Proximity door locks retrofit on Wrangler/Gladiator, someone figured it out (DIY writeup)

[Darel]

Except this is half the price and I have no need to program anything else. Also, I thought JSCAN did NOT do that although I'll admit I gave up on the last 39 pages of this thread?

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[Gregj]

Ok, the only thing that little dongle does is enable the programming for Proximity Entry, you still have to add the door harness, handle and cap for the system to work.
$169 is twice what the whole JScan setup costs. I have used JScan to make many other changes on four different Jeeps.
Gregj

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Good Lord, please don’t waste your money on that. JScan can program that feature and many more for less than half that.
Gregj

Someone has seen Jeep owners coming with that one.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Except this is half the price and I have no need to program anything else. Also, I thought JSCAN did NOT do that although I'll admit I gave up on the last 39 pages of this thread?

That's way over the cost of JSCAN. For that matter, get the BT adapter, bypass cable and buy AlfaOBD. Still cheaper and far far more versatile. Again, someone sees Jeep owners coming and is taking advantage of the lack of knowledge of other methods - much cheaper and far more versatile.

JSCAN, AlfaOBD, and tazer all can do the work.

JSCAN wasn't able to do the auto high beam years ago but likely can by now, but these are the settings for AlfaOBD, or JSCAN or whatever software you'd use -

AP1 Left front > smart switch
AP2 right front > smart switch
Passive entry present > yes/ active
Passive entry CSM > yes/ active

And you do need the handles and wiring harnesses.
Check with Benny at AllMOPARParts.com and he's a forum sponsor - he's put together kits for this.

You need the hardware, it's not just a matter of turning it on in the BCM (Body control Module.)

 

[Darel]

I know about the hardware, that's the easy part. It was always getting the dealer to add the code.

The problem I have now is I can't figure out how to buy JScan. I seem to recall it being about $300 and this is only $170. But I can't verify that because how the hell do you buy the module?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I know about the hardware, that's the easy part. It was always getting the dealer to add the code.

The problem I have now is I can't figure out how to buy JScan. I seem to recall it being about $300 and this is only $170. But I can't verify that because how the hell do you buy the module?

Nope, JSCAN on Google Play store, etc. - about 22 bucks.
You still need the security bypass cable and the bluetooth OBD adapter, but for under 100 you can have JSCAN, much more capable and versatile.
Don't know where you got the $300 from - no way.

 

[Darel]

OK. Maybe I was thinking of a taser. That's definitely the better option.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

OK. Maybe I was thinking of a taser. That's definitely the better option.

Tazer, yeah, it runs into hundreds.

 

[Gregj]

I use this cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PTBZ6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

And this OBD2 dongle
https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Wirele...e&qid=1714617206&sprefix=icar+,aps,146&sr=8-3

It does everything I need it to do. You just need to download the JScan app and purchase a license for $20ish bucks in the app, depending on which flavor of phone you use.
Gregj

 

[ecidiego]

58 pages....searches give worthless results...

finally getting around to this. What's the latest consensus on the window bolts? Heat with solder gun, then lefty loosey righty tighty with manual ratchet until loose enough?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

58 pages....searches give worthless results...

finally getting around to this. What's the latest consensus on the window bolts? Heat with solder gun, then lefty loosey righty tighty with manual ratchet until loose enough?

My experience dates back to my 2020 model year Gladiator........... so take it that something may have changed, or maybe not (how useless is that LOL)

I had no trouble with those "bolts". Yes, I was careful and went back and forth a bit, but I also did it all in 35-40 degree weather in an unheated unattached garage.
Some guys just like to take the power tools to everything they see - the result is sometimes not pretty. Fast, but how much time is saved when you spend 30 minutes fixing a busted bolt.

Heating with a 200-300 watt soldering gun might not be bad - I'd use the highest wattage possible to heat it fast, smaller wattage will take forever to heat and in the process, the heat spreads to everything around it. More wattage, applied fast - heat doesn't spread out.

Just random ideas while I grapple with paying our property insurance.................

 

[Gregj]

58 pages....searches give worthless results...

finally getting around to this. What's the latest consensus on the window bolts? Heat with solder gun, then lefty loosey righty tighty with manual ratchet until loose enough?

Pretty much it. Just go slow and try to loosen and if it gets real hard to turn, tighten it back up, continue back and forth till it’s loose enough.
Gregj

 

[vicsvx]

I read about 30pages of this thread... But my question doesn't seem to be answered and I gave up. I did see somone from Illinois selling what I'm looking for but he hasn't been active for years it seems.

I have a 21 sport s eco, and pins 15 and 16 are present and I have tazer.

My question, does anyone know the pin and connector part numbers to build a 2 wire harness to add onto the existing harness? This would be cheaper and eco friendly

 

[vicsvx]

All right, I did the deed last night and everything went smooth... Other than the windows don't go all the way down (probably need to just readjust)

But other than that, everything was easy and smooth. Fought with removing some connections but all in all took a 1.5 hours. Window bolts came right off easy peezy. Tazor was easy to program

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