So, how much do you really scrape the belly while off road? Lifted.

[Jems007]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a JT Rubicon. This will be my 4th Jeep, coming from a JLU Rubicon with 35s and 2" Mopar Lift.
My current JLU does everything I need and then some--for the trails I run. I visit Moab about 5x per year and usually do no more than a trail rated as a "6" (i.e. Top of the World, Hells Revenge), but spend most of my time camping and going to remote spots (elephant hill) and plan to do some colorado trails (Black bear pass, etc) soon.

The only reason I am wanting the JT is I want to get a bigger trailer next year--and the JLU won't cut it. I know I'll miss the "fun" of the JLU--i've had the top off since early springs.

So, my question, are ya'll really scraping a ton with the breakover? I plan on doing a 2-3" lift with 35's--or more likely 37s.

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[SD Gladiator]

I haven't done any serious rock crawling but the times I thought I would scrape I didn't. Also, there are times where the longer wheel base is an advantage. Sometimes my front tires are already on to the next rock before my rear tires have hit the lowest spot. The wrangler ahead of me had bottomed out on that obstacle and I didn't. I am running 35's with a 2 inch Mopar lift.

 

[ndn384]

I’ve been on quite a few trails rated out in Southern California with my rubicon when I just had the 1.5” leveling kit and 35s and it did great. Now I have the Mopar 2” lift and a 1” leveling spacer in the front. We went up to Sedona and hit a few trails over there without any difficulties. I have definitely rubbed the belly a few times, but nothing to get me stuck or do any major damage. The thing that I hit the most is the trailer hitch.

 

[Jems007]

Has anyone calculated what amount of lift/tire combo you'd need to match a JLU Rubi on 35s?

 

[PyrPatriot]

Mild scraping, but on 35s without a lift

 

[capercrew02]

I was in Moab last fall, with a bone stock rubicon I did fins and things, hells revenge, elephant hill, and I’ve done a few other Jeep badge of honor trails. All together I only hit the belly from break over issues in optional routes, the bigger issue is the trailer hitch, that I had to continuously take diagonal lines for on hells revenge, and still was dragging in the v out sections, but with the beefy hitch and corner rock rails it really wasn’t an issue. A lift and tires sure would help, but it sounds like your desires are more in the exploration side of the spectrum, not so much on heavy crawling, in which case I think you’ll really enjoy the JT. I also find the JT to be far more comfortable on the highway and normal Offroad trails due to the extra wheelbase, so it has its perks too over a JLU.

 

[Renegade]

I scrape, bang, and slam it A LOT! The rear fame-side control arm mounts are very susceptible to damage and hang-ups, so I added skids.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

What brand are those control arm skids

 

[Renegade]

What brand are those control arm skids

Rusty's. It the best $90 I've spent on this thing, after nearly flattening one side of one of the rear mounts.

 

[bastage]

First time out.. I am leveled (1.5" up front & stock rear) on 35's & I scraped a TON.. Got home & ordered a full belly skid. Rear bumper got a bit fucked as well. So glad I had sliders on to prevent any real damage.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Rusty's. It the best $90 I've spent on this thing, after nearly flattening one side of one of the rear mounts.

I'll have to get some of those later on. I picked up an entire suspension from another Max Tow, including control arms, for $50. Once the arms get too damaged (if at all, none yet that I can see), I'll swap out and add skids. I'm very conscious of Gladys's weight

will post pics of scrapes later

 

[Bonanza]

OP- I'm coming from the same scenario. I had a 2.5" lift on my JKUR, and traded it in with 3.5" I went straight to 3.5" and 37s on my gladiator. On my JK, I beat the gas tank skid to scrap, beat the back lower control arm mounts, destroyed my sliders, dented my oil pan (added skid after), cracked exhaust manifold flange (added skid after), and peeled back the diff cover almost immediately.

I expect similar if not worse carnage with the JT. I bought heavier duty sliders (rockhard) this go around, and will be adding underarmor asap. The lift and tires kind drained my accounts and wife's goodwill, so I'm waiting a bit. Great thread!

 

[LostWoods]

Has anyone calculated what amount of lift/tire combo you'd need to match a JLU Rubi on 35s?

You'll never overcome that departure deficiency without a massive amount of work but running the angles, you just need to step up to 37's to overcome the deficiency in breakover. It's only a 2 degree difference between the two and the JTR has the same spec as the JLU Sport.

 

[Jems007]

You'll never overcome that departure deficiency without a massive amount of work but running the angles, you just need to step up to 37's to overcome the deficiency in breakover. It's only a 2 degree difference between the two and the JTR has the same spec as the JLU Sport.

Thanks! Quick question maybe you can clarify. Stepping to 37s will meet the break over angle of a JL? Stock for stock ? Or do I need a 2” lift and 37s to meet a stock rubicon ?

 

[LostWoods]

Thanks! Quick question maybe you can clarify. Stepping to 37s will meet the break over angle of a JL? Stock for stock ? Or do I need a 2” lift and 37s to meet a stock rubicon ?

It's actually a 38" re-running all the numbers but the problem is that there's no way to be accurate on this. Tires are rarely a true size (e.g. BFG 35" is actually 34.5" and installed it's closer to an effective 33") and I have no idea if the FCA specs are engineering specs or actual measured specs at some baseline. It completely throws off the geometry so there's a lot of assumption in that math.

Basically the math is that if the JLUR gets 1.0" of height added at the center of the wheelbase, the JTR needs 2.5". For breakover, how you get it is irrelevant.

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