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Rough idle when stopped

Brraaapp

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Hi guys, I have been having a bit of a frustrating problem. I have a 2020 gladiator rubicon 3.6 automatic, since I bought the vehicle (new from dealer) at 1200 miles or so I have been noticing a ridiculous vibration when stopped, this seems to be an intermittent issue but 9 times out of 10 I notice it. The vibration only seems to occur when the vehicle is on (obviously) whether it’s in park or drive and stopped at a light I get a pulsing vibration through the steering wheel there is no particular synchrony to the vibration and is always different. My RPM’s do not bounce. It seems to be worse when the AC is on than it is when it’s off. Vibration also occurs when I come to a stop at a light and my auto start stop shuts the vehicle off. As soon as I raise my foot off the break the vehicle starts back up and I get a consistent very rough vibration.
I am not certain if it’s related... however I have had 4.... 4 (P0300) errors on the truck the check engine does not light up however the “A!” Lights up. For those of you that do not know what that error is it’s a multiple cylinder misfire. This seems to be where the frustration comes in I have dropped off the two dealerships who have had the truck for over two weeks each. They seem to not be able to replicate the vibration (typical) they also stated there were no trouble codes saved in the history (no I did not clear them) two different dealers have had my Jeep for over a month now
Does anyone have ANY idea what this could be? Any suggestions? Anything helps and is much appreciated.

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Brraaapp

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Nobody? Lol :(
 

Sunbeam63

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Nobody? Lol :(
My 2021 Base Sport truck threw the P0300 code, along with P000C and P0019 code, saying it was misfiring and had camshaft sensor issues. It had a very rough idle, to the point that I did not want to drive it. Happened at ~2600 miles. It's still in the shop, but right now they think its the intake cam shaft. However, unlike your case, it was not intermittent. I don't know if your issue is the same as mine, but I would guess that the code is definitely related to the symptoms, and the shop should be investigating that code.
 
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Brraaapp

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My 2021 Base Sport truck threw the P0300 code, along with P000C and P0019 code, saying it was misfiring and had camshaft sensor issues. It had a very rough idle, to the point that I did not want to drive it. Happened at ~2600 miles. It's still in the shop, but right now they think its the intake cam shaft. However, unlike your case, it was not intermittent. I don't know if your issue is the same as mine, but I would guess that the code is definitely related to the symptoms, and the shop should be investigating that code.
Thank you for the response! I’m sorry that’s happening to you new jeep too, there aren’t many post with rough idol that seem to pertain to my issue, which worries me. The dealer did some kind of flash/update that apparently had something to do with the P0300.... I hope this gets resolved otherwise I may be selling this thing :(
 

Bowerss2

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I just had a long list of codes at 25K, bad bad idle. The truck is in the dealer now getting new cams and rockers installed....
 

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Brraaapp

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I just had a long list of codes at 25K, bad bad idle. The truck is in the dealer now getting new cams and rockers installed....
Omg how did they determine that?? My dealer had mine for a week and a half, didn’t update me and said “sorry if a code isn’t on the truck we can’t do anything about it”
 

am1978

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If you search on P0300, you will find eighteen--18--pages worth of posts. You're not the first guy with this problem.

Keep your Jeep. Get it fixed by a competent dealer (plenty of threads on that issue, too) and keep on truckin.
 

Hootbro

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I am not certain if it’s related... however I have had 4.... 4 (P0300) errors on the truck the check engine does not light up however the “A!” Lights up. For those of you that do not know what that error is it’s a multiple cylinder misfire.
The "A!" symbol means the auto start/stop is disable because of a pending code or other disabling condition like the ESS battery low and not necessarily a misfire code. Your P0300 is a pending code and is what is tripping the A! to post. If it was a hard posting code, it would be setting the engine check light.

That is why your dealership is having problems because until it post a hard code and stores the history data, they have very little to go by.

I am having a similar but not exact problem in that I get occasional get the A! light stating the ESS is disabled but will only have a pending P0300 code but never posting. I have used JSCAN and checked the misfire count data and it post mainly to cylinder #4 having double digit misfires as the primary culprit. This only happens on a cold start and never on a hot start or idle .

