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Rear brake lines

JTGuy

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I installed a Mopar 2 inch lift with the Fox 2.5 shocks. All has been well but I noticed when flexing the Jeep for possible new Accutune Fox shocks that the rear brake lines are fairly tight at full sag. The Accutune shocks are 1 inch longer. Has anyone else had a problem with the factory brake lines being too short and how hard is it to replace and bleed them? Need about 2 more inches of length I guess.just to be safe. I hate to brake the factory seal on them .
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Mojave20

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I installed a Mopar 2 inch lift with the Fox 2.5 shocks. All has been well but I noticed when flexing the Jeep for possible new Accutune Fox shocks that the rear brake lines are fairly tight at full sag. The Accutune shocks are 1 inch longer. Has anyone else had a problem with the factory brake lines being too short and how hard is it to replace and bleed them? Need about 2 more inches of length I guess.just to be safe. I hate to brake the factory seal on them .
Replacement is straight forward. I replaced mine with Grimm extended lines, they’re 20% currently. Got them and Mopar fluid from Northridge. I bled mine with a hand vacuum pump and pedal feel was good after.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/brake-lines/10053-grimm-offroad-rear-brake-line-kit-black
 

Rusty PW

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Bleeding brakes isn’t too bad, as long as you have a helper. One person depresses the brake pedal and hold it while the other opens and closes the bleeder, then repeat several times.
 

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Bleeding brakes isn’t too bad, as long as you have a helper. One person depresses the brake pedal and hold it while the other opens and closes the bleeder, then repeat several times.
Just don't do that on an older vehicle with some miles on it...............

These won't be an issue.

I've always vacuum bled modern vehicles, and gravity bleeding works great on pre-ABS systems.

As long as a person is prepared, all tools at hand, parts on the ready and does a quick swap there's really not a lot of air introduced so bleeding by any method should be quick and relatively easy.
 

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Rusty PW

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Just don't do that on an older vehicle with some miles on it...............

These won't be an issue.

I've always vacuum bled modern vehicles, and gravity bleeding works great on pre-ABS systems.

As long as a person is prepared, all tools at hand, parts on the ready and does a quick swap there's really not a lot of air introduced so bleeding by any method should be quick and relatively easy.
High mileage vehicles watch out for. When bleeding the brakes on them. The master cylinder get a wear pattern in the bore from short strokes. When you bleed them, what happens is that the piston is now moving past that wear pattern. Sometimes it will damage the o-rings on the piston. And you end up replacing the master cylinder. To prevent this. Sometimes I have put a piece of 4x2 under the brake pedal to limit the pedal travel.
 
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JTGuy

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I remember the old way. 2 people, one in cab push pedal down then one at caliper open valve briefly for air then give signal to raise pedal, repeat. Just don't want to leave air in the line and have a soft pedal or dragging pad.
 

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I remember the old way. 2 people, one in cab push pedal down then one at caliper open valve briefly for air then give signal to raise pedal, repeat. Just don't want to leave air in the line and have a soft pedal or dragging pad.
From what I’ve read and been told, these have computer controlled pumps. It requires a computer to be hooked up and two people to properly bleed these. I’m actually replacing my rear lines for the same reason, but I’m having a trusted shop do it for me so they can be properly bled. Any that know me know that I do almost everything myself, including pads, rotors, etc. but I’m not doing a driveway bleed on these.
 

SoK66

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From what I’ve read and been told, these have computer controlled pumps. It requires a computer to be hooked up and two people to properly bleed these. I’m actually replacing my rear lines for the same reason, but I’m having a trusted shop do it for me so they can be properly bled. Any that know me know that I do almost everything myself, including pads, rotors, etc. but I’m not doing a driveway bleed on these.
I think that refers to bleeding the abs system as well as the main circuit. As long as the master cylinder isn’t allowed to completely empty conventional bleeding processes work properly. I like pressure bleeding as that’s what the factories use when the vehicles are assembled. Vacuum bleeding is a good alternative, provided the bleed screws are sealed with Teflon tape to prevent air intrusion into the caliper.
 

Stan H

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From what I’ve read and been told, these have computer controlled pumps. It requires a computer to be hooked up and two people to properly bleed these. I’m actually replacing my rear lines for the same reason, but I’m having a trusted shop do it for me so they can be properly bled. Any that know me know that I do almost everything myself, including pads, rotors, etc. but I’m not doing a driveway bleed on these.
Say Huh?? Computer controlled pumps??
 

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WILDHOBO

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Say Huh?? Computer controlled pumps??
Or abs. Either way, a computer is required to do a proper bleed, according to a shop I do trust.
 

Stan H

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Or abs. Either way, a computer is required to do a proper bleed, according to a shop I do trust.
Now thats a new one. Definitely never heard that before
 

WILDHOBO

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Now thats a new one. Definitely never heard that before
Nor had I, and I had every intention of swapping the lines myself and doing the bleed. They were pretty convincing. And they’re aware that I prefer to do things myself, and usually support that.
 

Stan H

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Nor had I, and I had every intention of swapping the lines myself and doing the bleed. They were pretty convincing. And they’re aware that I prefer to do things myself, and usually support that.
I too am a grease monkey.. Just did my lift. I have rebuilt motorcycles , V8's transmissions etc... and have bled plenty of brakes in my life. I do all my own stuff and to think that something that simply would require a shop computer literally blows my mind🤯
 

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High mileage vehicles watch out for. When bleeding the brakes on them. The master cylinder get a wear pattern in the bore from short strokes. When you bleed them, what happens is that the piston is now moving past that wear pattern. Sometimes it will damage the o-rings on the piston. And you end up replacing the master cylinder. To prevent this. Sometimes I have put a piece of 4x2 under the brake pedal to limit the pedal travel.
Learned something new today 👍🏼🍺
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