cb4017
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Cliff
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2021
- Threads
- 30
- Messages
- 365
- Reaction score
- 506
- Location
- Northern Nevada
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Gladiator Sport Max Tow
- Occupation
- Retired USN and retired LEO
- Thread starter
- #1
Since getting my Sport a couple of months ago I've been agonizing on what to do with it. I do explore the NV desert so better tires and a mild lift were a requirement. I bought the max tow because of the wide HD axles with 4.10 gears, not because I needed the 7,650 tow rating. The most this will ever tow is a small travel trailer under 3,000 pounds.
I bought a Rubicon take off suspension then sold it. Bought Teraflex spacers but one was broken on arrival so I returned them. At that point I said heck with it and got the Mopar kit from Amazon for $1,250 with free shipping.
Next I debated doing it myself. Been wrenching my whole life on everything from bicycles to aircraft. I have the knowledge, space and tools to do the job but at near 70 My body often tells me to slow the heck down and/or that's not a good idea champ. So I did it myself anyway. This is not a how-to. There are plenty of those out there. This is what I did a little different and what worked for me.
I read and saw the issues folks had getting LCAs lined up so I did that first, on the ground. I chocked the wheels, loosened all the LCA bolts then changed them one at a time. Since the axle was held in place the new LCAs bolt hole alignment was very close. Not much persuasion was needed to line them up and install the bolts. Everything else on the front went pretty much as expected. The most fidgety, PITA was trying to get the bump stops tightened. I put a small screwdriver in a slot near the top of the bump stop to hold it while turning the wrench.
The rear was easier. I quickly discovered trying to hold the rubber isolator to the frame while installing the new spring was not going to work. I had a can of spray adhesive to I glued them in place. Much easier.
A few more thoughts.
I discovered that trying to get 185 to 200 pounds of torque on a control arm bolt while laying on the ground was almost impossible for me. So one end at a time I put the truck on ramps. It gave me plenty of room to get the torque I needed while keeping the weight of the truck on the suspension.
It took about a 1/2 turn on the drag link to center the steering wheel.
A good impact wrench is essential. Made life much easier loosening those control arm bolts.
The instruction torque values sheet shows 80 ft lb of torque on the bump stop bolts. No way for an M8 bolt. Not getting a torque wrench on those bolts anyway.
Lift results at the fenders were 3 1/4" lift in front and just over 2 1/2" in the rear. I'm certain that will settle a little as the springs break in.
Looks good with 33" take-off tires.
The job took me two days. I have an excuse, LOL. OK, I'm sore and wore out. Time for Motrin and a beer.
Almost forgot to mention. Front axle shift is almost un-noticeable but I'll probably get an adjustable track bar eventually. I'll let things settle first.
I bought a Rubicon take off suspension then sold it. Bought Teraflex spacers but one was broken on arrival so I returned them. At that point I said heck with it and got the Mopar kit from Amazon for $1,250 with free shipping.
Next I debated doing it myself. Been wrenching my whole life on everything from bicycles to aircraft. I have the knowledge, space and tools to do the job but at near 70 My body often tells me to slow the heck down and/or that's not a good idea champ. So I did it myself anyway. This is not a how-to. There are plenty of those out there. This is what I did a little different and what worked for me.
I read and saw the issues folks had getting LCAs lined up so I did that first, on the ground. I chocked the wheels, loosened all the LCA bolts then changed them one at a time. Since the axle was held in place the new LCAs bolt hole alignment was very close. Not much persuasion was needed to line them up and install the bolts. Everything else on the front went pretty much as expected. The most fidgety, PITA was trying to get the bump stops tightened. I put a small screwdriver in a slot near the top of the bump stop to hold it while turning the wrench.
The rear was easier. I quickly discovered trying to hold the rubber isolator to the frame while installing the new spring was not going to work. I had a can of spray adhesive to I glued them in place. Much easier.
A few more thoughts.
I discovered that trying to get 185 to 200 pounds of torque on a control arm bolt while laying on the ground was almost impossible for me. So one end at a time I put the truck on ramps. It gave me plenty of room to get the torque I needed while keeping the weight of the truck on the suspension.
It took about a 1/2 turn on the drag link to center the steering wheel.
A good impact wrench is essential. Made life much easier loosening those control arm bolts.
The instruction torque values sheet shows 80 ft lb of torque on the bump stop bolts. No way for an M8 bolt. Not getting a torque wrench on those bolts anyway.
Lift results at the fenders were 3 1/4" lift in front and just over 2 1/2" in the rear. I'm certain that will settle a little as the springs break in.
Looks good with 33" take-off tires.
The job took me two days. I have an excuse, LOL. OK, I'm sore and wore out. Time for Motrin and a beer.
Almost forgot to mention. Front axle shift is almost un-noticeable but I'll probably get an adjustable track bar eventually. I'll let things settle first.
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