Sport S Build Advice (Especially Wheel/Tire Offset and Camper/Exedition Rack)

[sdhkenyon]

Starting from a Sport S (without Max Tow - starting to wonder if that was big mistake...) and inspired by these two mockups. I'm planning to begin with Gator Overland's ultimate 2 inch lift ():

JT Mopar 2" Suspension Lift Kit: PN# 77072468AB JT GLADIATOR https://amzn.to/2CgGDQd

Fox/Mopar Steering Stabilizer: PN# 77072360 https://amzn.to/30z72Bf https://amzn.to/3hpfxFz

Daystar 3/4" Level (Front/Rear) Spring Spacer: PN# DAYKJ09191BK https://www.daystarweb.com/product/...cers-jeep-gladiator-jt-2020-daystar-kj09191bk

Steer Smarts Adjustable Pro Series Front Track Bar: PN# 75049001

Steer Smarts Adjustable Drag Link w/ Griffin Attenuator: PN# 78089002 https://amzn.to/2AFXf3f

Rancho Front Control Arm Geometry Relocation Brackets: PN# RS62118B https://amzn.to/2DmdKTc

Rock Krawler Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket: PN# RK07360K

For the camper I am deciding between RSI Smartcap, Alucab, and RLD but looking for advice on putting a rack on top of them. Would also love to hear any advice on wheels/tires/fenders:

Wheels/Tires/Fenders I'd like to go at least 35, ideally 37 but want them snug under the fenders so will probably need a positive offset. Anybody with a good setup on a standard sport s w/o max tow, 2 inch lift, and positive offset to keep them snug but no rub? I likely won't do full on rock crawling, but some washed out dirt roads getting kayaks into and out of a river are where I am hoping to find myself come summer. If the answer is to go for a wider fender rather than positive offset - any recs there? I was looking through some of the tubular fenders but most seem to be same width or smaller than stock fenders.

For the expedition rack, I'd like to be able to fit a full piece of plywood but also still get the freedom panels off so ideally just over 4x8ft footprint (bonus points if I can also avoid puncturing the hardtop when I install) and will be strapping some canoes/kayaks/SUPs to the top as well. Wondering if I need to look at two separate racks - one on the camper and one on the cab to avoid problems with the bed and cab moving separately? Anybody with a good setup there that they would recommend?

Appreciate the advice - even if its just mistakes that can share before I make them too!

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[sdhkenyon]

Wrapped up first part of the build - pro comp 7069 wheels, 315 ko2s, mopar 2” lift with daystar leveling kit in the front. I added steer smart drag link and adjustable track bar in the front, Rancho geometry brackets, and rubicon express adjustable track bar in the back (all done with some serious help from friends and family - learned a ton but imminently doable with a good set of tools).
Next steps are to dremel off the bumper end pieces to get rid of rubbing, figure out what I’m gonna get to recalibrate the computer for the odometer/speedometer etc…(recommendations welcome), get some adjustable rear control arms to address the pinion angle (pretty surprised the mopar kit just leaves you at 4 degrees in the rear?!?), and adjust the front headlight angle, and upgrade the sway bar end links. I’ve got a deposit down on an RSI Smartcap which is supposed to show up in July (fingers crossed) - once it arrives I’m planning to rent a camp trailer for a weekend trip to North Carolina and see whether it feels like the investment to regear to 4.56 is warranted… but feels pretty good to get it sitting right and looking right!

 

[Jcsii]

You might want to also consider some sway bar disconnects and air compressor.
When trail riding washboarded and rutted roads, airing down and disconnecting the sway bar are the first things I do. I use that more than the lockers on mine.

 

[sdhkenyon]

You might want to also consider some sway bar disconnects and air compressor.
When trail riding washboarded and rutted roads, airing down and disconnecting the sway bar are the first things I do. I use that more than the lockers on mine.

Thanks for the advice! - I've got the rubicon express sway bar disconnect kit ready to install once I get a free afternoon. Any advice on best air compressor to go with?

