link.
 

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Forgot to add, did you guys loosen the UCA bolts? I did not and am glad I didn't after struggling to torque the LCAs. Did that change anything NOT loosening the bolts. I feel like the passenger lower shock mount I had to force to the side into the bracket along with the passenger swar bar end link.
I loosened mine. Helps make sure there is no binding of any kind since everything moves a little with the new geometry.

When I torqued the LCA’s I used a floor jack to move the wrench. Makes it a ton easier.
 
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LoJac963

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I loosened mine. Helps make sure there is no binding of any kind since everything moves a little with the new geometry.

When I torqued the LCA’s I used a floor jack to move the wrench. Makes it a ton easier.
I had thought about using the jack, maybe I'll give the fronts a little extra. I just started the rear and will loosen the UCAs as well. I did not do that on the front, do you think that will cause any issues? Oddly enough the wheels do not seem shifted, I wonder if not loosening the UCAs kept them aligned?
 
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LoJac963

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Also, the control arms have to be torqued with the wheels on the ground correct? That prevents binding of the bushings is what I've read?
 

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Also, the control arms have to be torqued with the wheels on the ground correct? That prevents binding of the bushings is what I've read?
That is the going theory. I followed the directions and torqued them in the air. My alignment is all out of whack. I'll be loosening and retorqueing all of the control arms today in effort to correct the problem.
 

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Also, the control arms have to be torqued with the wheels on the ground correct? That prevents binding of the bushings is what I've read?
You can also do what I did which is put jack stands under the axle tubes. This way you have easier access to everything with the wheels still off. The point is that you have the weight of the vehicle on the suspension. That goes for track bars also.
 

dcjeep

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You can also do what I did which is put jack stands under the axle tubes. This way you have easier access to everything with the wheels still off. The point is that you have the weight of the vehicle on the suspension. That goes for track bars also.
I had everything together, put the stock wheels back on and drove it about 20 feet straight forward and back. This helps with tracking and "driveway" alignment. Once that was done I put the front on jack stands to load to suspension and torqued all the bolts to spec. Like wise for the rear. Drove it for a couple days with the steering wheel pointing to 11 o clock. Took it to an alignment shop with the alignment specs provided by Mopar.
 

kelkolb

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I had everything together, put the stock wheels back on and drove it about 20 feet straight forward and back. This helps with tracking and "driveway" alignment. Once that was done I put the front on jack stands to load to suspension and torqued all the bolts to spec. Like wise for the rear. Drove it for a couple days with the steering wheel pointing to 11 o clock. Took it to an alignment shop with the alignment specs provided by Mopar.
I did the same thing. Toe is all they can adjust but they got it right on. I had to fix my own wheel though.
 
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LoJac963

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damn, lots of great pointers, thanks everyone! This is my first jeep and first solid axle in front and rear vehicle. I am used to IFS and torsion bar systems. So the rear it looks like will be good since I loosened everything. I will I guess loosen everything on the front and retorque which I dread. The point of putting the axle on jack stands makes complete sense!
 
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