Question: Winch and Grille Guard on Plastic Bumper

[GSD Guy]

New to the forum, have a Mojave and want to add the 7" LEDs (82215386AB) using the Winch and Grille Guard (82215351). Wondering if anyone knows if the Mopar Winch and Grille Guard lines up with the plastic bumper at the attachment sites (are the contours the same, or is the shape of the plastic bumper different than the steel in those areas)??? So long as the contour is the same, I'm sure I can figure out a way to mount it. Don't really want to source a Rubicon steel bumper (cost, added weight, etc.) and don't like the look of the Auxiliary Light Mount Brackets that attach to the frame (82215428). Don't want to go aftermarket front bumper either. Any knowledge in this area is appreciated!! Thanks

Sponsored

 

[punk'n]

New to the forum, have a Mojave and want to add the 7" LEDs (82215386AB) using the Winch and Grille Guard (82215351). Wondering if anyone knows if the Mopar Winch and Grille Guard lines up with the plastic bumper at the attachment sites (are the contours the same, or is the shape of the plastic bumper different than the steel in those areas)??? ......

I was wondering the same (Overland plastic bumper) but couldn't get a positive answer. So, while I had my bumper off to paint the front hooks, I fabbed up my own bar with some leftover pipe bends from a prior motorcycle exhaust build.

Of course, this doesn't answer your question so its not too much help. But, I did want to point out that you may want to use some sort of backing plate (see 3rd photo above) to spread out the pressure on the plastic if you bolt one up.

If the Mojave and Overland plastic bumpers are the same, you will see when you attempt this that I bolted through the bumper cover (not too rigid or strong) and then through the inner hard molded plastic (much stronger). Although I was hoping to tie into the metal frame of the bumper, it would have been much more complicated, and this made the mount very rigid anyway.

Since I had the bumper off, it was easy to make a template which showed the taper of the pocket the bolts would go through. So, I made some steel backing plates to spread the clamping pressure out (also tacked nuts to the plate so I did not have to hold them while installing but this is not mandatory). Of course, they do not use a backing plate on a metal bumper as its not needed. But you may want to consider making one up for the plastic bumper.

Here's a photo of the back of the bumper's rigid plastic that I swiped off the net to show you where I am referring to:

Anyway, Sorry I couldn't give you a definitive answer but maybe this will still help some.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I was wondering the same (Overland plastic bumper) but couldn't get a positive answer. So, while I had my bumper off to paint the front hooks, I fabbed up my own bar with some leftover pipe bends from a prior motorcycle exhaust build.

Of course, this doesn't answer your question so its not too much help. But, I did want to point out that you may want to use some sort of backing plate (see 3rd photo above) to spread out the pressure on the plastic if you bolt one up.

If the Mojave and Overland plastic bumpers are the same, you will see when you attempt this that I bolted through the bumper cover (not too rigid or strong) and then through the inner hard molded plastic (much stronger). Although I was hoping to tie into the metal frame of the bumper, it would have been much more complicated, and this made the mount very rigid anyway.

Since I had the bumper off, it was easy to make a template which showed the taper of the pocket the bolts would go through. So, I made some steel backing plates to spread the clamping pressure out (also tacked nuts to the plate so I did not have to hold them while installing but this is not mandatory). Of course, they do not use a backing plate on a metal bumper as its not needed. But you may want to consider making one up for the plastic bumper.

Here's a photo of the back of the bumper's rigid plastic that I swiped off the net to show you where I am referring to:

Anyway, Sorry I couldn't give you a definitive answer but maybe this will still help some.

VERY nicely done. That looks as good as any commercial mount, IMO - better than some.
Really like the looks of that on the Overland bumper.

 

[punk'n]

VERY nicely done. That looks as good as any commercial mount, IMO - better than some.
Really like the looks of that on the Overland bumper.

Thank you.

I actually like the Overland bumper, but I was just looking to change it up a little. I didn't need a tank grade front bumper or a huge bar so this was the way to go for me. Plus, I love making things up from leftover parts laying around.

