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Steering wheel disassembly

MAustin

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I decided to paint the dash and steering wheel bezel to match the body of my Gladiator. There’s several really good videos and instructions on how to remove the dash, but not much for the steering wheel. I had a guy over in the JL forum give me a rough idea, but I figured I’d share a slightly more detailed write up. Disclaimer: I don’t remember what size each of the individual torx screws are, but they’re all either a 10, 15, or 20.

1. disconnect the battery and let sit for 30 minutes (since you’ll be playing with the airbag)

2. On the back of the steering wheel there is a small access panel on each side. Pop them open with a thin flathead and remove the 10mm bolt from each side.

2411589F-0178-4632-9F01-3DF29A430ED3.jpeg


3. Pull the horn/airbag away from the steering wheel. There are four plugs that need to be unplugged. The three center ones with yellow sheaths are color coded at the connection so you know where they go during reassembly. Use a flat head to pop the red piece up and remove. The other wire has two connectors that slide onto blades (can’t remember what these are called. I’m not an electrician by any means). Don’t try to figure out the actual plug on that one. You’ll just get frustrated and break it like I did. Pay attention to how the wires are run for reassembly. It’s a tight fit. Place the airbag aside.
03420BC3-617F-4664-A9C1-54121F07E037.jpeg


4. In the center of the wheel is a nut holding the steering wheel on. It should be a 24mm. Before you loosen it, disconnect the plug with the orange sheath that’s to the left of the nut. Once the nut is removed, give the steering wheel a sharp tug and it’ll come off. There’s a notch on the steering wheel and on the bolt for alignment when you reassemble. Again, note the placement of the wires before you move to the next step.
921AD6C7-FE64-4701-88CC-69192C116BA2.jpeg


5. On the back side of the steering wheel are eight torx screws. They’re all either 10, 15, or 20. Remove all of these. The four black ones are located around the center. Two small silver ones are on the bottom. The final two black ones are beside the radio controls under access panels similar to step one. Once removed, the steering wheel bezel will come out with the cruise control/voice control buttons still attached.
72626A44-1D1A-49CA-9356-253E71E21CDD.jpeg


6. On each side behind the controls are four small torx screws, three closer to the center of the wheel and one on the edge (I think all size 10). Remove these. Once removed, the controls can be pulled out. There is a little spacer on each side that might give you some trouble, but they just pull out once the controls are removed.
C942FC2C-3DDC-4BD8-8071-6E703B13AA88.jpeg


The bezel by itself will look like this.
5D7256E7-70AB-4A6E-BBC0-176FA3283258.jpeg


When reassembling, make sure all the wires are in the right spot before you start tightening things. You’ve got to tighten the torx screws a lot to get the bezel to seat all the way back into the steering wheel. The nut that holds the steering wheel on had red paint at the top on mine. I tightened it until the paint was back on top. When putting the horn/airbag back on, don’t tighten the bolts too much or your horn will stay on.

This was my final result:
C1DBFE0A-2BF6-4F72-9533-0E20A380A9DF.jpeg
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ZTMAN

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Looks nice.

You should sign up for the bomb squad.
 

steffen707

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I decided to paint the dash and steering wheel bezel to match the body of my Gladiator. There’s several really good videos and instructions on how to remove the dash, but not much for the steering wheel. I had a guy over in the JL forum give me a rough idea, but I figured I’d share a slightly more detailed write up. Disclaimer: I don’t remember what size each of the individual torx screws are, but they’re all either a 10, 15, or 20.

1. disconnect the battery and let sit for 30 minutes (since you’ll be playing with the airbag)

2. On the back of the steering wheel there is a small access panel on each side. Pop them open with a thin flathead and remove the 10mm bolt from each side.

2411589F-0178-4632-9F01-3DF29A430ED3.jpeg


3. Pull the horn/airbag away from the steering wheel. There are four plugs that need to be unplugged. The three center ones with yellow sheaths are color coded at the connection so you know where they go during reassembly. Use a flat head to pop the red piece up and remove. The other wire has two connectors that slide onto blades (can’t remember what these are called. I’m not an electrician by any means). Don’t try to figure out the actual plug on that one. You’ll just get frustrated and break it like I did. Pay attention to how the wires are run for reassembly. It’s a tight fit. Place the airbag aside.
03420BC3-617F-4664-A9C1-54121F07E037.jpeg


4. In the center of the wheel is a nut holding the steering wheel on. It should be a 24mm. Before you loosen it, disconnect the plug with the orange sheath that’s to the left of the nut. Once the nut is removed, give the steering wheel a sharp tug and it’ll come off. There’s a notch on the steering wheel and on the bolt for alignment when you reassemble. Again, note the placement of the wires before you move to the next step.
921AD6C7-FE64-4701-88CC-69192C116BA2.jpeg


