Rockslide Engineering Power Steps

[Mbryson]

Back door

Back door by hinge

Flare


Glad to grab other pics if those aren't quite right. Coming from the Rubicon rails, these are fantastico for splash

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[ShadowsPapa]

Back door

Back door by hinge

Flare


Glad to grab other pics if those aren't quite right. Coming from the Rubicon rails, these are fantastico for splash

Wow, thanks. That was fast.
It looks like you are measuring from the rocker panel face itself.
At first I thought - rats, those are 3" narrower at least.
I measured from the pinch weld under the rocker so that may be part of the difference.
I'll try to measure mine again tomorrow to see if I can duplicate how you measured for a more accurate "apples to apples" measurement to be fair.
Looks like my running boards sit just a bit lower so I was able to slide the tape measure up against the flange with the spot welds and that likely accounts for at least 1" of mine appearing wider.
I sure would like these to work for me - but don't want to give up the width - or too much width.

I guess the next question would be related to this -
On the Overland running boards or if you want to call them - side steps - you step right on them, then up and in.
On the RSE - is the only step the part that lowers when you open the door, or is there enough step on top of them to step or stand on? (I stand on mine to wash the bugs off the windshield and clean the roof, for example. I can literally just stand on them and not slip off)

Stock Overland running boards sit low so you can see under the rocker panels to the pinch weld area with all the spot welds below the rocker.

If I do something, especially spending so much $$ and then not like 'em or have any regrets, my wife will let me know about it LOL

Thanks again for the great and quick pics and measurements.

 

[Mbryson]

Here's a picture of the steps deployed.

You can step and stand on the piece that lowers down but I don't see any reason why you couldn't stand on the upper part of the step. You may want to put some traction tape on top of you're going to make that a habit but I believe the slider will take the weight of a person (assuming you're under 250 lbs) while washing without flinching. (I'm 250 lbs so that's why I gave that estimate)

Full disclosure about my step experience:. I LOVE the steps. I've had a bit of a challenge with the passenger side unit. Rock Slide could not have given better customer service in sending me a replacement sensor for the doors in a timely manner.

I've had my steps on for about 6 weeks or so. I'm probably just coming out of the "honeymoon" phase with an expensive purchase.

So far the biggest issue I've had is making sure the supplied magnets are in the appropriate place to activate and deactivate the steps. I've had a little trouble with deactivating the steps on the passenger side. It is winter here in Utah and a VERY wet one so far. Being an electrical device exposed to salted roads, it would be unrealistic to expect optimal performance during the road conditions I have had these in. However, there is a pretty steep entry price and I could understand someone being a bit grumpy about needing to call customer service

My "real" evaluation is that the jury is still out on if they are worth the cost. If I have the steps shut off, I REALLY miss them. For the trail use my truck sees, I NEED these to not stay deployed, ever.

 

[zuki_dan]

My rear bolts are not wanting to budge. I just want to confirm the body bolts are 18mm? There is just enough wiggle to make me think otherwise, but SAE and 17mm don't fit. To @Linnentucker's point, I bought a 24in breaker bar and new socket, it still feels like if I give it everything, I'm going to round off the head of the bolt. This is a 2021 that goes to the grocery store .

If you can get some heat on it i would highly suggest heating the bolt.

I broke my rear driverside because of the amount of loctite the factory put on it. Luckily after it broke I was able to remove the rear body mount and get heat and extractor socket on the stub and remove it.

I order new factory bolts and removed the factory loctite and applied my own blue loctite when reassembling it.

 

[Mbryson]

If you can get some heat on it i would highly suggest heating the bolt.

I broke my rear driverside because of the amount of loctite the factory put on it. Luckily after it broke I was able to remove the rear body mount and get heat and extractor socket on the stub and remove it.

I order new factory bolts and removed the factory loctite and applied my own blue loctite when reassembling it.

FWIW, I only had issue with the two middle body bolts. The front and back bolts wound out pretty good (2021--I don't know the production date but can get it if needed). Center ones on each side were kind of a pain. I just breaker bar moved them back and forth to get some heat in them and kept turning them out. I had to use a file to clean up the threads to fit the bracket over the bolt. Those two bolts took about 30-45 min. Rest of the install was about 3-4 hours (?). The center bolts took MUCH longer than any other one thing. Other issue I had was running the wiring harness up to the battery (kind of a cluttered area on the deezel JT from what I can tell--maybe the gassers are the same? The switch that's part of the harness was a bit of a snag as well.)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Back door

Back door by hinge

Flare


Glad to grab other pics if those aren't quite right. Coming from the Rubicon rails, these are fantastico for splash

I just want to verify, or clarify, which ever fits, that you were measuring at the spots of the body in red in pic below and not lower than those areas? Not where it curves under or at the pinch weld area?

