Power inverter, max (safe) size for stock JLUR electrical system?

[Bbino]

I'm looking to buy a power inverter and looking for advice on the maximum wattage that my JLUR's stock electrical system can safely power. I've looked online a bit for inverters so other than having an idea of what's available, I know very little about this topic. I have the tow package with the 240A alternator and 700A battery and would always plan to have the Jeep idling when using the inverter. It'd likely mostly be used to power computer equipment and possibly a very small window air conditioner during periods when I lose grid power. In order to be on the safe side (so as not to damage the computer equip/AC unit), I'd use a battery UPS or some other surge protector in between the inverter and comp equip/AC unit. Total wattage of the equipment I want to power is approx 1,000W (not inc surge to start the AC unit) but would like to have more capacity than that if possible - I'm thinking 2000W continuous/4000W surge power (or slightly more) - possibly something like this 2300Watter https://www.amazon.com/PowerBright-...words=2300&qid=1568132011&s=automotive&sr=1-5. From what I've read a modified sine wave inverter will work with and not damage AC or computer equipm (but if anyone has knowledge of that topic, I'd love to hear feedback on that as well).
So my question is, will my Jeep sufficiently power a 2000W (or slightly larger) inverter and if so, is there any significant risk that it would damage the Jeep in any way (again, I'm clueless on this stuff)? Thanks in advance for any help!

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[2Wheel-Lee]

I have a 2,000 watt inverter in my truck and RV (both have multiple batteries). The power demands to run this much power is crazy for a normal passenger vehicle. An air conditioning unit? How many minutes do you want to run it for with the engine off?

Also note that the alternator doesn't make the rated output at idle - only at much higher RPM.

I'd suggest re-evaluating your needs research the current draw of a 2kw inverter when operating at full power. Also note the battery cable size needed to meet that for the distance you plan on mounting the inverter of that power with a very low (TBD) or acceptable voltage drop. If this isn't eye-opening, then I'll say you didn't find all the right information.

Sure, there are a lot of hacks that will run a 2kw inverter with 8awg or even 4awg wire and say it works...but not at rated power. Even still, you're not going to even be able to run that poor setup for very long with the engine off.

I'm currently in the process of installing another battery in the back of my JL to power my fridge, so I don't need to worry about killing my start battery. Due to the nature of "smart alternators" I'm using a 25 amp Redarc BCDC battery charger to charge the rear battery.

 

[Adventure.AS]

Here is a link to the 'Car Generator' that is a self-contained unit.

 

[spurly]

For those power needs I'd suggest getting a small suitcase sized generator. Like the Honda EU1000 or 2200

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

For those power needs I'd suggest getting a small suitcase sized generator. Like the Honda EU1000 or 2200

Having owned an EU1000 and currently an EU2000, I wouldn't recommend the 1000 for much of anything other than lights or small chargers, as it doesn't have enough power to even run many larger common power tools. The EU2000 (older model) or the EU2200 are very useful.

 

[RV Wrench]

I work on RV's for a living. You NEVER want to run an AC unit on an inverter, no matter how the numbers may add up on paper. People try, but end up spending huge amounts with tons of frustration when it doesnt pan out like they imagined.

Please dont do it.

A compact generator will be less than half the weight for power output, especially if you include the 00 size cables needed to run an inverter that large. Even then, most 2000w generators need some kind of surge capability to start an AC compressor (most of the cheaper inverter-types will electronically overload and cant start an AC). Most RV AC's surge to about 40-50 amps of 110v power on startup (5000-6000 watts), which is why you can find endless threads on people struggling to get their 2000W generator to run an AC.

In my 13 years of working on RV's, I have never seen any AC's or computer equipment damaged for running on a non-sine-wave inverter. None. A laptop actually runs filtered DC directly into it, through the small converter in the cord.

Get a small hitch rack, a 2000-3000w super quiet generator, and call it done. Believe it or not, the Harbor Freight Predator generators are actually pretty solid, if you are looking to save money. I know a few guys who run their RV/AC/tire warmers with the 3500 watt one, and it is just a tad louder than my Yamaha 3000. https://www.harborfreight.com/3500-Watt-Super-Quiet-Inverter-Generator-63584.html

 

[Bbino]

I work on RV's for a living. You NEVER want to run an AC unit on an inverter, no matter how the numbers may add up on paper. People try, but end up spending huge amounts with tons of frustration when it doesnt pan out like they imagined.