 

[chithead]

That green Rubicon concept drawing looks amazing! Is that the direction you're going with the lift and bedcap?

 

[sdhkenyon]

That green Rubicon concept drawing looks amazing! Is that the direction you're going with the lift and bedcap?

Yep! There's also a lot I like in the Defender mockup or the Africa concept Inside Design: 2015 Jeep® Wrangler Africa Concept: - [Banned Site] with the roof rack, limb risers, lights etc... that I'll be thinking about adding as I start to use it more and if it seems like it will be useful...

 

[RodRecket]

2020 Sport S 6MT (no max tow available w/ manual trans)

SUSPENSION
- 2" MOPAR
- Teraflex adj front TB, EVO adj rear TB
- Teraflex 1" leveling spacer (counter my bumper/winch combo)
- AEV geo correction brackets
- Matched the shocks w/ a Fox steering stabilizer
- JKS quick discos (swaybar)

A few notes about my experience upgrading the suspension. I first tried the Rancho geo correction brackets and used the longer LCAs that came with the MOPAR kit. There was too much caster with that combo, so I recommend sticking with your stock LCAs if you do geo correction brackets. Also, I swapped my Rancho geo correction brackets for AEVs. I don't think there is a giant difference in their performance but the AEVs do look much better built, like something that would come from the factory. Yes, they are more expensive but if you are keeping this truck for a while I'd say buy once cry once, I recommend the AEV geo correction brackets. The sway discos help immensely offroad. There are many brands at varying price points. My JKS work fine but they can be a pain if you are not on level ground and you will grease up your hands.

WHEELS/TIRES
- AEV Salta XR 17x8.5 +25mm offset
- Toyo ATIII 35/11.5R17

The wheel fitment is perfect in my opinion. The tire sits right in line with the fender, does not poke out, and does not rub. I went with Toyo ATIII because they are C rated (didn't want a stiff ride), came in 11.5 (didn't want a wide tire daily driving), and 3peak winter certified (live in MN). They are louder than my previous KO2s but have been an excellent tire so far. The wheel/tire set up weighs in around 97lbs, only 3lbs per wheel/tire heavier than my old combo. I ran a quadratec hardrock wheel with +10mm offset and 285/70R17 KO2s prior to lifting the truck. It stuck out about 1"-1.5" past the fenders.

BEDRACK
- KBVoodoo crossbars
- BuiltRight utility rail

I went with this combo to mimic the MOPAR trail rail system, be used with a tonneau, and easily removable for access to the bed. Tent on top, gear in the bed.

MISC.
- AEV procal

For tire calibration and regearing. Simple, cheap, wont mess with the dealer.

FUTURE NEEDS
- regear 4.56
- LCA skids, diff skid

I am regearing to 4.56 after my last trip. On road and off it's clear the 6MT needs some taller gears to be efficient.

I know you have started your build, sorry for seeing this a little late. Hopefully it is still helpful and may help someone else in the future.

 

[Jcsii]

I am cheap, since I had this Ryobi one battery system for its fans and ratchet bought the compressor. It does ok getting me back to 30+ psi, then air up at a gas station

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...RjYoOcWIpR2dDpuZncEaAtljEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[sdhkenyon]

2020 Sport S 6MT (no max tow available w/ manual trans)

SUSPENSION
- 2" MOPAR
- Teraflex adj front TB, EVO adj rear TB
- Teraflex 1" leveling spacer (counter my bumper/winch combo)
- AEV geo correction brackets
- Matched the shocks w/ a Fox steering stabilizer
- JKS quick discos (swaybar)

A few notes about my experience upgrading the suspension. I first tried the Rancho geo correction brackets and used the longer LCAs that came with the MOPAR kit. There was too much caster with that combo, so I recommend sticking with your stock LCAs if you do geo correction brackets. Also, I swapped my Rancho geo correction brackets for AEVs. I don't think there is a giant difference in their performance but the AEVs do look much better built, like something that would come from the factory. Yes, they are more expensive but if you are keeping this truck for a while I'd say buy once cry once, I recommend the AEV geo correction brackets. The sway discos help immensely offroad. There are many brands at varying price points. My JKS work fine but they can be a pain if you are not on level ground and you will grease up your hands.