 

[GSD Guy]

Thank you.

I actually like the Overland bumper, but I was just looking to change it up a little. I didn't need a tank grade front bumper or a huge bar so this was the way to go for me. Plus, I love making things up from leftover parts laying around.

I was wondering the same (Overland plastic bumper) but couldn't get a positive answer. So, while I had my bumper off to paint the front hooks, I fabbed up my own bar with some leftover pipe bends from a prior motorcycle exhaust build.

Of course, this doesn't answer your question so its not too much help. But, I did want to point out that you may want to use some sort of backing plate (see 3rd photo above) to spread out the pressure on the plastic if you bolt one up.

If the Mojave and Overland plastic bumpers are the same, you will see when you attempt this that I bolted through the bumper cover (not too rigid or strong) and then through the inner hard molded plastic (much stronger). Although I was hoping to tie into the metal frame of the bumper, it would have been much more complicated, and this made the mount very rigid anyway.

Since I had the bumper off, it was easy to make a template which showed the taper of the pocket the bolts would go through. So, I made some steel backing plates to spread the clamping pressure out (also tacked nuts to the plate so I did not have to hold them while installing but this is not mandatory). Of course, they do not use a backing plate on a metal bumper as its not needed. But you may want to consider making one up for the plastic bumper.

Here's a photo of the back of the bumper's rigid plastic that I swiped off the net to show you where I am referring to:

Anyway, Sorry I couldn't give you a definitive answer but maybe this will still help some.

No, thank you this is definitely very helpful!! I haven't pulled the bumper off yet to see what is back there so this is a huge help in knowing it's even possible. Looks awesome!! Wish I had the means to weld right now because this would be perfect. Exactly the look I'm going for and definitely don't need a tank front bumper either, like you I like the look of the stock bumper just want to enhance it. Appreciate you taking the time to share!

 

[Jaxmax]

I guess a winch plate can be made with a backing plate for the winch roller or hawse, why not?....Jack

 

[punk'n]

No, thank you this is definitely very helpful!! I haven't pulled the bumper off yet to see what is back there so this is a huge help in knowing it's even possible. Looks awesome!! Wish I had the means to weld right now because this would be perfect. Exactly the look I'm going for and definitely don't need a tank front bumper either, like you I like the look of the stock bumper just want to enhance it. Appreciate you taking the time to share!

Not a problem.

If you can get someone who has a 82215351 Grille Guard to measure the distance between the mounting bolts it will give you the answer as you could match the dimensions of the plastic bumper.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not a problem.

If you can get someone who has a 82215351 Grille Guard to measure the distance between the mounting bolts it will give you the answer as you could match the dimensions of the plastic bumper.

You could likely sell a couple of those bars like you made for yourself.......

 

[punk'n]

I guess a winch plate can be made with a backing plate for the winch roller or hawse, why not?....Jack

I can't see why not. The backer plate would just have to span the width of the tow hooks since they bolt through the metal part of the bumper and to the frame.

(Below is another pic grabbed of the web to show what I mean. The yellow is to show where plate would be needed and red to show where the hooks bolt through- NOTE four of the holes are not visible in the photo of where the hooks go through the metal of the bumper.)

 

[punk'n]

You could likely sell a couple of those bars like you made for yourself.......

Unfortunately I'm not set up for making multiple sets.

When I build things for myself, the time it takes doesn't matter so much. But, it would take me way too long to make more. I would have to make up a jig etc. to make sure that they are all identical. I did that when I was building different sets of custom exhausts for one of my cars and the jig alone took forever to get exact (but was necessary to make them perfect). And, that was just for my own car.

Well, that plus I have too many projects in the hopper right now.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Unfortunately I'm not set up for making multiple sets.

When I build things for myself, the time it takes doesn't matter so much. But, it would take me way too long to make more. I would have to make up a jig etc. to make sure that they are all identical. I did that when I was building different sets of custom exhausts for one of my cars and the jig alone took forever to get exact (but was necessary to make them perfect). And, that was just for my own car.

