steffen707
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2018
- Threads
- 204
- Messages
- 8,621
- Reaction score
- 8,918
- Location
- Middle Wisconsin
- Vehicle(s)
- 2001 Jetta TDI RIP, 89' Civic SI, 2019 Pacifica Hybrid, 2020 GLADIATOR SPORT S "GLADYS"
- Thread starter
- #1
I’m posting this as much for me to collect my thoughts as I am to help other people out. Hopefully kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Back Story:
I've never owned a Jeep. I'm an Eagle Scout and use to love camping pre family. Now that I have a family I think we might enjoy overlanding/long road trips with camping. I want my boys to learn some stuff about camping/wilderness survival/outdoors fun.
For the beginning, nothing super-duper off-road, example: climbing over boulders to get the most pristine campsite. I’m not really concerned with weight. We’re not overlanding every month and the fuel sacrifice for wind drag/fuel use isn’t a big concern.
Also this will be my daily driver and it needs to look nice on a normal daily basis as I'm a Financial Consultant by day. Its possible that my plywood creation with camo/staining paint job could be presentable enough, but I’m guessing probably not. So if its ugly it’ll need to come off after each trip.
I'm going to lease a white JT Sport S, so anything I do I would like to be movable to a future Rubicon JT maybe in 3 years, and hopefully in Gator.
Must haves when overlanding:
1. Accessible fridge/freezer in bed of truck. Sadly this kicks the diamondback out. I was excited to get one, but I don’t think I can buy one as it will only allow like 17" of space under it and I want a bigger fridge.
Above bed even with a fridge "slide and drop" is cutting it close (at stock height). They only drop the fridge 11”. Add bigger tires or a lift and no way I can see into the fridge without a step (I’m 5’7”)
2. Waterproof above bed storage (got a wife, 2 small boys, a dog in about a month, lots of cargo I anticipate bringing, I know familys of 5 do it in a JL, but I highly doubt that’ll be us)
3. RTT or cargo rack capability above cargo top/canopy/rack.
Must haves for daily use:
1. Waterproof bed storage that looks normal/professional
2. Ability to get 2 garbage cans in there for getting rid of grass clippings/yard waste without using my trailer, (#1 most often use of my 5x8 trailer)
3. Pretty easily movable to the new Rubicon
Want list when overlanding:
1. convenience of cargo
2. segregated storage areas above bed rail and below
3. Reasonable Cost (define reasonable…..i dunno)
4. ability to easily store top/canopy/cap when not overlanding (some type of hoistable design into my garage ceiling)
Want list for daily use:
1. N/A
Options I've considered (basic analysis):
1. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side and back access doors with a base for above bed and below bed storage for overlanding and then some type of removable tonneau cover below
a. Cost: Tonneau + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, extra work for tonneau install/uninstall
c. Meets Must haves: Yes, can put tonneau back on.
2. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side and back access doors with some type of retractable hard tonneau cover.
a. Cost: Tonneau + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, but don’t have to re-install tonneau after each use
c. Meets Must haves: Yes, can move tonneau out of the way.
3. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side and back access doors with diamondback topper.
a. Cost: Tonneau + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, but don’t have to re-install tonneau after each use
c. Meets Must haves: NO, can’t get fridge under tonneau.
4. An aftermarket topper with custom plywood shelf at bed height
a. Cost: Topper + $100 in Wood
b. Work: Not much
c. Meets Must haves: Could leave topper on if it looks good, then yes.
5. An aftermarket canopy
a. Cost; ??? – Lots
b. Work: ???
c. Meets must haves: Probably a pain to put on, take off and swap to new rubicon, plus super expensive.
6. An overlanding trailer
a. Cost: $3,000 to ???
b. Work: If I build it, could be a lot, if not, would be expensive
c. Meets must haves: Yes
7. A rack with plywood trapezoid skin, plus a retractable tonneau
a. Cost: Rack + Tonneau + wood
b. Work: almost as much if not more than all wood topper
c. Meets must haves: Yes
8. A rack plus a soft tonneau with some kind of plywood shelf at bed height.
a. Cost: Rack + Tonneau + $100 Wood
b. Work: almost as much if not more than all wood topper, plus install/uninstall topper each time
c. Meets must haves: yes
The plywood trapezoidal topper can have wood or metal frame (possibly 8020) underneath. I’m not concerned about water destroying the topper and proper construction “SHOULD” keep water out. I’ve had a plywood floor and sided 5x8 trailer for 10 years and that is only treated, not even marine grade. Its held up well and that sits out in the rain and snow 24/7, hauling mulch, dirt, gravel, refigerators, ect. This topper isn’t going to be in the rain or be beaten on all that much. Also possible to skin the plywood in Aluminum for a better look, or possibly aluminum access doors with a plywood top. (I'm planning to make these access doors pretty much the entire side and rear)
I really didn’t have a budget set for this before, but we’ve had some unexpected expenses the last 3 months (broken leg, ER peanut allergy visit, my son is fine now) that is now going to force me be more reasonable with this build.