WHEELS/TIRES
- AEV Salta XR 17x8.5 +25mm offset
- Toyo ATIII 35/11.5R17

The wheel fitment is perfect in my opinion. The tire sits right in line with the fender, does not poke out, and does not rub. I went with Toyo ATIII because they are C rated (didn't want a stiff ride), came in 11.5 (didn't want a wide tire daily driving), and 3peak winter certified (live in MN). They are louder than my previous KO2s but have been an excellent tire so far. The wheel/tire set up weighs in around 97lbs, only 3lbs per wheel/tire heavier than my old combo. I ran a quadratec hardrock wheel with +10mm offset and 285/70R17 KO2s prior to lifting the truck. It stuck out about 1"-1.5" past the fenders.

BEDRACK
- KBVoodoo crossbars
- BuiltRight utility rail

I went with this combo to mimic the MOPAR trail rail system, be used with a tonneau, and easily removable for access to the bed. Tent on top, gear in the bed.

MISC.
- AEV procal

For tire calibration and regearing. Simple, cheap, wont mess with the dealer.

FUTURE NEEDS
- regear 4.56
- LCA skids, diff skid

I am regearing to 4.56 after my last trip. On road and off it's clear the 6MT needs some taller gears to be efficient.

I know you have started your build, sorry for seeing this a little late. Hopefully it is still helpful and may help someone else in the future.

Looks great @RodRecket ! Will definitely consider switching over to your wheel/tire once I wear these out - would have preferred to keep them in tight. I'm about 3" out from under the fender now. Trying to figure out if rockblox or similar + a wider fender (looking at rugged ridge tube fenders) will help mitigate the mistakes i've already made

One question on your build - what drawbacks did you experience with having too much caster? Was it ride? Wear?

 

[RodRecket]

Looks great @RodRecket ! Will definitely consider switching over to your wheel/tire once I wear these out - would have preferred to keep them in tight. I'm about 3" out from under the fender now. Trying to figure out if rockblox or similar + a wider fender (looking at rugged ridge tube fenders) will help mitigate the mistakes i've already made

One question on your build - what drawbacks did you experience with having too much caster? Was it ride? Wear?

I didn't really notice anything while driving in the short amount of time between swapping LCAs but I know 7.3 degrees of caster (what I got with geo brackets and longer LCAs) is out of spec. I figure the specs are provided for a reason, plus the geo brackets are designed for stock length so it made sense to me to switch back to stock length.

 

[RodRecket]

Wrapped up first part of the build - pro comp 7069 wheels, 315 ko2s, mopar 2” lift with daystar leveling kit in the front. I added steer smart drag link and adjustable track bar in the front, Rancho geometry brackets, and rubicon express adjustable track bar in the back (all done with some serious help from friends and family - learned a ton but imminently doable with a good set of tools).
Next steps are to dremel off the bumper end pieces to get rid of rubbing, figure out what I’m gonna get to recalibrate the computer for the odometer/speedometer etc…(recommendations welcome), get some adjustable rear control arms to address the pinion angle (pretty surprised the mopar kit just leaves you at 4 degrees in the rear?!?), and adjust the front headlight angle, and upgrade the sway bar end links. I’ve got a deposit down on an RSI Smartcap which is supposed to show up in July (fingers crossed) - once it arrives I’m planning to rent a camp trailer for a weekend trip to North Carolina and see whether it feels like the investment to regear to 4.56 is warranted… but feels pretty good to get it sitting right and looking right!

BTW, nice job on the progress you've made so far, it looks awesome.

I forgot to mention I also installed a carrier bearing spacer. A cheap and easy install to help correct some rear geometry: Carrier Bearing Spacer

I discovered 4.56 gears are needed. DD you can get by but significant highways trips you'll want that last gear back and crawling at low speeds you want the torque back.

