Sponsored

Running 37s on D44s - Besides gearing, anything else to think about?

bgoman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Threads
10
Messages
50
Reaction score
44
Location
San Diego, CA
Vehicle(s)
2021 JT Sport
Build Thread
Link
I have a Sport S (Non- Max Tow) and plan to regear to 4.88s when I put the tires on (BFG KO2s - smaller end of 37s).

Other than gearing, is there anything else I should think about upgrading? Will be replacing the drive shaft eventually to correct for the suspension but am a little concerned about the general longevity of the regular Dana 44s. Anyone have any experience?

Not doing any towing, etc.
Sponsored

 

Renegade

Well-Known Member
First Name
Zac
Joined
Sep 11, 2017
Threads
38
Messages
3,562
Reaction score
4,693
Location
Signal Mountain, TN
Vehicle(s)
2020 JT
Build Thread
Link
Alloy axle shafts, trusses, and HD ball joints. You should be good after that with our 6-cyl engines.
 

Rummie

Well-Known Member
First Name
Troy
Joined
May 25, 2019
Threads
80
Messages
660
Reaction score
1,364
Location
Siesta Key, Florida
Website
www.siestakeyrum.com
Vehicle(s)
20 JT, 15 JKU, 22 BMW 4, Challenger R/T
Build Thread
Link
Occupation
Rum
Vehicle Showcase
3
I have a Sport S (Non- Max Tow) and plan to regear to 4.88s when I put the tires on (BFG KO2s - smaller end of 37s).

Other than gearing, is there anything else I should think about upgrading? Will be replacing the drive shaft eventually to correct for the suspension but am a little concerned about the general longevity of the regular Dana 44s. Anyone have any experience?

Not doing any towing, etc.
Depends on what you do with it. I'm putting in chromoly rear shafts, RCVs in the front, both trussed, and c-gussets. The axle trusses and gussets aren't very expensive. They need to be welded by someone who knows what they are doing though. Might want to get that done when you have the gears put in.
 
OP
OP
bgoman

bgoman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Threads
10
Messages
50
Reaction score
44
Location
San Diego, CA
Vehicle(s)
2021 JT Sport
Build Thread
Link
Alloy axle shafts, trusses, and HD ball joints. You should be good after that with our 6-cyl engines.
Depends on what you do with it. I'm putting in chromoly rear shafts, RCVs in the front, both trussed, and c-gussets. The axle trusses and gussets aren't very expensive. They need to be welded by someone who knows what they are doing though. Might want to get that done when you have the gears put in.
Thanks! I've looked into some of that. Hoping I can get by for a while without some of it. The suspension, tires and regear will be setting me back enough already.

I don't intend to do any rock crawling or towing. It's my daily driver, but I'd like to be able to hit the CA fire roads and do some camping on weekends (no more than light-moderate trails). So I was planning on those upgrades over time. But I also have no experience running such larger tires and I know the Rubicon's, Max Tow, etc. have beefier axles.

Edit: In retrospect I should have gone with a Rubicon. Couldn't pull the trigger after seeing the price tag, but here I am, spending about as much lol.
 

JerseyMike

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
138
Reaction score
161
Location
NJ
Vehicle(s)
2021 Jeep Gladiator Sport S
Occupation
physician
my understanding on the gladiator is that the rubicon axles aren't any different than sport (other than ratio, lockers and width).

I actually think that if not doing heavy off roading you would be fine with those super light BFG 37/12.5x17 (They weigh almost the same as heavy 33's that are stock on mojave and rubicon)

just would want 4.88 or at least 4.56 gears.


The AEV JT370 builds do just 4.56 and diff covers but no other strengthening so I thin you will be fine (I plan on the same eventually).

yes it is more wear and tear but these are so built up from factory that they should do ok (the new dana 44s in the gladiator are stronger than wrangler JL and much stronger than JK D44s)
 

Sponsored

j.o.y.ride

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 26, 2020
Threads
96
Messages
2,940
Reaction score
3,884
Location
Foster City
Vehicle(s)
20 Gladiator Overland
Thanks! I've looked into some of that. Hoping I can get by for a while without some of it. The suspension, tires and regear will be setting me back enough already.

I don't intend to do any rock crawling or towing. It's my daily driver, but I'd like to be able to hit the CA fire roads and do some camping on weekends (no more than light-moderate trails). So I was planning on those upgrades over time. But I also have no experience running such larger tires and I know the Rubicon's, Max Tow, etc. have beefier axles.

Edit: In retrospect I should have gone with a Rubicon. Couldn't pull the trigger after seeing the price tag, but here I am, spending about as much lol.
Rubcion and Max Tow do not have stronger axles, they have slightly wider axles. If anything that makes them marginally more prone to failure and more in need of a truss.

And you can definitely build a Jeep better than a stock Rubicon, you will be fine. Rubicon is a lot more convenient and more than most need as is, but if you build, you can def do better.
 

JerseyMike

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
138
Reaction score
161
Location
NJ
Vehicle(s)
2021 Jeep Gladiator Sport S
Occupation
physician
Rubcion and Max Tow do not have stronger axles, they have slightly wider axles. If anything that makes them marginally more prone to failure and more in need of a truss.

And you can definitely build a Jeep better than a stock Rubicon, you will be fine. Rubicon is a lot more convenient and more than most need as is, but if you build, you can def do better.

I was thinking the same, likely stronger in base sport with open diffs v. wide axles with limited slip or lockers......grant it all of these gladiator D44's are built heavy duty stock
 

MrFahrenheit

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Jan 6, 2020
Threads
10
Messages
478
Reaction score
793
Location
Arizona
Vehicle(s)
2020 FC Red Gladiator Rubicon
Build Thread
Link
There are a ton of people running 37's with no mods to their axles. Especially given what you said your use is I probably wouldn't do anything else. All the suggestions are good suggestions, but probably overkill for what you want to do with it.
 

Deleted member 28696

I have a JTR and I believe they are Dana 44's. I'm running 37" tires x 20x9 wheels, currently on stock 4.10 gears no lift. The dealer said it had an extra 1.5" lift when I purchased it but not sure if it's just stock or not. With normal driving nothing rubs and all works as normal. I don't feel that the 4.10 gears are quite enough especially when trying to get going in a hurry it wants to stay revved up. I did reprogram with a Tazer JL mini for 37" tires (actual size 36) but I'm having it regeared next month to 5.13 and a 3" lift added with additional stabilization etc. I was going to have the 2" stock Mopar lift done but the Jeep people were pulling them out due to death wobble and putting this kit in with the Yeti Steersmarts Traction bar anyway it's alot heavier duty than the stock mopar lift and it's 3 - 3.5" vs 2". I do believe that 37" is as big as you'd want to go without replacing the axels and going with Dana 60's. This was why I went with 37" vs 40's since it becomes unaffordable when you start replacing axels etc.
Sponsored

 
 



Top