For that reason, I think 1, 2, 4, 7, 8 could work.
3 doesn’t meet the must haves
5,6 are probably too expensive for now, maybe re-visit in a future build.
1 and 8 require putting tonneau back on and off each time, so they’re out. Also for roughly $1000 more I could get a retractable tonneau which is super cool and is useful to "pinch" cargo against the tailgate to keep it secure. The Retrax allows you to do this on their manual ones, but they're not making one for the JT.
So I’m down to 2,4,7,
Only rack that is 22” tall worth plywood skinning (Leitner is cool, but attaching plywood skin to it wouldn’t be easy, also rear diagonal cross supports limit plywood hauling in the bed), is the max modular one. Max Modular isn’t custom made for the gladiator, so its slant is probably not close to that of the gladiator’s boxier look. It should be lighter than my wooden/8020 frame, but it will cost much more. For that 7 is out.
In case anybody was interested, this is how Ben Franklin made decisions, https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/how-to-make-a-decision-like-ben-franklin/ Basically comparing the pros vs. cons on a T-Chart. I find that while simple, this is very helpful in making decisions. You need to write/type them out though, or you’ll forget.
Now I’m down to 2 or 4.
2. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side (possibly back access) doors with some type of retractable hard tonneau cover.
a. Cost: Tonneau (roll-n-lock or pace Edwards) + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, but don’t have to re-install tonneau after each use
c. Meets Must haves: Yes, can move tonneau back.
d. Pros:
i. Cheaper than 4
ii. Satisfaction of creating something unique
iii. Custom paint job for cheap (do it myself)
iv. BECAUSE PLYWOOD
v. Totally customized to my liking/needs
vi. Ability when daily driven to get taller items moved without taking a topper off
vii. Possibility of not needing a plywood shelf at bed rail height, can use retractable tonneau for that “maybe”
viii. If it doesn’t work out, plywood can be recycled to other projects and I’m out several hundred dollars, but still have a sweet retractable topper.
e. Cons:
i. Could be ugly
ii. Might need to remove for daily use
iii. Heavy (need to calculate, marine ply is lighter than treated, also its aluminum friendly unlike copper based treated)
iv. Durability is unknown, Static load is no problem, dynamic load????? No idea.
v. No rear visibility unless I do some kind of lexan window
vi. Might need to redo paint job for JT2, not end of the world, but will take some work.
4. An aftermarket topper with custom plywood shelf at bed height, need to see more options, fiberglass might be cheaper
a. Cost: Topper + $100 in Wood
b. Work: Not much
c. Meets Must haves: Could leave topper on if it looks good, then yes.
d. Pros:
i. No need to Remove for daily use
ii. Custom painted to color match
iii. Professional look
iv. 600lb dynamic load rated
v. Stainless steel
vi. Waterproof
vii. Ability to see through back with window option
viii. Since no shelves will be customized by me to meet my needs
e. Cons:
i. Expensive
1. https://www.rlddesignusa.com/p/jeep/2020-jeep-gladiator-truck-cap-canopy/ This is about $3,500 shipped without any options
ii. Doesn’t include any kind of shelves, cubbies, so still need to either buy, or create these, just like option 2, but with $3,500 up front cost.
iii. Can’t get tall items under the topper
iv. Color matched paint will either work for JT 1, or JT2. So I might have to repaint it if JT2 happens and could be expensive to do right.
How much do fiberglass toppers weight? Any with doors like that RLD design stainless one?
What kind of dynamic loads can fiberglass toppers handle, what about RTT or cargo racks above them? This is still a POSSIBILITY, but I doubt many will be available anytime soon.
Since I’m getting the JT HOPEFULLY by mid July, right @spenchey ?, I want to use it for several camping trips, a 3 day music festival camping thing, and the Great Lakes Rally yet this year.
The timeline might not allow for option 4, but option 2 I’ve already got the gears grinding on how to execute. This coupled with the large expense differential, I think I’m leaning towards 2. I probably wasted hours and hours when we all know PLYWOOD is the answer.
If anybody read this whole post, you get a thumbs up
, I hope some of you find this helpful and can use this info for your own build, or at least use my Ben Franklin T-Chart for your next project/mod/life choice.