Headlight adjustment is pretty easy as well, MOPAR provides instructions with the lift instructions.

Might consider some protection for the rear bedsides and rocker panels.

Keep the mods coming, learning is part of the fun, though it can be expensive!

 

[leosky]

I am cheap, since I had this Ryobi one battery system for its fans and ratchet bought the compressor. It does ok getting me back to 30+ psi, then air up at a gas station

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...RjYoOcWIpR2dDpuZncEaAtljEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I just used the same compressor in Big Bend Park and had no issues with it at all.

 

[Orange01z28]

This is just a Rubicon take off suspension and a Teraflex leveling kit

I have Teraflex sway bar disconnects among some other stuff

I'm getting a 3.5 Rubicon Express lift in the next month or so

Black Rhino wheels with -24 offset and 35x12.5R17 Toyo MTs- I don't know if you'll want to stick out this far

 

[DocMike]

ARB TWIN.

Thanks for the advice! - I've got the rubicon express sway bar disconnect kit ready to install once I get a free afternoon. Any advice on best air compressor to go with?

 

[JTsGarage]

2020 Sport S 6MT (no max tow available w/ manual trans)

SUSPENSION
- 2" MOPAR
- Teraflex adj front TB, EVO adj rear TB
- Teraflex 1" leveling spacer (counter my bumper/winch combo)
- AEV geo correction brackets
- Matched the shocks w/ a Fox steering stabilizer
- JKS quick discos (swaybar)

A few notes about my experience upgrading the suspension. I first tried the Rancho geo correction brackets and used the longer LCAs that came with the MOPAR kit. There was too much caster with that combo, so I recommend sticking with your stock LCAs if you do geo correction brackets. Also, I swapped my Rancho geo correction brackets for AEVs. I don't think there is a giant difference in their performance but the AEVs do look much better built, like something that would come from the factory. Yes, they are more expensive but if you are keeping this truck for a while I'd say buy once cry once, I recommend the AEV geo correction brackets. The sway discos help immensely offroad. There are many brands at varying price points. My JKS work fine but they can be a pain if you are not on level ground and you will grease up your hands.

WHEELS/TIRES
- AEV Salta XR 17x8.5 +25mm offset
- Toyo ATIII 35/11.5R17

The wheel fitment is perfect in my opinion. The tire sits right in line with the fender, does not poke out, and does not rub. I went with Toyo ATIII because they are C rated (didn't want a stiff ride), came in 11.5 (didn't want a wide tire daily driving), and 3peak winter certified (live in MN). They are louder than my previous KO2s but have been an excellent tire so far. The wheel/tire set up weighs in around 97lbs, only 3lbs per wheel/tire heavier than my old combo. I ran a quadratec hardrock wheel with +10mm offset and 285/70R17 KO2s prior to lifting the truck. It stuck out about 1"-1.5" past the fenders.

BEDRACK
- KBVoodoo crossbars
- BuiltRight utility rail

I went with this combo to mimic the MOPAR trail rail system, be used with a tonneau, and easily removable for access to the bed. Tent on top, gear in the bed.

MISC.
- AEV procal

For tire calibration and regearing. Simple, cheap, wont mess with the dealer.

FUTURE NEEDS
- regear 4.56
- LCA skids, diff skid

I am regearing to 4.56 after my last trip. On road and off it's clear the 6MT needs some taller gears to be efficient.

I know you have started your build, sorry for seeing this a little late. Hopefully it is still helpful and may help someone else in the future.

Great build! I'm considering the same wheel/tire setup. Like you, I'm really digging the clean, within the fender look of the AEV wheels. My question is, the Salta XRs you have are they in matte black or onyx? I don't typically love the blacked out wheel look so I'm leaning more toward onyx but I wonder if it works with Sting Gray. In some photos the Onyx color almost appears to have an ever so slight green undertone. Pictures can be deceiving though.

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