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Questions on diesel after test drive.

OMTBiker

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Background:

Currently have a 2020 Rubicon, Mopar lift and 35's. I have never owned a diesel vehicle before.

Happy with the Gladiator but not overly impressed with towing especially considering our trailer is only 2800 lbs dry, ~3100 lbs loaded (3500 gross). On our trip out west I averaged 10.28 MPG, the Gladiator did not like going above 60-62 MPH across South Dakota on the flat to rolling terrain and I was only averaging 7-9 MPG. While in Wyoming and Utah I had several tanks in the 7MPG range and the truck felt like it was struggling in the mountains, stayed in 3rd gear the majority of the time at 4500-5000 RPMs and no more that 45 MPH.

Have taken the trailer on a couple other trips and have seen as low as 6.6 MPG keeping the speed at 62. This does not seem right as others are getting twice that with heavier trailers. The other half's Wrangler Sahara will pull the same trailer at 11-12 MPG doing 70 and 14-15 MPG at 60-62.

I have been looking at the diesel Gladiator in hope to have a better experience in towing, yes I now there are limitations but I am not looking to purchase a dedicated tow rig. If that was the case I would order the Wrangler Rubicon 392 and buy a full size truck. We are destination campers and choose to explore the areas we go to, including off-roading.

On to the questions:
I test drove a Rubicon diesel yesterday and noticed a few things, mostly good but a couple that I am not sure should be happening. I left the dealership and hopped on the expressway, about 10 miles in I started noticing a diesel exhaust fume smell in the cabin (the climate control was not turned on). I turned the climate control on which dissipated the smell, note to self, keep the climate control on. Later on the test drive I noticed a couple times there was an odor, not exactly sure how to describe it but not very pleasant.

Is smelling diesel exhaust and potentially DEF fumes normal?

The other thing I noticed is that it felt like the computer was pulling power and short shifting the transmission on an aggressive take off, the truck would start to accelerate quickly then back off. This is concerning especially if you need to pull out quickly into traffic.

Is the pulling of power expected to not strain the rest of the drivetrain, the transmission should have no issue with the torque.

Overall, you can definitely notice the torque and power increase. The truck had much more power on the expressway when trying to pass than my current one. Even with aggressive driving, trying to simulate stop and go traffic, etc. the gas miles never dropped below 20 MPG and was almost 24 MPG when I returned it.

My other concern is payload capacity, payload on a loaded Rubicon is ~900 lbs, current is ~1100 lbs. How are others handling the payload limitation. We travel very light; for our 2 week trip out west the trailer was ~3200 lbs with the tongue weight ~340 lbs. I had a generator (86 lbs), 5 gallon of gas for the generator, 55qt cooler filled with bottles of water/ice, tool bag, etc. Total in bed was probably 300 lbs. It is just the two of us in the cab at ~340 lbs. We did not take the bikes this trip, the bikes would add: 50 lbs for the rack and 40-50 lbs for the bikes themselves.

We are looking at a slightly bigger trailer, the weight of the new trailer would be ~3300 (3900 gross) dry with a tongue weight of ~500.

With just ourselves, trailer and gear (no bikes), we are over the payload by about 60 lbs. Add the bikes and we would be over by almost 200. How are people towing some the trailers they show in their posts?


Thanks in advance.
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Change your axle ratio or wait for the 6.7 and was the rear gun port open while driving the stink pot?
 

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I can't answer your diesel questions, but pulling our off grid trailer (1.500lbs empty and 3500lbs max) I typically get about 10mpg. Heading west you normally have a head wind and I'm now in the 7-8mpg range cursing at 65mph. I've got stock gearing and suspension but am on 35s.

The JT and my trailer are both bricks, so I don't really expect great gas mileage. It does suck only being able to go about 150 miles before needing gas though :(

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Smess

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CLICK ON THE EXPAND OPTION AT THE BOTTOM OF THE POST AND MY RESPONSES ARE IN ALL CAPS!!!!!!!!

Background:

Currently have a 2020 Rubicon, Mopar lift and 35's. I have never owned a diesel vehicle before.

Happy with the Gladiator but not overly impressed with towing especially considering our trailer is only 2800 lbs dry, ~3100 lbs loaded (3500 gross). On our trip out west I averaged 10.28 MPG, the Gladiator did not like going above 60-62 MPH across South Dakota on the flat to rolling terrain and I was only averaging 7-9 MPG. While in Wyoming and Utah I had several tanks in the 7MPG range and the truck felt like it was struggling in the mountains, stayed in 3rd gear the majority of the time at 4500-5000 RPMs and no more that 45 MPH.