I have changed spark plugs, swapped fuel injector and coils to different positions and problem for me remains with #4 cylinder misfire only on cold start for like 15 seconds and then is fine. It is also very random and I can go 1-2 weeks before having an event.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Get a product (software) such as AlfaOBD (or JSCAN) a bluetooth OBD adapter and log it while it's running rough. The software will catch misfire codes that do not request the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light)
I did that with my wife's Jeep which bucked like a horse with a burr under the saddle but never set the MIL. I caught it in the act, saved and printed the log and luckily I did - once it got to the dealership it ran smooth as silk.

They saw my multi-page log, saw it was ignition misfire.


2021/01/04 11:56:32.011: Faults found: P0303
2021/01/04 11:56:35.970: Faults found: P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 1: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Open Loop - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop - Bank 2: No
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 2: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Engine load: 30.20 %
Freeze Frame Engine Coolant Temp: 66.00 Deg.C
Intake Air Temperature: 215.00 Deg.C
Ambient Air Temperature: 12.00 Deg.C
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 12.49 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: -3.13 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: 9.37 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -7.04 %
MAP Voltage: 1.96 V
MAP: 46 kPa
Atmospheric pressure: 97 kPa
Engine RPM: 875.00 rpm
Vehicle speed: 0 MPH
Throttle Position Sensor 1 Percent: 12.94 %
Battery voltage: 14.58 V
Fuel level: 95.69 %
Purge Solenoid Current: 0.00 mA
Purge Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Idle Air Control (IAC) Current: 0.00 mA
Idle Air Control (IAC) Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
EGR Flow: 0.00 g/s
Current Adaptive Cell ID: 24
Spark advance: -2.00 Deg
AC Clutch: Disengaged
EGR Gassed Flowing: No
Power Steering High Pressure: No
AC Switch: Off
 

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Bowerss2

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Omg how did they determine that?? My dealer had mine for a week and a half, didn’t update me and said “sorry if a code isn’t on the truck we can’t do anything about it”
My jeep dealer is pretty good, my codes kept coming up and resetting so I just logged them when they showed up. They said their was a RRT (RRT #20053) for flashing the ECU, and if that didn't fix the issue, checked the valves and determined there was early wear on the cams so they are going ahead and replacing them, along with the rockers. I also had a bad o2 sensor, which made diagnosing the problems more hard.

FYI here were the codes i was throwing.

P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit low volt bank 1 sensor 2
P2096 Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1
P0300 Multi Missfires
P0171 Bank 1 system lean.
 
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Brraaapp

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The "A!" symbol means the auto start/stop is disable because of a pending code or other disabling condition like the ESS battery low and not necessarily a misfire code. Your P0300 is a pending code and is what is tripping the A! to post. If it was a hard posting code, it would be setting the engine check light.

That is why your dealership is having problems because until it post a hard code and stores the history data, they have very little to go by.

I am having a similar but not exact problem in that I get occasional get the A! light stating the ESS is disabled but will only have a pending P0300 code but never posting. I have used JSCAN and checked the misfire count data and it post mainly to cylinder #4 having double digit misfires as the primary culprit. This only happens on a cold start and never on a hot start or idle .

I have changed spark plugs, swapped fuel injector and coils to different positions and problem for me remains with #4 cylinder misfire only on cold start for like 15 seconds and then is fine. It is also very random and I can go 1-2 weeks before having an event.
This seems to be fairly similar to what I’m experiencing. Except I don’t know what cylinder mine is misfiring, the dealer said it would log what cylinder however since it does not store they can’t see anything. Incredibly frustrating. I just took it back to a different dealer again. They will have her till the 11th of October, did you find a solution to what is causing your misfire on cylinder 4?
 

Hootbro

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This seems to be fairly similar to what I’m experiencing. Except I don’t know what cylinder mine is misfiring, the dealer said it would log what cylinder however since it does not store they can’t see anything. Incredibly frustrating. I just took it back to a different dealer again. They will have her till the 11th of October, did you find a solution to what is causing your misfire on cylinder 4?
I did a intake cleaning with Sea-Foam and it alleviated the issue for about 4 days and started to creep back up. Cleaned the Intake Air Temperature sensor and same thing, alleviated the issue for about 4 days and started to creep back up.

