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Need Some Advice on Rust Protection

Hawkeyes3312

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Has anyone heard of or used the following product (Final Coat):

https://www.finalcoat.com/module/

I want to protect the JT against the weather of the Midwest (winter, specifically) and I want the best available protection.

Any help is appreciated.
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Delhux

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Has anyone heard of or used the following product (Final Coat):

https://www.finalcoat.com/module/

I want to protect the JT against the weather of the Midwest (winter, specifically) and I want the best available protection.

Any help is appreciated.
I can’t speak to that product, but I ended up going with Fluid Film after researching a bit—I liked this guy’s video:

 
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Hawkeyes3312

Hawkeyes3312

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I can’t speak to that product, but I ended up going with Fluid Film after researching a bit—I liked this guy’s video:

Thanks; I've watched that video before myself. I really want to know more about this product. Apparently it's been around for many years and the warranty is good.
 

Klutch

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You don't need to add any rust-proofing to a Gladiator. These days, vehicles are completely immersed in anti-corrosion treatments. Not that this makes them impervious to rust, but I don't think anything you add will make it any more rust-resistant. That's why dealer rustproofing is a completely worthless option.
 
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Hawkeyes3312

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You don't need to add any rust-proofing to a Gladiator. These days, vehicles are completely immersed in anti-corrosion treatments. Not that this makes them impervious to rust, but I don't think anything you add will make it any more rust-resistant. That's why dealer rustproofing is a completely worthless option.
Guess that's why 'these days', I don't see plenty of new(er) vehicles with rust on them?!?!? That's a completely uninformed statement. The treatments you're referring to are not for the lifetime of the vehicle otherwise they'd be covered under a warranty.

Now that we've got the asinine response out of the way, back to receiving sound advice.
 

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Klutch

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Guess that's why 'these days', I don't see plenty of new(er) vehicles with rust on them?!?!? That's a completely uninformed statement. The treatments you're referring to are not for the lifetime of the vehicle otherwise they'd be covered under a warranty.

Now that we've got the asinine response out of the way, back to receiving sound advice.
Oh, sure. My response is accurate, but you don't it like so it's "asinine". This isn't just my opinion. Do some research. Anyone not actually selling rustproofing will tell you it's a waste of money. But go ahead. If you really want to flush your wallet for no reason, that is your right.
 

MrZappo

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Oh, sure. My response is accurate, but you don't like so it's "asinine". This isn't just my opinion. Do some research. Anyone not actually selling rustproofing will tell you it's a waste of money. But go ahead. If you really want to flush your wallet for no reason, that is your right.
This has some truth to it ... Body panels are totally zinc coated among other things ... Full rust holes are not common any more ... When I was young it was common to see a vehicle with holes all over it ... That is not common any more ...

So, its not an uninformed statement by any means ... Now, the technology in this post has been used on ocean going vessels for decades and it does definitely work ...

So as I see it, vehicles are less prone to rusting these days ... Rust "proofing" is likely not needed in all but the harshest of environments ... And it may help then ... etc etc etc ..

And above all else maybe be a bit more civil ... There is some "sound" advice ...
 

Klutch

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Extra, Extra... Read all about it...

https://www.autotrader.ca/newsfeatures/20160524/goof-of-the-month-rust-protection-isnt-magic/

I'm not saying newer vehicles will not rust. I'm saying the rustproofing they already have is better than anything you can add. So, any rustproofing you add will make no difference. If you want to keep your Gladiator from rusting, keep the underside clean as best you can. After driving in snow or ice, try to power wash it whenever possible.
 

Klutch

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This has some truth to it ... Body panels are totally zinc coated among other things ... Full rust holes are not common any more ... When I was young it was common to see a vehicle with holes all over it ... That is not common any more ...

So, its not an uninformed statement by any means ... Now, the technology in this post has been used on ocean going vessels for decades and it does definitely work ...

So as I see it, vehicles are less prone to rusting these days ... Rust "proofing" is likely not needed in all but the harshest of environments ... And it may help then ... etc etc etc ..

And above all else maybe be a bit more civil ... There is some "sound" advice ...
My initial post was quite civil. I just didn't like the OP saying it was asinine. I'm perfectly fine with someone disagreeing or asking for more information. Sorry, I obviously didn't like that response. My objective is help people. I've been a car guy since the 1970s. I restore classic cars. I'm not just pulling this stuff out of some random orifice.