Have taken the trailer on a couple other trips and have seen as low as 6.6 MPG keeping the speed at 62. This does not seem right as others are getting twice that with heavier trailers. The other half's Wrangler Sahara will pull the same trailer at 11-12 MPG doing 70 and 14-15 MPG at 60-62.

I have been looking at the diesel Gladiator in hope to have a better experience in towing, yes I now there are limitations but I am not looking to purchase a dedicated tow rig. If that was the case I would order the Wrangler Rubicon 392 and buy a full size truck. We are destination campers and choose to explore the areas we go to, including off-roading.

THAT DIESEL IS GOING TO PULL THE SHIT OUT OF WHATEVER YOU GIVE IT VERSUS THE GAS, IGNORE THE SPECS. GUYS WHERE I LIVE JUICE THEIR DIESELS TO 500 PLUS HP AND DRAG RACE THEM. IF YOU JUICED A GASSER TO THE SAME EXTREMES IT WOULD MAKE IT 50 YARDS IN THE DRAG RACE BEFORE IT EXPLODED. A GASSER HAS TO BE BUILT TO HANDLE THE POWER THEY ARE GIVEN. THEY CANT HANDLE JUICE THEY WERENT DESIGNED TO HANDLE LIKE A DIESEL

On to the questions:
I test drove a Rubicon diesel yesterday and noticed a few things, mostly good but a couple that I am not sure should be happening. I left the dealership and hopped on the expressway, about 10 miles in I started noticing a diesel exhaust fume smell in the cabin (the climate control was not turned on). I turned the climate control on which dissipated the smell, note to self, keep the climate control on. Later on the test drive I noticed a couple times there was an odor, not exactly sure how to describe it but not very pleasant.

YOU ARE IMAGINING THE SMELL BECAUSE DIESELS TWENTY YEARS AGO WERE KNOWN FOR BEING LOUD AND STINKY. I HAVE A RAM 3500 (FIFTH ONE) WITH A CUMMINS AND A GLADIATOR DIESEL AND NO SMELLS IN ANY OF THEM. YOU COULD BE SMELLING THE OVERSPRAY OF PAINT ON EXHAUST BURNING OFF BUT I THINK YOU ARE SMELLING THE REASON TO KEEP YOUR GASSER BECAUSE OF THE LOSS YOU ARE GOING TO TAKE VS THE GAS YOU ARE BURNING. THE DIFFERENCE IS THE GASSER WILL STRUGGLE AND SWALLOW LOTS OF FUEL. THE DIESEL WILL ACT LIKE NOTHING IS BACK THERE. DIESELS FIND POWER YOU NEVER KNEW THEY HAD WHEN PUT UNDER A LOAD. ITS LIKE THE LITTLE QUIET KID IN HIGH SCHOOL AND SOME BIG JOCK STARTS TO BULLY HIM AND THE LITTLE GUY KICKS THE SHIT OUT OF THE GUY ALMOST TWICE HIS SIZE AND EVERYONES REACTION IS WOW I DID NOT KNOW THAT GUY HAD IT IN HIM. THATS HOW I EXPLAIN A DIESEL. DIESEL WILL SUFFER SOME FUEL ECONOMY LOSS UNDER LOAD BUT NOT EVEN CLOSE TO THAT GASSER SWALLOWING GAS. AND REMEMBER THE TURBO IS LIKE INJECTING A STEROID, IT ASSISTS AND COMPLIMENTS THE DIESEL WHILE THE GASSER GETS CRIPPLED BY THE LOAD AND STRUGGLES.

Is smelling diesel exhaust and potentially DEF fumes normal?

NO, SEE ABOVE OR YOU DROVE A LEMON

The other thing I noticed is that it felt like the computer was pulling power and short shifting the transmission on an aggressive take off, the truck would start to accelerate quickly then back off. This is concerning especially if you need to pull out quickly into traffic.

DIESELS ARE TURBO, YOU ARE FELLING THE TURBO ENGAGE AND THEN BACKING OFF. YOU CANT HEAR THE TURBO WHISTELING IN THE GLADIATOR LIKE MANY OTHER CARS AND TRUBOS TODAY DONT WHISTLE NEARLY AS LOUD. ADD A PEDAL COMMANDER AND YOU WILL FEEL LIKE YOU ADDED ANOTHER 50HP AND YOU CAN ADJUST IT TO BE THE RACE TRUCK YOU ARE LOOKING FOR. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO EVEN TURN IT UP TO MAX.