Finally made a dealer appointment and took it in and laid my cards out and was actually able to talk to one of their senior techs in person that actually took everything I said seriously into consideration and had a few ideas to take in into their shop and check it out. After about an hour, the senior tech came back and showed me a partially rolled o-ring on one of the PCV quick disconnect ends and told me he had seen it before. Dealership was able to get a overnight replacement PCV line in and replaced it. So for about the last week, I have been monitoring every cold start and the double digit misfires on #4 cylinder have gone away and everything appears to be operating normally. I am still hesitant to call it a permanent fix but it is promising.

I will add my 2 cents for what it is worth and after having dealt with my particular issue and researching other peoples misfire issues, there is many different things that can cause a misfire and very few have the absolute exact same root cause. In addition, how the left engine bank (#2, #4, #6 cylinders) manages it's intake, fuel and ignition strategy is not 100% a mirror of the right bank (#1, #3, #5 cylinders).
 

Bowerss2

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I did a intake cleaning with Sea-Foam and it alleviated the issue for about 4 days and started to creep back up. Cleaned the Intake Air Temperature sensor and same thing, alleviated the issue for about 4 days and started to creep back up.

Finally made a dealer appointment and took it in and laid my cards out and was actually able to talk to one of their senior techs in person that actually took everything I said seriously into consideration and had a few ideas to take in into their shop and check it out. After about an hour, the senior tech came back and showed me a partially rolled o-ring on one of the PCV quick disconnect ends and told me he had seen it before. Dealership was able to get a overnight replacement PCV line in and replaced it. So for about the last week, I have been monitoring every cold start and the double digit misfires on #4 cylinder have gone away and everything appears to be operating normally. I am still hesitant to call it a permanent fix but it is promising.

I will add my 2 cents for what it is worth and after having dealt with my particular issue and researching other peoples misfire issues, there is many different things that can cause a misfire and very few have the absolute exact same root cause. In addition, how the left engine bank (#2, #4, #6 cylinders) manages it's intake, fuel and ignition strategy is not 100% a mirror of the right bank (#1, #3, #5 cylinders).
If you had a leak in the PCV system check out the No. 2 (downstream) o2 sensor on the passenger side. If the oil leaks out of the pcv system it can drop on that o2 sensor, and believe it or not it will soak into where the wire connects to the actual sensor and kill it. That happened to mine. Now that the cam has been replaced, software update, and new o2 sensor everything is fine.
 
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Brraaapp

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I did a intake cleaning with Sea-Foam and it alleviated the issue for about 4 days and started to creep back up. Cleaned the Intake Air Temperature sensor and same thing, alleviated the issue for about 4 days and started to creep back up.

Finally made a dealer appointment and took it in and laid my cards out and was actually able to talk to one of their senior techs in person that actually took everything I said seriously into consideration and had a few ideas to take in into their shop and check it out. After about an hour, the senior tech came back and showed me a partially rolled o-ring on one of the PCV quick disconnect ends and told me he had seen it before. Dealership was able to get a overnight replacement PCV line in and replaced it. So for about the last week, I have been monitoring every cold start and the double digit misfires on #4 cylinder have gone away and everything appears to be operating normally. I am still hesitant to call it a permanent fix but it is promising.

I will add my 2 cents for what it is worth and after having dealt with my particular issue and researching other peoples misfire issues, there is many different things that can cause a misfire and very few have the absolute exact same root cause. In addition, how the left engine bank (#2, #4, #6 cylinders) manages it's intake, fuel and ignition strategy is not 100% a mirror of the right bank (#1, #3, #5 cylinders).
I’m glad to hear someone listened to yo, that has been my primary problem with these dealerships
(Simi Valley, Thousand Oaks Ventura) they won’t listen to me this is the 4th time it has been in, finally 9 days ago I drove with a tech... he said he could feel the vibration through the floor at idol... he said it felt normal but would need to have another guy look at it that takes care of that sort of thing..... anyway that same technician did fix another issue I was having with my squeaky breaks so I can’t complain about him to much.... I go so in tomorrow morning at 10 so I can replicate the vibration at idle for one of the technicians that will be looking at it...... if he f****ng says it’s normal i’m going to kindly ask him to replicated in a new vehicle for me considering mine has been having this problem for over 7 months....
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