I'll still post things I find about toppers and the like on the @Bobs85Reny Tops thread, but once I start tackling my topper/tonneau decisions, i'll post that build here.
Until next time........
Back Story:
I've never owned a Jeep. I'm an Eagle Scout and use to love camping pre family. Now that I have a family I think we might enjoy overlanding/long road trips with camping. I want my boys to learn some stuff about camping/wilderness survival/outdoors fun.
For the beginning, nothing super-duper off-road, example: climbing over boulders to get the most pristine campsite. I’m not really concerned with weight. We’re not overlanding every month and the fuel sacrifice for wind drag/fuel use isn’t a big concern.
Also this will be my daily driver and it needs to look nice on a normal daily basis as I'm a Financial Consultant by day. Its possible that my plywood creation with camo/staining paint job could be presentable enough, but I’m guessing probably not. So if its ugly it’ll need to come off after each trip.
I'm going to lease a white JT Sport S, so anything I do I would like to be movable to a future Rubicon JT maybe in 3 years, and hopefully in Gator.
Must haves when overlanding:
1. Accessible fridge/freezer in bed of truck. Sadly this kicks the diamondback out. I was excited to get one, but I don’t think I can buy one as it will only allow like 17" of space under it and I want a bigger fridge.
Above bed even with a fridge "slide and drop" is cutting it close (at stock height). They only drop the fridge 11”. Add bigger tires or a lift and no way I can see into the fridge without a step (I’m 5’7”)
2. Waterproof above bed storage (got a wife, 2 small boys, a dog in about a month, lots of cargo I anticipate bringing, I know familys of 5 do it in a JL, but I highly doubt that’ll be us)
3. RTT or cargo rack capability above cargo top/canopy/rack.
Must haves for daily use:
1. Waterproof bed storage that looks normal/professional
2. Ability to get 2 garbage cans in there for getting rid of grass clippings/yard waste without using my trailer, (#1 most often use of my 5x8 trailer)
3. Pretty easily movable to the new Rubicon
Want list when overlanding:
1. convenience of cargo
2. segregated storage areas above bed rail and below
3. Reasonable Cost (define reasonable…..i dunno)
4. ability to easily store top/canopy/cap when not overlanding (some type of hoistable design into my garage ceiling)
Want list for daily use:
1. N/A
Options I've considered (basic analysis):
1. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side and back access doors with a base for above bed and below bed storage for overlanding and then some type of removable tonneau cover below
a. Cost: Tonneau + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, extra work for tonneau install/uninstall
c. Meets Must haves: Yes, can put tonneau back on.
2. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side and back access doors with some type of retractable hard tonneau cover.
a. Cost: Tonneau + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, but don’t have to re-install tonneau after each use
c. Meets Must haves: Yes, can move tonneau out of the way.
3. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side and back access doors with diamondback topper.
a. Cost: Tonneau + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, but don’t have to re-install tonneau after each use
c. Meets Must haves: NO, can’t get fridge under tonneau.
4. An aftermarket topper with custom plywood shelf at bed height
a. Cost: Topper + $100 in Wood
b. Work: Not much
c. Meets Must haves: Could leave topper on if it looks good, then yes.
5. An aftermarket canopy
a. Cost; ??? – Lots
b. Work: ???
c. Meets must haves: Probably a pain to put on, take off and swap to new rubicon, plus super expensive.
6. An overlanding trailer
a. Cost: $3,000 to ???
b. Work: If I build it, could be a lot, if not, would be expensive
c. Meets must haves: Yes
7. A rack with plywood trapezoid skin, plus a retractable tonneau
a. Cost: Rack + Tonneau + wood
b. Work: almost as much if not more than all wood topper
c. Meets must haves: Yes
8. A rack plus a soft tonneau with some kind of plywood shelf at bed height.
a. Cost: Rack + Tonneau + $100 Wood
b. Work: almost as much if not more than all wood topper, plus install/uninstall topper each time
c. Meets must haves: yes
The plywood trapezoidal topper can have wood or metal frame (possibly 8020) underneath. I’m not concerned about water destroying the topper and proper construction “SHOULD” keep water out. I’ve had a plywood floor and sided 5x8 trailer for 10 years and that is only treated, not even marine grade. Its held up well and that sits out in the rain and snow 24/7, hauling mulch, dirt, gravel, refigerators, ect. This topper isn’t going to be in the rain or be beaten on all that much. Also possible to skin the plywood in Aluminum for a better look, or possibly aluminum access doors with a plywood top. (I'm planning to make these access doors pretty much the entire side and rear)
I really didn’t have a budget set for this before, but we’ve had some unexpected expenses the last 3 months (broken leg, ER peanut allergy visit, my son is fine now) that is now going to force me be more reasonable with this build.