The technology works on ocean-going vessels for reasons that don't apply to street vehicles.
 

MrZappo

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My initial post was quite civil. I just didn't like the OP saying it was asinine. I'm perfectly fine with someone disagreeing or asking for more information. Sorry, I obviously didn't like that response. My objective is help people. I've been a car guy since the 1970s. I restore classic cars. I'm not just pulling this stuff out of some random orifice.

The technology works on ocean-going vessels for reasons that don't apply to street vehicles.
Actually I thought you were quite civil ... I was referring to the party before you who was not ...
 

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Klutch

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Actually I thought you were quite civil ... I was referring to the party before you who was not ...
Oh, OK. Thanks.

The bottom line is Cathodic electronic modules work on boats and bridges which are constantly submerged. Since street vehicles are not constantly submerged, electronic modules don't do anything to prevent rust. And, obviously, I'm skeptical of any coatings to prevent rust as well.
 

MrFahrenheit

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Not sure why everyone gets so combative on internet forums.....

Jeep does have anti-corrosion warranties on their vehicles. It's 3 years for 'All Panels' and 5 years for 'Outer Panels'. Both are unlimited mileage:

https://msmownerassets.z13.web.core...Gladiator/P115758_20_J_G_GW_EN_US_Digital.pdf

Generally, those warranties require the rust to be a hole and will not cover surface rust. I'm unsure if that covers anything on the chassis however.

That video was quite interesting but it's comparing bare metal, which our vehicles are not. our vehicles rust from paint chipping/scraping off and getting exposed to the elements. Anything that can take the paint off the surface would likely take the undercoating off as well.

Is undercoating all that much different than getting under your vehicle with a rattle can and some sand paper and cleaning up those spots? I figure i'd be more concerned with places that you can't reach like inside the frame?

I live in Minnesota and I haven't don't any undercoating, not that this means it has no merit or that one shouldn't, but I wash my vehicles regularly and haven't had any major rust issues on late model vehicles. My personal opinion is that many late model vehicles that have rust issues are not properly maintained. I've seen vehicles that are only a couple years old have rust while 10+ year old vehicles still look new.

I would certainly be interested in first hand experience people have had.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Guess that's why 'these days', I don't see plenty of new(er) vehicles with rust on them?!?!? That's a completely uninformed statement. The treatments you're referring to are not for the lifetime of the vehicle otherwise they'd be covered under a warranty.

Now that we've got the asinine response out of the way, back to receiving sound advice.
I've done both ways - and I can tell you that without, I've had frame rust, body rust and other fun stuff. But with - never a problem.
Look at the frames - these have had people complaining of rust for months.
The treatment I buy is covered for something like 7 years.
I restore and refurbish vehicles.

There's almost nothing they can "dip" in that will prevent rust. Phosphate treatments, yeah, VW did that for a few years, maybe they still do, and AMC went through that zinc thing in the 80s - and guess what I have next to my shop with totally gone frame rails and holes in the floors. 2 of them. OK, so the fenders are good.

I've had mine protected and will continue to do so if I plan on keeping them long at all.

These youtube people, bloggers, vloggers (is that a virtual lumberjack?) and so on don't have the decades of hands-on I do. I have to laugh at some of what I see, seriously - who are these kids making money on the web?
Put it this way - when I treat them, I have NO rust issues, when I don't, I have rust issues.
I have the ability to put almost any sort of treatment there is on bare steel as far as a dip or spray like the factory may use - none of those are long-term solutions.

The problem with after-market stuff is that once that truck has set around, gotten wet, dusty or dirty in and on things, you can never get protection perfect. Right off the truck - you have a great chance at long-term protection.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Oh, OK. Thanks.

The bottom line is Cathodic electronic modules work on boats and bridges which are constantly submerged. Since street vehicles are not constantly submerged, electronic modules don't do anything to prevent rust.
CORRECT! These outfits that sell the electronic rust prevention - it's like the MPG increasers of the past. (although water injection DOES work on older engines!)

No electronics, no fancy "charging the frame", no cathodes, none of that can work on a truck.
 

HuskyTaylor

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Try to find a Ziebart Rustproofing shop. It’s the best rustproofing you can get done to a vehicle. If done correctly it will not rust from the inside out and the complete bottom is coated inside and out. The downside is that you will hate working on the bottom after you have it done.
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