Well, that plus I have too many projects in the hopper right now.

I hear ya - it's pretty bad when I make some project for my wife and then a month later "can you make a couple of these for Denise and Kathryn?" Yikes.
I explain I used scraps I had, turned parts on the lathe, milled this or that, brazed these parts together........ but you know in the end, I end up making 2 more LOL

Last time I did something custom on my cars, I made notes, templates, and use micrometers and wrote measurements down. And sure enough "how far did you cut that spindle down to center the rotor in the caliper?"
I made a template for the hole in the bell housing to place the flywheel sensor for a 4.0, and made a template for the spoiler for a Spirit or SX4 and have had people ask if they could buy templates from me.

 

[punk'n]

..............Exactly the look I'm going for and definitely don't need a tank front bumper either, like you I like the look of the stock bumper just want to enhance it. Appreciate you taking the time to share!

So, as a follow-up to this.....

I measured center to center between my bolt holes and my bar measured 25 1/2" on the front holes and 25 3/8" for the rear holes (I mounted the bar's base plates at a slight taper to follow the slight angle at the top of the plastic bumper).

I asked bgenlvtex to measure his mopar bar and he replied " 25 5/16" on a tape measure".

So, it MIGHT be doable but trying to align with the plastic "pocket" might be a challenge. Of course, anything is possible

 

[GSD Guy]

So, as a follow-up to this.....

I measured center to center between my bolt holes and my bar measured 25 1/2" on the front holes and 25 3/8" for the rear holes (I mounted the bar's base plates at a slight taper to follow the slight angle at the top of the plastic bumper).

I asked bgenlvtex to measure his mopar bar and he replied " 25 5/16" on a tape measure".

So, it MIGHT be doable but trying to align with the plastic "pocket" might be a challenge. Of course, anything is possible

Thanks punk'n!!! I don't know anyone with the bar so I posted a WTB ad hoping I could get a used one reasonable and resell if it didn't work out (so far no sellers though). Seems like it may be doable but could be tight (side note, it's nice to see people still know what a 16th is on a tape measure haha). May not have room for a nut but may be possible with tapping the inside plate itself since that may allow me to fit the narrower spacing. Hopefully someone will want to sell one. Thanks again!!

 

[punk'n]

Thanks punk'n!!! I don't know anyone with the bar so I posted a WTB ad hoping I could get a used one reasonable and resell if it didn't work out (so far no sellers though). Seems like it may be doable but could be tight (side note, it's nice to see people still know what a 16th is on a tape measure haha). May not have room for a nut but may be possible with tapping the inside plate itself since that may allow me to fit the narrower spacing. Hopefully someone will want to sell one. Thanks again!!

No Problem.

Tapping the inside plate is a good idea. I probably should have just done that!

Hope you grab a bar and it work out!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks punk'n!!! I don't know anyone with the bar so I posted a WTB ad hoping I could get a used one reasonable and resell if it didn't work out (so far no sellers though). Seems like it may be doable but could be tight (side note, it's nice to see people still know what a 16th is on a tape measure haha). May not have room for a nut but may be possible with tapping the inside plate itself since that may allow me to fit the narrower spacing. Hopefully someone will want to sell one. Thanks again!!

You might try something - the worst that can happen is you get a "NO!" back......
Contact the vendor on eBay that sells the Rubicon-style steel bumpers for under 500.
Those come with a "winch guard" bar - like I have on my truck. MAYBE, depending on how they buy things, if they ever get back and "dented or scratched" parts - they MAY sell you just the bar.
All it would cost to find out is 5 minutes time to look them up and write to them.
Several Jeep people have said that the vendor was good about replacing any damaged, dinged or missing parts, so who knows.

Otherwise - there's always someone around who is swapping out parts, maybe has a bar but wants a bigger one, or different one, whatever.

Sponsored