Rear spring removal

[j.o.y.ride]

Once the truck is on jack stands, tires off, bottom shock bolt out, sway bar off, brake lines moved, etc.

Instead of wrestling with the axle to get space for the shocks, once it's ready to get the springs out could I just jack one side of the axle tube up to make the other side droop even more to remove the spring? Adjust the jack stand a bit on that side if it actually lifts the truck on that side some.

Or is this widow maker territory?

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[TJDave]

Once on jack stands, tires off, shocks and anti swaybar disconnected, I popped the jounst bumper out of the upper bumpstop. Directly below, on the axle, is a perfect little platform to set a bottle jack on, or even your stock scissor jack. Jack it up and the spring pops right out. Just watch that brake line tension.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Once on jack stands, tires off, shocks and anti swaybar disconnected, I popped the jounst bumper out of the upper bumpstop. Directly below, on the axle, is a perfect little platform to set a bottle jack on, or even your stock scissor jack. Jack it up and the spring pops right out. Just watch that brake line tension.

That was another thought, is there a place to jack between the frame and the axle to push down.

Or even put the tire under the axle and use ratchet straps around it as an anchor to pull down on the axle if it's heavy enouhh

 

[Mac]

I used a 2x4 cannot remember exactly where I put it but was able to force the side down I was removing the spring from without too much trouble.

 

[brianinca]

Why not use spring compressors? That's what they're for.

 

[LostWoods]

Get a floor jack under the diff and loosen the frame-side control arm and track bar bolts. They're metal fused to rubber and don't rotate well so that's what you're fighting. You can just do one on either side to start and that makes it easier to push the axle down. Literally just need a couple turns on each so the bushing sleeve isn't biting the mount anymore, not proper loose. Alternatively, you can do both on one side at a time if you need a little extra clearance with the jack under the axle tube.

Just make sure the truck is at ride-height before you re-torque everything - you want a good zero on those parts to reduce wear. Tighten them to hold position then re-loosen and re-torque if you have to.

Emphasizing floor jack under diff pumpkin though... otherwise you'll be dropping your axle on your rotors and likely replacing a brake line.

 

[93civej1]

Once on jack stands, tires off, shocks and anti swaybar disconnected, I popped the jounst bumper out of the upper bumpstop. Directly below, on the axle, is a perfect little platform to set a bottle jack on, or even your stock scissor jack. Jack it up and the spring pops right out. Just watch that brake line tension.

This!! I was fighting mine after dropped all the way down, once someone mentioned a scissor jack, it was a simple process to get it out.

 

[93civej1]

Why not use spring compressors? That's what they're for.

have you ever used them? Have you ever used them while they are under a vehicle? I am assuming not.

 

[LostWoods]

have you ever used them? Have you ever used them while they are under a vehicle? I am assuming not.

Yeah "suicide" compressors are great for quickly removing springs that are going back in but to add and remove the compressor from a loose spring is adding unnecessary risk here. It's a Jeep, not a coilover.

 

[brianinca]

Used them several times on my Ranger's front coils. Follow directions and be safe.

Yeah "suicide" compressors are great for quickly removing springs that are going back in but to add and remove the compressor from a loose spring is adding unnecessary risk here. It's a Jeep, not a coilover.

 

[93civej1]

Yeah "suicide" compressors are great for quickly removing springs that are going back in but to add and remove the compressor from a loose spring is adding unnecessary risk here. It's a Jeep, not a coilover.

that and i would love to see someone on a garage floor use one on a spring that is already on the vehicle. They are easy to use when they spring is already off the vehicle and putting on a coil that goes around a strut.

 

[LostWoods]

Used them several times on my Ranger's front coils. Follow directions and be safe.

It's still an unnecessary risk for someone asking this question. They're fine if you know what you're doing but when the job can just as easily be done without them, the safer alternative is the better solution.

 

[LostWoods]

that and i would love to see someone on a garage floor use one on a spring that is already on the vehicle. They are easy to use when they spring is already off the vehicle and putting on a coil that goes around a strut.

That's honestly where they shine... I always reached for mine when I needed to swap out a bumpstop or seat or something because you can put them on with the suspension compressed, drop the axle a little to pop the spring out, do the work, and reverse. Turned a 2.0 book job into 20 minutes.

 

[93civej1]

It's still an unnecessary risk for someone asking this question. They're fine if you know what you're doing but when the job can just as easily be done without them, the safer alternative is the better solution.

a scissor jack or bottle jack between the perch and bump stop mount is super quick and easy. No reason to waste the extra time.

 

[hjdca]

Once the truck is on jack stands, tires off, bottom shock bolt out, sway bar off, brake lines moved, etc.

Instead of wrestling with the axle to get space for the shocks, once it's ready to get the springs out could I just jack one side of the axle tube up to make the other side droop even more to remove the spring? Adjust the jack stand a bit on that side if it actually lifts the truck on that side some.

Or is this widow maker territory?

Yes you can. With the truck on jack stands, and 2 jacks, you can tilt the axle any way you want to get the space you need. Note: I just did this yesterday. I could get the extremely long Clayton rear 3.5" shocks in without any struggle. Here is what I did. First loosen all the control arms, I mean really loose. Just barely keep the nut on so it bites. Unscrew emergency brake screws at the diff. Disconnect end links. Pull out taps for the anti-lock sensors. You can lengthen them at the top of the frame. After this my stock brake lines were so stretched that I decided to put in the new Clayton brake lines first. After that, I got 3 more inches or so and the springs went right in. Note: for top isolater, I made circles with masking tape all the way around it and stuck it up there, so, it would stay.

This is how far the axle has to come down to put the new springs in without struggling.

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