Please dont do it.

A compact generator will be less than half the weight for power output, especially if you include the 00 size cables needed to run an inverter that large. Even then, most 2000w generators need some kind of surge capability to start an AC compressor (most of the cheaper inverter-types will electronically overload and cant start an AC). Most RV AC's surge to about 40-50 amps of 110v power on startup (5000-6000 watts), which is why you can find endless threads on people struggling to get their 2000W generator to run an AC.

In my 13 years of working on RV's, I have never seen any AC's or computer equipment damaged for running on a non-sine-wave inverter. None. A laptop actually runs filtered DC directly into it, through the small converter in the cord.

Get a small hitch rack, a 2000-3000w super quiet generator, and call it done. Believe it or not, the Harbor Freight Predator generators are actually pretty solid, if you are looking to save money. I know a few guys who run their RV/AC/tire warmers with the 3500 watt one, and it is just a tad louder than my Yamaha 3000. https://www.harborfreight.com/3500-Watt-Super-Quiet-Inverter-Generator-63584.html

Thanks for the reply. My desire to go with a power inverter is because I don't want to go the generator route. While having the ability to run an A/C unit would be an added plus, it's not a necessity. But it's still not clear to me whether what I described is doable (i.e. safe, practical, etc) and if it's not, why it's not.

"You NEVER want to run an AC unit on an inverter, no matter how the numbers may add up on paper." Why not? What will happen?
I'm not planning on attempting it unless and until I know whether it'll work (safely, etc etc) and be an acceptable solution. Which is what prompted my original post.

And I don't see the weight of the inverter and cables as really being an issue given that I won't be lugging them around - and from what I've found on the internet, it looks like maybe 30 - 35lbs total (2200/4400W pure sine inverter w/ 0awg 15' cables). Generator will be heavier, PITA and too loud for my purposes.

 

[Bbino]

I have a 2,000 watt inverter in my truck and RV (both have multiple batteries). The power demands to run this much power is crazy for a normal passenger vehicle. An air conditioning unit? How many minutes do you want to run it for with the engine off?

Also note that the alternator doesn't make the rated output at idle - only at much higher RPM.

I'd suggest re-evaluating your needs research the current draw of a 2kw inverter when operating at full power. Also note the battery cable size needed to meet that for the distance you plan on mounting the inverter of that power with a very low (TBD) or acceptable voltage drop. If this isn't eye-opening, then I'll say you didn't find all the right information.

Sure, there are a lot of hacks that will run a 2kw inverter with 8awg or even 4awg wire and say it works...but not at rated power. Even still, you're not going to even be able to run that poor setup for very long with the engine off.

I'm currently in the process of installing another battery in the back of my JL to power my fridge, so I don't need to worry about killing my start battery. Due to the nature of "smart alternators" I'm using a 25 amp Redarc BCDC battery charger to charge the rear battery.

Thanks for the reply. The Jeep would always be idling when using the inverter - so the number of minutes running with engine off would be zero. But the fact that the alternator would not be generating peak output (and potentially nowhere close to peak) at idle is one of the concerns that I have that the Jeep's electrical system may not be sufficient to power that sized inverter. While I don't anticipate needing or necessarily using 2000W+, it'd be nice to have that much capacity - if it's doable (without breaking or burning shit down, hurting anyone, costing a bunch of $, etc etc) with the Jeep as-is.

"I'd suggest re-evaluating your needs research the current draw of a 2kw inverter when operating at full power." I got that far - roughly 167 amps - but that doesn't address the question of whether the Jeep can generate that continuously (without bad shit happening).

As far as the cables go, I'd use whatever gauge necessary - and the inverter would stay near/in the Jeep - I have no desire to string 50'+ of 0awg cables into the cottage

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Having a Tazer may be useful. There's a "winch" setting that will hold the engine at 2,000 rpm. I don't know the charge output at that point, but it's better than idle!

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