Is the pulling of power expected to not strain the rest of the drivetrain, the transmission should have no issue with the torque.

THAT DIESEL IS NOT POWERFUL ENOUGH TO HURT THAT DRIVETRAIN

Overall, you can definitely notice the torque and power increase. The truck had much more power on the expressway when trying to pass than my current one. Even with aggressive driving, trying to simulate stop and go traffic, etc. the gas miles never dropped below 20 MPG and was almost 24 MPG when I returned it.

IF YOU THINK IT HAS NOW ADD A PEDAL COMMANDER AND TURN IT UP TO 80%

My other concern is payload capacity, payload on a loaded Rubicon is ~900 lbs, current is ~1100 lbs. How are others handling the payload limitation. We travel very light; for our 2 week trip out west the trailer was ~3200 lbs with the tongue weight ~340 lbs. I had a generator (86 lbs), 5 gallon of gas for the generator, 55qt cooler filled with bottles of water/ice, tool bag, etc. Total in bed was probably 300 lbs. It is just the two of us in the cab at ~340 lbs. We did not take the bikes this trip, the bikes would add: 50 lbs for the rack and 40-50 lbs for the bikes themselves.

GLADIATOR HAS HIGHEST PAYLOAD RATING IN ITS CLASS, 1700 LBS. I THINK YOU WILL BE FINE.

We are looking at a slightly bigger trailer, the weight of the new trailer would be ~3300 (3900 gross) dry with a tongue weight of ~500.

NO PROBLEM

With just ourselves, trailer and gear (no bikes), we are over the payload by about 60 lbs. Add the bikes and we would be over by almost 200. How are people towing some the trailers they show in their posts?

THE GASSER MIGHT BE RATED AT 1000LBS MORE AND WE KNOW PART OF IT IS THE HEAVIER MOTOR BUT THERE IS NO 6 BANGER GASSER NATURALLY ASPIRATED THAT IS GOING TO COMPARE TO A TURBO DIESEL, IT WILL PULL ANY LOAD THE GASSER WILL, THE RATING IS ONLY BECAUSE OF GVWR

YOU ARE COMPARING TWO VEHICLES THAT ARE IN DIFFERENT ARENAS. I TOWED HIGH PERFORMANCE BOATS ACROSS THE NATION FOR 9 YEARS. AVERAGE LOAD WAS 18K

I WOULD TOW A LOAD WITH A DIESEL RATED AT 20K IF LOAD WAS 18 ALL DAY LONG. GASSER RULE IS TOW HALF WHAT IT CAN HANDLE BECAUSE THE GAS PEDAL IS MASHED TO THE FLOOR AND THE GAS NEEDLE IS MOVING WHILE YOU WATCH IT.

I HOPE I ANSWERED YOUR QUESTIONS, IF YOU KEEP THE GASSER BUY THE EDGE PULSAR AND GET THE EXTRA 30HP AND PUT IT IN TOW MODE AND YOU WILL BE HAPPIER. FUEL ECONOMY WILL STILL SUCK. MEANWHILE I WILL BE PULLING TWICE THE LOAD YOU ARE AND I WILL WAVE AS I PASS AND YOU CAN ENJOY THE BUMPER STICKERS ON MY TRUCK AND I WILL STILL ONLY MAYBE SUFFER 10 OR 20% FUEL ECONOMY WHILE THE GASSER WILL SUFFER AT LEAST 50% OR MORE.

YOU WILL NEVER BUY A GAS TRUCK AGAIN IF YOU GET THE DIESEL, THE ONLY DOWN SIDE IS NOT ALL GAS STATIONS HAVE DIESEL BUT YOUR RANGE IS SO MUCH BETTER YOU CAN GO FURTHER TO SEARCH.

DONT LET PEOPLE START SAYING THIS FUEL IS MORE EXPENSIVE AND INITIAL COST OF DIESEL IS HIGHER AND THEY CALCULATE THE DIESEL MOTORS EXTRA COST AND PRICE OF DIESEL ETC AND COME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT THE GASSER IS MORE ECONOMICAL OVERALL. WHAT THEY ARE FORGETTING IS THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR ON A HILL OR MOUNTAIN AND THE LITTLE GASSER SAYING "I THINK I CAN" AND THE DIESEL BUZZES BY TURBOS WHISTELING AND THEN TALK TO ME ABOUT A COST BENEFIT ANALYSIS ON THE MOTORS AND THE FUEL. NOT TO MENTION IF YOU DO THE STUFF YOU DO, YOU CAN CARRY EXTRA DIESEL IN THE BED AND DONT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT EXPLOSION. I GUARANTEE YOU THE NEXT THING YOU WILL BE SHOPPING FOR WILL BE IS A DIESEL GENERATOR.