It appears that maybe those RSE steps sit higher than the stock running boards which actually sit rather low as seen here -

 

[Summitdan]

I just want to verify, or clarify, which ever fits, that you were measuring at the spots of the body in red in pic below and not lower than those areas? Not where it curves under or at the pinch weld area?

It appears that maybe those RSE steps sit higher than the stock running boards which actually sit rather low as seen here -

I texted these to you Bill, but maybe you didn’t get them on that number I had. They suck right into the pinch weld, so you really can’t see it. I didn’t have a ruler on these, but they’re narrower than your steps. Either way, they’re plenty stout to stand on. What do it frequently. And even though they’re narrower, I’ve never had a stability issue standing on them. They also do a very good job keeping most crud off the doors, even without mud flaps running wide 37’s.

 

[Mbryson]

I just want to verify, or clarify, which ever fits, that you were measuring at the spots of the body in red in pic below and not lower than those areas? Not where it curves under or at the pinch weld area?

It appears that maybe those RSE steps sit higher than the stock running boards which actually sit rather low as seen here -

I think we are measuring from the same space? I only have the 1"ish vertical space between my door sill and the slider/step. It looks like my tape is about 3" back from the pinch weld on my white JT. It does appear the tops of the Rock Slide steps are at least 2" higher (they are pretty much right at the angled bend in the sheetmetal) than your stock runners


@Summitdan is exactly the same as my setup.

 

[22EcoDs]

If you can get some heat on it i would highly suggest heating the bolt.

I broke my rear driverside because of the amount of loctite the factory put on it. Luckily after it broke I was able to remove the rear body mount and get heat and extractor socket on the stub and remove it.

I order new factory bolts and removed the factory loctite and applied my own blue loctite when reassembling it.

Sorry to revive this thread but I've got the front and center drivers out no problem using the torque wrench and heat method. On the rear I've put 90ftibs into it without moving. How hard was it for you to remove the mount after it broke? Did you need to jack the body up?

 

[Summitdan]

Sorry to revive this thread but I've got the front and center drivers out no problem using the torque wrench and heat method. On the rear I've put 90ftibs into it without moving. How hard was it for you to remove the mount after it broke? Did you need to jack the body up?

I on purpose didn’t look at torque. I used gentle pressure with a long 1/2” breaker bar. If it felt like it was slipping, I reversed and tightened a 1/4 turn and then went back to loosening. It takes some time and patience. If it feels off, stop and back it off before continuing.

 

[Summitdan]

Sorry to revive this thread but I've got the front and center drivers out no problem using the torque wrench and heat method. On the rear I've put 90ftibs into it without moving. How hard was it for you to remove the mount after it broke? Did you need to jack the body up?

And no. I didn’t jack up the body.

 

[22EcoDs]

I on purpose didn’t look at torque. I used gentle pressure with a long 1/2” breaker bar. If it felt like it was slipping, I reversed and tightened a 1/4 turn and then went back to loosening. It takes some time and patience. If it feels off, stop and back it off before continuing.

Awesome thanks for the suggestion. I'm gonna sleep on it and try again tomorrow.

 

[Summitdan]

Awesome thanks for the suggestion. I'm gonna sleep on it and try again tomorrow.

It was tiring and frustrating, but go slowly and try to be patient. Don’t get me wrong. I’m not patient, but I’ll give the advice anyway. . If it helps, it’s the worst part of the project. Everything else is easy. I will say that I purposefully mounted them, then did the electrical the following day. If I would have done all at the same time, I’d likely have thrown something.

 

[22EcoDs]

It was tiring and frustrating, but go slowly and try to be patient. Don’t get me wrong. I’m not patient, but I’ll give the advice anyway. . If it helps, it’s the worst part of the project. Everything else is easy. I will say that I purposelessly mounted them, then did the electrical the following day. If I would have done all at the same time, I’d likely have thrown something.

Luckily I don't have to worry about any electronics. I'm installing rock hard rhx. I only have a torque wrench as a breaker bar (I know shame on me), next step is the impact. Heat worked well on the front and mid but no dice on this one. Good to know replacing the mount seams easy enough.

 

[Summitdan]

Luckily I don't have to worry about any electronics. I'm installing rock hard rhx. I only have a torque wrench as a breaker bar (I know shame on me), next step is the impact. Heat worked well on the front and mid but no dice on this one. Good to know replacing the mount seams easy enough.

Me too. I use my large torque wrench gently as a breaker bar sometimes. I highly recommended against an impact wrench. Many have broken those body bolts doing that. This is one of those manual tool jobs.

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