For that reason, I think 1, 2, 4, 7, 8 could work.
3 doesn’t meet the must haves
5,6 are probably too expensive for now, maybe re-visit in a future build.
1 and 8 require putting tonneau back on and off each time, so they’re out. Also for roughly $1000 more I could get a retractable tonneau which is super cool and is useful to "pinch" cargo against the tailgate to keep it secure. The Retrax allows you to do this on their manual ones, but they're not making one for the JT.
So I’m down to 2,4,7,
Only rack that is 22” tall worth plywood skinning (Leitner is cool, but attaching plywood skin to it wouldn’t be easy, also rear diagonal cross supports limit plywood hauling in the bed), is the max modular one. Max Modular isn’t custom made for the gladiator, so its slant is probably not close to that of the gladiator’s boxier look. It should be lighter than my wooden/8020 frame, but it will cost much more. For that 7 is out.
In case anybody was interested, this is how Ben Franklin made decisions, https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/how-to-make-a-decision-like-ben-franklin/ Basically comparing the pros vs. cons on a T-Chart. I find that while simple, this is very helpful in making decisions. You need to write/type them out though, or you’ll forget.
Now I’m down to 2 or 4.
2. Some type of marine plywood trapezoidal “topper” with side (possibly back access) doors with some type of retractable hard tonneau cover.
a. Cost: Tonneau (roll-n-lock or pace Edwards) + Hundreds in Wood.
b. Work: Lots to build, but don’t have to re-install tonneau after each use
c. Meets Must haves: Yes, can move tonneau back.
d. Pros:
i. Cheaper than 4
ii. Satisfaction of creating something unique
iii. Custom paint job for cheap (do it myself)
iv. BECAUSE PLYWOOD
v. Totally customized to my liking/needs
vi. Ability when daily driven to get taller items moved without taking a topper off
vii. Possibility of not needing a plywood shelf at bed rail height, can use retractable tonneau for that “maybe”
viii. If it doesn’t work out, plywood can be recycled to other projects and I’m out several hundred dollars, but still have a sweet retractable topper.
e. Cons:
i. Could be ugly
ii. Might need to remove for daily use
iii. Heavy (need to calculate, marine ply is lighter than treated, also its aluminum friendly unlike copper based treated)
iv. Durability is unknown, Static load is no problem, dynamic load????? No idea.
v. No rear visibility unless I do some kind of lexan window
vi. Might need to redo paint job for JT2, not end of the world, but will take some work.
4. An aftermarket topper with custom plywood shelf at bed height, need to see more options, fiberglass might be cheaper
a. Cost: Topper + $100 in Wood
b. Work: Not much
c. Meets Must haves: Could leave topper on if it looks good, then yes.
d. Pros:
i. No need to Remove for daily use
ii. Custom painted to color match
iii. Professional look
iv. 600lb dynamic load rated
v. Stainless steel
vi. Waterproof
vii. Ability to see through back with window option
viii. Since no shelves will be customized by me to meet my needs
e. Cons:
i. Expensive
1. https://www.rlddesignusa.com/p/jeep/2020-jeep-gladiator-truck-cap-canopy/ This is about $3,500 shipped without any options
ii. Doesn’t include any kind of shelves, cubbies, so still need to either buy, or create these, just like option 2, but with $3,500 up front cost.
iii. Can’t get tall items under the topper
iv. Color matched paint will either work for JT 1, or JT2. So I might have to repaint it if JT2 happens and could be expensive to do right.
How much do fiberglass toppers weight? Any with doors like that RLD design stainless one?
What kind of dynamic loads can fiberglass toppers handle, what about RTT or cargo racks above them? This is still a POSSIBILITY, but I doubt many will be available anytime soon.
Since I’m getting the JT HOPEFULLY by mid July, right @spenchey ?, I want to use it for several camping trips, a 3 day music festival camping thing, and the Great Lakes Rally yet this year.
The timeline might not allow for option 4, but option 2 I’ve already got the gears grinding on how to execute. This coupled with the large expense differential, I think I’m leaning towards 2. I probably wasted hours and hours when we all know PLYWOOD is the answer.
If anybody read this whole post, you get a thumbs up
, I hope some of you find this helpful and can use this info for your own build, or at least use my Ben Franklin T-Chart for your next project/mod/life choice.I'll still post things I find about toppers and the like on the @Bobs85Reny Tops thread, but once I start tackling my topper/tonneau decisions, i'll post that build here.
Until next time........
Sponsored