DIESELS ARE A FRACTION OF THE MAINTENANCE AND LAST A LOT LOT LONGER.


Thanks in advance.
 
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OMTBiker

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Thank you to those that have replied, the replies are appreciated. I have no intention of running or installing any sort of tuning, etc. I have owned turbocharged vehicles off and on for almost 17 years and am very familiar with how they feel.

The pulling of power I mentioned would not be the turbo spinning up then backing off, you feel the power start to build then nothing for a second then it starts to build again.

The initial smell could very well be new engine or exhaust smell just more pronounced than my prior vehicles. This smell did go away once I turned on the climate control and did not return. The other smell was not a burning smell, it was chemical smell and only happened a couple times for a short duration.

As far as payload, the diesels have decreased payload capacity as a result of the additional weight, etc. My rubicon GVWR is 6250 lbs and 1192 lbs payload, the diesel is 6450 GVWR and 924 lbs payload. I am sure it could handle more but these are the legal limits. Take the ~540 lbs tongue weight of the larger trailer I am looking at off of the payload and that leaves 380 lbs, 40 lbs after people, for gear. I am not that concerned with the 1000 less tow capacity as the larger trailer is only 3900 lb gross.

I have one additional question with regard to diesel vehicles in colder climates and issues with diesel fuel and def fluid gelling or freezing. I have been reading and know there are additives to help but how much of a concern is this even when using preventative measures.

if anyone can not tell by now, I am a very analytical person and need specific information and data.


Thanks again.
 
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OMTBiker

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I can't answer your diesel questions, but pulling our off grid trailer (1.500lbs empty and 3500lbs max) I typically get about 10mpg. Heading west you normally have a head wind and I'm now in the 7-8mpg range cursing at 65mph. I've got stock gearing and suspension but am on 35s.

The JT and my trailer are both bricks, so I don't really expect great gas mileage. It does suck only being able to go about 150 miles before needing gas though :(

GrandmaGoesCamping-24.jpg
I was expecting a drop in mileage but 6-7 is really bad with a relatively light trailer. I can relate to filling up often, on our trip out west we were filling up every 2 to 2-1/2 hours. 34 fill-ups in 2 weeks.
 

Etoimos

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I was expecting a drop in mileage but 6-7 is really bad with a relatively light trailer. I can relate to filling up often, on our trip out west we were filling up every 2 to 2-1/2 hours. 34 fill-ups in 2 weeks.
The head wind was the killer, since it is the lack of aerodynamics that hurt my setup and not the weight of things.
 

Mac

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Did you tow your trailer with your truck before putting on the 35s? Tire size makes a big difference.
 

Etoimos

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Did you tow your trailer with your truck before putting on the 35s? Tire size makes a big difference.
Yes, tire sizes does effect mpgs quite a bit. I did not pull it on any trips with the stock tire size. Before the 35s going on the JT (and the trailer) I was pulling it with my JKUR on 37s.

Without the trailer I typically average about 17mpg in the JT.
 

Mac

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Not so much mileage as power, I have towed my boat, 3500lbs, on both stock tires, 31”, and then on 34” tires the difference is very noticeable.
 

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OMTBiker

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Not so much mileage as power, I have towed my boat, 3500lbs, on both stock tires, 31”, and then on 34” tires the difference is very noticeable.
When you say not so much mileage as power, what is your mileage while towing?
 
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Etoimos

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Not so much mileage as power, I have towed my boat, 3500lbs, on both stock tires, 31”, and then on 34” tires the difference is very noticeable.
I don't recall any real difference in power between the stock 33s and the 35s (I have the 8 speed if it matters). This is with or without the trailer.

Did you notice a power difference between the 31s and 34s when not towing?
 

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I did not check the mileage too closely when towing but I believe it was around 10-11mpg. I have the max tow package, the power difference is not as noticeable when not towing but it definitely does not stay in 8th the way it did on the 31” tires on the highway, it will drop gears much more often
 
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OMTBiker

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Bringing this back up hoping for more informational replies from diesel owners.
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