5. On the back side of the steering wheel are eight torx screws. They’re all either 10, 15, or 20. Remove all of these. The four black ones are located around the center. Two small silver ones are on the bottom. The final two black ones are beside the radio controls under access panels similar to step one. Once removed, the steering wheel bezel will come out with the cruise control/voice control buttons still attached.
72626A44-1D1A-49CA-9356-253E71E21CDD.jpeg


6. On each side behind the controls are four small torx screws, three closer to the center of the wheel and one on the edge (I think all size 10). Remove these. Once removed, the controls can be pulled out. There is a little spacer on each side that might give you some trouble, but they just pull out once the controls are removed.
C942FC2C-3DDC-4BD8-8071-6E703B13AA88.jpeg


The bezel by itself will look like this.
5D7256E7-70AB-4A6E-BBC0-176FA3283258.jpeg


When reassembling, make sure all the wires are in the right spot before you start tightening things. You’ve got to tighten the torx screws a lot to get the bezel to seat all the way back into the steering wheel. The nut that holds the steering wheel on had red paint at the top on mine. I tightened it until the paint was back on top. When putting the horn/airbag back on, don’t tighten the bolts too much or your horn will stay on.

This was my final result:
C1DBFE0A-2BF6-4F72-9533-0E20A380A9DF.jpeg
this is such a nice result. thanks for taking the time to write up the how/to.
 
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MAustin

MAustin

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this is such a nice result. thanks for taking the time to write up the how/to.
No problem! Sorry for the crappy photos. I was using them so I didn’t forget how everything went together. I didn’t think about doing a DIY until later.
 

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rvillano8188

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So quick question, how did you decide color? Did you straight up paint it using mopar paint? Plastidip?

I'm Punk'n, so I want to get as close to the same color as possible.
 
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MAustin

MAustin

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So quick question, how did you decide color? Did you straight up paint it using mopar paint? Plastidip?

I'm Punk'n, so I want to get as close to the same color as possible.
I used the Mopar color match rattle can. However, I didn’t want the shine, so I did a flat clear coat over top. It’s the same color, but not as shiny as the outside. This pic kinda shows the difference in shine.
Jeep Gladiator Steering wheel disassembly 4C903CA1-2F55-4EDF-9CD3-9714E2956E6A
 

Puttyandnapalm

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Thoughts on the krylon fusion all in one? Says it’s good for plastic with no sanding/primer. The patriotic blue would match my hydro I think...
 
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MAustin

MAustin

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Thoughts on the krylon fusion all in one? Says it’s good for plastic with no sanding/primer. The patriotic blue would match my hydro I think...
I used it for the black on my a/c bezels and it’s holding up well. I’d definitely recommend considering the mopar color match spray paint from the dealer to get the perfect match. It’s a little pricy, but one can is sufficient if you use primer first.
 

BreakFixRepeat

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I used it for the black on my a/c bezels and it’s holding up well. I’d definitely recommend considering the mopar color match spray paint from the dealer to get the perfect match. It’s a little pricy, but one can is sufficient if you use primer first.
What brand primer and clear did you use? I just found this thread and have to say that your stuff looks amazing. Im looking to follow suit for my punkin. So glad you posted this.
 

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MAustin

MAustin

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What brand primer and clear did you use? I just found this thread and have to say that your stuff looks amazing. Im looking to follow suit for my punkin. So glad you posted this.
Thanks! I used Dupli-color scratch filler primer and Krylon Flat Crystal Clear. If you want it to match the body spot on, I’d go with a gloss clear coat, but I was worried about glare from the sun.
Jeep Gladiator Steering wheel disassembly 8A8B83AD-6C7F-40ED-8E36-BA43F924CCD2
 
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MAustin

MAustin

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Thanks for posting. Followed this thread and watched the CJ off-road video and knocked it out in a weekend.
went with off the shelf duplicolor, I do kind of wish I went for the mopar color match though...

Jeep Gladiator Steering wheel disassembly CE860803-4AED-44FD-98A1-C294F131D826
That blue looks awesome!
 

eaglerugby04

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Thanks! I used Dupli-color scratch filler primer and Krylon Flat Crystal Clear. If you want it to match the body spot on, I’d go with a gloss clear coat, but I was worried about glare from the sun.
Jeep Gladiator Steering wheel disassembly CE860803-4AED-44FD-98A1-C294F131D826
Is this the same kit you used when you painted the dash? Think I might take on painting the dash this weekend. Decided its time for the red dash to go.
 
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MAustin

MAustin

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Is this the same kit you used when you painted the dash? Think I might take on painting the dash this weekend. Decided its time for the red dash to go.
Yep, did them both at the same time.
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