Rust?

[Pilsner]

I have only had this on a couple weeks and the screws on the anchors are rusting. Is that expected? @TeraFlex

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[Hootbro]

I get the same thing on my Teraflex rail kit anchors. Fasteners are black oxide coated so it is not a matter of if but when.

I use a product call "Surface Shield" from the makers of PB Blaster. Can be found at Home Depot and even Harbor Freight carries it. Comes in a aerosol can and spray a bit of it on small acid brush and dab the fastener surfaces. I treat it about once every 6 months or so and it seems to mitigate it from getting any worse.

You also want to treat the rail fasteners heads that mount to the bed themselves as they eventually will show rust over time.

I doubt this is a warrantable issue with Teraflex. Even if it is, they will send the same style faster out as replacement.

 

[Pilsner]

Appreciate the response. I will grab some of that. I think I will probably replace all the hardware with stainless or yellow zinc. Can't believe they ship fasteners that are oxide instead of zinc, stainless, or even phosphate.

 

[Hootbro]

For reference, here is a pic of one of my anchors after 2 years and using the Surface Shield product I mentioned. Holding up fine with it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Even the phosphate will rust - it's not a plating per se. Zinc is sacrificial so will protect until it's gone, even if scratched unlike almost any other "coating".

I strip all bolts I intend for use in weather or that may be exposed to elements and plate them in zinc in the color I need - clear/blue, black yellow - don't have real call for green so don't do that.
i even stripped my front bumper bolts and did them in black zinc.
You generally don't see bolts like pictured done in anything but oxide - even in hardware stores.

If you want the bolts done in black zinc, send them as I've got more plating to do shortly.

 

[chorky]

Even the phosphate will rust - it's not a plating per se. Zinc is sacrificial so will protect until it's gone, even if scratched unlike almost any other "coating".

I strip all bolts I intend for use in weather or that may be exposed to elements and plate them in zinc in the color I need - clear/blue, black yellow - don't have real call for green so don't do that.
i even stripped my front bumper bolts and did them in black zinc.
You generally don't see bolts like pictured done in anything but oxide - even in hardware stores.

If you want the bolts done in black zinc, send them as I've got more plating to do shortly.

I didnt know this was possible. How do you coat them in zinc? Is it a simple or complex process?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I didnt know this was possible. How do you coat them in zinc? Is it a simple or complex process?

Electroplating.
It cost a fair amount of money and time to get set up for the types of parts and the quantities i do. They expect the parts to look great and hold up for a long time.
I do it for restorations and my own use when not busy. Most of the stuff below was done for customers' show cars.
If those bolts the OP posted were mine - I know exactly what I'd do.

The prep process takes a lot of time, depending on the part and how bad it is.
All original finish must be removed. For zinc that means a hydrochloric acid bath just until the zinc is removed. That's messy and tends to rust anything in the vicinity so you need to be careful.
The cleaner I use is a pH 11 before it's reduced with distilled water. Then it's heated to 170 degrees and the parts soaked before plating. They are then removed from the cleaner and rinsed, then hung in a tank and plated, then rinsed then the desired color passivate applied.
Sometimes a mild sulphuric acid bath is used after the zinc plating before the passivate ad as a "bright dip".

Doing a couple bolts or screws for someone is no big deal since I do batches now and then anyway for bigger projects. One guy sends me zip lock bags of parts every so often .

Black zinc -

I redid my Jeep's front bumper bolts -

1970 Javelin hood latch striker in black zinc -

1971 AMX windshield washer motor I did in yellow zinc (for a rare show car)

Clear zinc -

Stuff starts like this -

1970 AMX horn relay shell in yellow zinc -

Spare tire wing nut in yellow -

This was a gray and rust color, the original finish was pretty much gone -

Depending on the part, the clear can be done to a chrome-like finish except chrome is white and zinc is a blue metal.

I just have a cheap plating rectifier - not a high amperage or high voltage required for large parts in big tanks - but it was over $600.

 

[Lunentucker]

You generally don't see bolts like pictured done in anything but oxide - even in hardware stores.

True in the automotive and common hardware settings, but stainless steel is out there and reasonably available. Common in the firearms industry.

Check McMaster Carr, Grainger, Fastenal.

Example Search

 

[ShadowsPapa]

True in the automotive and common hardware settings, but stainless steel is out there and reasonably available. Common in the firearms industry.

Check McMaster Carr, Grainger, Fastenal.

Example Search

Yeah, and I've used a lot of stainless, but for some things, I want the color to be not silver or can't use stainless due to reactions.
You can get a lot of fasteners here locally in stainless. But i was meaning you can't get bolts in finishes other than oxide - not that you can't get stainless fasteners. Stainless is a material rather than a finish and if you want black or yellow, it won't be stainless.

Stainless -

I have a fair assortment of metric stainless fasteners. You can get a lot of stainless hardware even on Amazon - like the clip nuts in my bumper.

Stainless hold the terminal strip to the acrylic, and the acrylic mount to the truck -

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